P13D8 fault code help needed

My 2010 JSW threw this code today. This is the first MIL I have seen on this car. The car runs normally. I have about 70K miles. Here is the VCDS log:

Address 01: Engine (CJA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 019 CL HW: 03L 906 022 TS
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 7966
Revision: 12H03--- Serial number:
Coding: 0050072
Shop #: WSC 08201 444 13892
VCID: 77D3306C062B4AA0106
2 Faults Found:
005080 - Cylinder 4 Internal Pressure Sensor
P13D8 - 000 - Short to Ground - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 111574 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2096.14.22
Time: 05:14:20
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1012 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Bin. Bits: 00001110
Absolute Pres.: 16.0 bar
(no units): 10.10
Ign. Timing: 0.0 °BTDC
(no units): 6.00
005081 - Cylinder 4 Internal Pressure Sensor
P13D9 - 000 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 111574 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2096.14.22
Time: 05:15:20
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1725 /min
Speed: 46.0 km/h
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Absolute Pres.: 64.0 bar
(no units): -12.80
Ign. Timing: 0.0 °BTDC
(no units): 5.60
Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0

The MIL cleared itself today. I had removed the plug to the #4 injector and plugged it back in. Not sure that had anything to do with the code clearing. Does anyone have experience with this code?

MIL on Friday and cleared Saturday. Now that the weekend is over, it is back again. I haven't checked yet to see if it is the same code but, likely, it is. I guess I need a trip to the dealer

The cylinder pressure sensor is in the glowplug, but I guess you know that. Are you still under warranty? If yes, take it to the dealer. If no, try swapping glowplugs from cylinders 3 and 4 (its pretty much impossible to swap the wires). It could be a bad glowplug or it could be the wiring to it. If you swap the glowplugs and the fault code moves to cylinder 3 - its a bad glowplug (not too difficult to replace and not too expensive). If the fault code stays on cylinder 4, it is a bad glowplug harness and replacing the glowplug is a waste of money.

Have Fun!

Don

69K miles and I do realize the pressure sensor is part of the injector.... does the emissions warranty cover this?

flylow2 said:

69K miles and I do realize the pressure sensor is part of the injector.... does the emissions warranty cover this?

Click to expand...

Its not in the injector, but in the glowplug (but I suspect this was a typo). I doubt if it is included in the emissions warranty, but it can't hurt to ask. You can order a new glowplug online for less than $85 (MSRP $115).
http://riversidevwparts.com/parts/2...ubgroup=DIESEL COMPONENTS&component=GLOW PLUG
or (a little more expensive, but closer to you)
http://keffervwparts.com/parts/2010...ubgroup=DIESEL COMPONENTS&component=GLOW PLUG

Have Fun!

Don

thanks.

Don - researching the glow plugs in my Bentley has me thinking, as you suggest, this is not difficult. I could not find, however, the cylinder order. Can you confirm for me that the #4 cylinder is the furthest cylinder on the passenger side?

flylow2 said:

Don - researching the glow plugs in my Bentley has me thinking, as you suggest, this is not difficult. I could not find, however, the cylinder order. Can you confirm for me that the #4 cylinder is the furthest cylinder on the passenger side?

Click to expand...

I think that that is backwards. I believe that cylinder #1 is closest to the timing belt end (the passenger side) and cylinder #4 is closest to the transmission end. At least this is the way the injectors are numbered. Probably the easiest way to tell for sure woould be to unplug the glow plug closest to the timing belt end (passenger side) and try to start the engine. Then read the fault code and see if it says Cylinder 1 now or if only mentions cylinder 4.

Have Fun!

Don

The reference to the timing belt makes sense to me. I was thinking backwards because my acura integra passenger side cylinder was the #4 but the timing belt was on the drivers side so it makes perfect sense that the VW would be reversed since the timing belt is also reversed. Thanks again.

The reference to the timing belt makes sense to me. I was thinking backwards because my acura integra passenger side cylinder was the #4 but the timing belt was on the drivers side so it makes perfect sense that the VW would be reversed since the timing belt is also reversed. Thanks again.

JSWTDI09 said:

I believe that cylinder #1 is closest to the timing belt end (the passenger side) and cylinder #4 is closest to the transmission end.

Click to expand...

This is correct.

I haven't done those tests yet or replaced the glowplug but it is interesting to me that my fuel economy has increased. I can often get close to 48 mpg for the commute in the morning in the summer but never in the winter but I am seeing close to 48 now. The engine is also taking twice the distance to come up to temperature than I am accustomed to with the outside temperatures in mind. This contradicts the mileage experience. Strange.

