1Z power steering fluid

Adding fluids to my newly rebuilt car. needed power steering fluid. Didn't find anything marked CHF115 or 202. Bought a bottle that said "specifically for VW and AUDI, TL 521.46" Is this good for my B4 with 1Z?

Also, do I just pour it in? Does the system need to be "burped"?

It’s really easy to flush your system. Get a few rubber bands, a latex glove, or an in ear foam plug and a plastic bag. You need a few feet of hose too to connect to the existing.

Suck all the fluid out of the tank with a baster or something.
Now take the hose off the bottom, then plug the nipple on the tank with an ear plug in a sandwich bag or something. Now connect a hose to that hose and put the end of your new length of hose into a clear bottle. Now top off the tank with new fluid. Now go in the car and turn lock to lock 10 times each so 20 total. now check the tank, fill up and repeat and empty the clear bottle each time, once the bottle is full with the same color as the new, you’re done, suck out the tank into a clean bottle and connect your hose, now fill it back up and you’re done.

Do NOT run the engine when doing this, you will lodge air bubbles in it bad and takes forever to get out.
And quite honestly any fluid will work fine. You’re supposed to use the proper stuff as the generic or non-compliant stuff will cause a steering rack leak over time.


And you cant find it cause its CHF11S not 5 (S) as in sam
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-Hydraulic-Fluid-CHF11S-1405116/dp/B002WTHW26

Thanks. It's a totally new rebuild, so no fluids in the car at all. The "5" was a typo But there was no mention of 202 or 11s on any bottle. Figured since the one I bought said it was especially for VW, it should work.
Since no fluids are in the car, can I just pour it in the little green bottle?

lisab4 said:

Thanks. It's a totally new rebuild, so no fluids in the car at all. The "5" was a typo But there was no mention of 202 or 11s on any bottle. Figured since the one I bought said it was especially for VW, it should work.
Since no fluids are in the car, can I just pour it in the little green bottle?

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yea, but your lines have fluid in them and so does the rack, you still need to do as i described, unless you have a new rack and new lines

Everything overhauled The car was completely taken apart till the last screw. Rack was rebuilt, lines treated for rust on the outside. Had only a few drops come out when I re-installed everything.

Sounds like you are nearing the moment of truth on this rebuild. I've been watching your progress with interest and look forward to seeing the finished product.

just dump the fluid in and turn the wheel about 50 times or so until you stop reducing the fluid in the res. suck some out so its at the right line and then turn it another 50 times, 25 in each direction. to make sure you got all the air out.

Care to post a link to your build, i was unaware you were doing one or im just forgetting!

Thanks for the advice! here's my build thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=443211
Moment of truth is indeed coming. Slowly though, as I have way too little time. Hope to start the engine in less then a month. And then it's 95% finished, 95% to go

no lisa dont start that engine, not yet! hold on-!

ok so your not starting motor. before you turn motor over, and have P/S system drained. 'fill' reservoir.<. with p/s belt off, turn P/S pulley, yes by hand, a few times, if you dont prime the P/S system a good chance, by starting a motor the pump will run dry. just long enough to cause trouble, prime first, then esp on a level surface, like the concrete pad i like for level things. turn wheel one side to the other, dont run fluid in reservoir low. later keep an eye on level. warm up and run around/check.

As sort of indicated above, the system will self burp air.

With everything assembled, fill the reservoir to the full line and cycle the steering wheel back and forth several times. Recheck the reservoir level and top up as needed.

Repeat the above 4-5 times until the reservoir level no longer drops.

*When you are ready on the engine side of things*

Start the engine, and do the same - cycling the rack back and forth several times. Air in the system will aerate/foam. shut the car off and let the foam in the reservoir settle. Top up to the full line as needed.

Repeat the above a couple times and you should be good to go.

Thanks!!

Fill the system, start the car, turn the wheel lock to lock several times and check fluid level and add if necessary to bring level up to mark in the bottle.

It's really no more difficult than that.

Steve

steve, im sure you want to prime the pump some, starting the motor with out will almost certainly run the pump while dry. with belt off you want to turn pump pulley over by hand a few times, then do that. while make sure you check level, if it goes down too far, problems.

iluvmydiesels said:

steve, im sure you want to prime the pump some, starting the motor with out will almost certainly run the pump while dry. with belt off you want to turn pump pulley over by hand a few times, then do that. while make sure you check level, if it goes down too far, problems.

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If it's a dry system the most I would care to do is to pre-fill the pump before attaching the lines. If you want to turn the pump pulley by hand go for it but I don't think it really makes that big of a difference.

My system was empty and one line was replaced and I may have pre-filled the pump before starting the car, I just don't remember. It would certainly not hurt anything if you did turn the pulley by hand but I'm not sure that you will do very much that way, it kind of takes a reasonable RPM to move the fluid.

Steve

Steve Addy said:

It would certainly not hurt anything if you did turn the pulley by hand but I'm not sure that you will do very much that way, it kind of takes a reasonable RPM to move the fluid.

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im not sure that statement is true. whats true about that is to get pressure, and flow. for one thats not the point of this. for another, you have system drained, or dry, by filling the reservoir your assuming fluid will fill the rack. the bottom of the reservoir has 2 hoses, one is the return from the rack, i cannt say from just filling bottle that a whole lot of fluid gets to the rack, it may. the other hose will go to the pump. any fluid will stop there, at the pump. by turning pulley we get fluid thru the pump, it will move, and the pump is designed, like pumps are, if fluid is there it will move(some, thru it). now like some have smartly suggested, by turning steering(stop to stop a good few times), before starting up, you can purge a good amount of air, now check level, top off. on start up (check level 1st)again turn wheel, again a good few times from stop to stop, and etc. <that means check fluid level, your now ready to warm her up. again, after check level again. you should be ok.

Got it filled. No leaks so far! Will turn the wheel a few times when the drive shafts are installed and it's up on a bridge. Don't want to put a lot of stress on the steering rack without shafts.

The pump moves a ton of fluid too fast for my liking, so for purging and filling I prefer to rotate the pump by hand a few times before firing it up. It will still move the fluid easily when turning it by hand.