Update - Now that I know what cylinder #4 is, I unplugged the glow plug and then plugged it back in. My code cleared on the next start and has remained off for multiple cycles now. Previously, when it cleared, it was for one or two cycles at most.

the code came back after the weekend and has not cleared since. I will be off to the dealer to pick up a glow plug. There isn't much in the bentley on this but it does seem pretty simple. 1/4" 10 mm deep socket and don't over torque. Do these CR glow plugs have the same or similar sensitivity to over torquing that I read about older TDIs? Is there any adaptation required or resetting needed with the VCDS?

Be very careful if they are similar to my glow plugs on my MKIII Jetta. I broke a glow plug trying to remove it since it had carbon build up that locked it in place. Once broken the extraction process can be hideous.

Some folks recommend using a 1/4" socket wrench to minimize the torque. Others even recommend a torque wrench and not going over a specific level when removing and installing the glow plugs....but this is on the MKIII and MKIV engines. Not sure if all this carries over to this platform but I'd assume it does and take the same approach.

thanks... this is precisely what I was worried about. I don't have a low range torque wrench but plan to buy one to facilitate this job. Hopefully being a 2010 and 70K miles, it is easy to remove.

I bought a low range torque wrench and I had no trouble getting the glow plug out. Prior to that though, I had a heck of a time blowing out some of the sound insulation that had fallen in the hole. I have a compressor and air gun and most of the material came out with the first blast. There was one stubborn piece that just swirled in a circle but would not come out. I tried using a straw and a vacuum cleaner and eventually I could no longer spot the insulation. It probably wouldn't have hurt anything if it fell in but I felt better getting it out.

This glow plug needs a 12 mm deep socket, not a 10 as was written in the Bentley. Also since there wasn't anything to hold the plug in the socket on removal, I used the protective cap on the connection end to help. I attached the new plug's protective cap onto the old glow plug. I then used the deep socket to unthread the plug. When I took out the socket, the plug remained in the engine well. You then use a needle nose pliers to grab the tab of the protective gap and pull out the glow plug. Installation of the new plug is the reverse of this. I put on the protective cap on the new glow plug and used the needle nose pliers to place the plug in the well. Then use the 12 mm deep socket with extension and hand thread the plug in. When completely tight by hand, torque the plug in. I used 132 inch pounds.

The CEL had just turned off prior to me replacing the plug so time will tell if this fixed the problem. It is a harness issue if it did not.

Thanks very much for posting your experiences on this flylow2. I suspect most of us do-it-yourselfers will be doing this eventually. I'm glad to hear the procedure went relatively smoothly.

I am convinced my car does not like Mondays. The CEL always illuminates on Mondays and today is no exception. The difference this time is it cleared on its own very quickly before I could hook up.

The same codes are being thrown. Does anyone know what is involved in the glowplug harness? Can I replace just the #4 cylinder glow plug wire?

I should have done this earlier as advised but I will do it now before concluding harness. I will exhchange the glow plug in question with another cylinder to see if the same code throws or a different one. I guess it is possible the new glow plug is bad in the same way as the one I replaced. It sounds highly unlikely but this is a cheap check.

Is it just a glowplug wire? I searched the part database, I see an engine harness, and it looks like the glowplug harness is in that. If it is the engine harness, well that's (probably) a big job, so I hope I'm wrong. It's probably the glowplug though, and moving the glowplug with tell you if it's the problem.

engine harness is all I can find in my searches as well. The picture of it does not look like it has the sockets that attach to the glow plugs so I am a bit suspicious that this may not be the right component needed.

#1 and #4 glow plugs were exchanged. Cleared all codes. 1 day later, the same code generates for #4 cylinder. Is this the harness I need to change out?

http://riversidevwparts.com/parts/2...leid=1445604&diagram=9279205&diagramCallOut=1

On the pic, I see what appears to be the injector plugs but I don't see the glow plug connectors.

Does anyone have experience with this? Does anyone know if there is a TSB on this problem?

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I just had this code pop up for me, and on cylinder #4. How did you end up making out with this?

At 142K, I still have the problem. It is intermittent so likely a harness issue. Doesn't seem to negatively affect anything.

Reviving this thread again....I had the check engine light on. Code is P13D7. Dealer estimate is around $2400.00. "diagnosed and found the engine harness and the glow plugs needing replacement due to a faulty connection at the glow plugs" 9 hours labor. Parts $1410.00. Yikes! Anyone else find a cheaper solution to this?