I just bought a 1997 VW Jetta with the 1.9L TDI engine. It has 250,000 miles on it and I'm planning on rebuilding it. First off I've rebuilt several Gas engines but this will be my first Diesel engine rebuild. Will I NEED any special tools or can I make it work? Also I'm having trouble finding parts, can you use 2.0 engine parts in the 1.9? EBay seems to think so but I want to be sure before I spend the time and money. Any and all, helpful, advice is welcome. Thank you
Engine Rebuild Help
- Thread starter B0B C.
- Start date
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Off the cuff, a TDI is only halfway to a rebuild at 250k. Was there an event?
jokila
Vendor
To do the timing belt, yeah, probably. There are a number of triple square bolts used. Not torx so plan on buying accordingly.
And I agree with the previous post, 250K is just getting broken in. You didn't say it is broken, so don't fix what aint broke, as they say. Well, my father said that a lot to me when I was young.
And I agree with the previous post, 250K is just getting broken in. You didn't say it is broken, so don't fix what aint broke, as they say. Well, my father said that a lot to me when I was young.
Previous owner allowed an oil filter housing o-ring to leak for years so they routinely drove it with low oil. The whole thing smells burnt and it's ticking a lot. I'm only looking at 300 for everything to do the rebuild. Less if the 2.0 parts are compatible. Do you know if they are?
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Metal Man
Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2001
- Location
- Sunbury,PA 17801
- TDI
- 1998 NB TDI, 2006 Jetta TDI, 2014 Tiguan gas, , 2019 E Golf X2
Message me a list of parts you are looking for.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Just FYI, if it is "ticking" a lot, and you suspect hydraulic lifters not pumping up, it is most likely due to the lifter more in the head being worn out to the point that oil pressure normally routed into the hydraulic lash adjusting portion of the lifter is bleeding out around it. No amount of rebuilding will fix this. The head either needs to be replaced or the lifter bores will need to be bored out oversized and sleeved to bring the tolerance back to spec.
Been there. Done that. Spent a lot of time and money chasing this problem, now that I know what it is I know what needs to be done to properly fix it.
The lower end is probably fine EXCEPT I would want the I-shaft bearings inspected/replaced if necessary.
The AHU is in the same engine family as the ABA (the "2.0" you are likely thinking of), but they only share a handful of parts. The I-shaft bearings, main bearings, and main cap bolts as well as some cam/crank/I-shaft seals. That is about it.
The AHU is also notorious for tearing up the crank sprocket and crankshaft snout. There are some steps you can do to prevent this, and fix it if it has already happened. But I have seen some that the crankshaft was simply too far gone to fix, and needed to be replaced.
If you have in your head "$300 for everything to do the rebuild" you are going to be sorely disappointed, and you should probably not even attempt anything at all and move it along to someone else.
Been there. Done that. Spent a lot of time and money chasing this problem, now that I know what it is I know what needs to be done to properly fix it.
The lower end is probably fine EXCEPT I would want the I-shaft bearings inspected/replaced if necessary.
The AHU is in the same engine family as the ABA (the "2.0" you are likely thinking of), but they only share a handful of parts. The I-shaft bearings, main bearings, and main cap bolts as well as some cam/crank/I-shaft seals. That is about it.
The AHU is also notorious for tearing up the crank sprocket and crankshaft snout. There are some steps you can do to prevent this, and fix it if it has already happened. But I have seen some that the crankshaft was simply too far gone to fix, and needed to be replaced.
If you have in your head "$300 for everything to do the rebuild" you are going to be sorely disappointed, and you should probably not even attempt anything at all and move it along to someone else.
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The 300 is for known needed rebuild parts and fluids. I have done gas motors before and I understand that no plan survives for long during a rebuild. Thank you for the info on the lifters, I will definitely check all specs regarding them. Will the head gasket and oil pump for the 2.0 fit on the 1.9?
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fatmobile
Veteran Member
Soo it's a whole car that runs?
Have you checked the oil pressure?
I don't have alot of experience with these but have read
they have an intermediate shaft just like the1.6s.
They do go before 250 and can cause low oil pressure.
Might cause ticking.
Swap in new ones and see what happens.
Have you checked the oil pressure?
I don't have alot of experience with these but have read
they have an intermediate shaft just like the1.6s.
They do go before 250 and can cause low oil pressure.
Might cause ticking.
Swap in new ones and see what happens.
Intermediate Shaft got it. Yes it's a whole car that runs. I WANT to rebuild the engine for the experience and knowledge that once I do start to use it for my everyday vehicle it's not going to let me down
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Right now an all together, or mostly together, rebuild kit so I know it all works for my engine. Main and cam bearings, rings, lifters, oil pump, all seals and gaskets. Already have a timing kit I plan to buy. I'll replace other parts and pieces after I check measurements.
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Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
On high mileage engines the front IM bearing can end up looking like this:
or this
particularly if the timing belt has been overtightened at some point. A major cause of low oil pressure.
I'd also recommend you track down an official Bentley shop manual... it's going to answer many of your upcoming questions, and you'll need it for proper torque values, sequences, etc.
It will, for instance, show you how the diesel head gasket comes in three specific sizes and is chosen based on measuring piston protrusion once the engine is back together.
It will also tell you the specific piston/cylinder clearance, which is much smaller than typical of gas engines and often ignored by machine shops that don't have diesel experience.
Thank you. I'll look for the manual but I have access to Mitchell Prodemand as wellOn high mileage engines the front IM bearing can end up looking like this:
or this
particularly if the timing belt has been overtightened at some point. A major cause of low oil pressure.
I'd also recommend you track down an official Bentley shop manual... it's going to answer many of your upcoming questions, and you'll need it for proper torque values, sequences, etc.
It will, for instance, show you how the diesel head gasket comes in three specific sizes and is chosen based on measuring piston protrusion once the engine is back together.
It will also tell you the specific piston/cylinder clearance, which is much smaller than typical of gas engines and often ignored by machine shops that don't have diesel experience.
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Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
All good. Rebuilding is fun... just a few specifics that are important.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
The ALH head gasket is its own thing, and there is a choice of three different ones, depending on how far out of the block the pistons come. The thicknesses are different, and indicated by marks in the gasket.
MOD should have all of this info (I have that too, although it is nowhere near as good as something like the official stuff or even the Bentley).
MOD should have all of this info (I have that too, although it is nowhere near as good as something like the official stuff or even the Bentley).
CoolAirVw
Vendor
Thats exactly what my 1.6L MF IDI balance shaft bearing looked like. I had low oil pressure but no symptoms.
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Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
Ah, the memories, huh? IDI engines had a certain charm... until you needed to change the glow plug behind the IP.
IDI engines had a certain charm... until you needed to change the glow plug behind the IP.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Ah, the memories, huh?
And the '89+ ones with altitude compensation pumps were even worse. Amazingly, my '91 only had two plug failures in 437k miles, but in both cases I just replaced all four. And since there was no OBD, your only clue that one died was a miss after cold start for a few seconds until the heat from the adjacent cylinder(s) spread over to the one with the dead plug.
CoolAirVw
Vendor
with Me, vince waldon and fatmobile in this thread, this is like a reunion of vwdieselparts.com/forum. where is Libbybapa?
if any others were there sorry I didn't remember.
if any others were there sorry I didn't remember.
CoolAirVw
Vendor
Idi diesels are the perfect Post-apocalypse car. No computer so it will survive EMP. Less fuel needed because they are incredibly fuel efficient. And a bit of farming and knowledge and you can produce and run it on biodiesel after infrastructure breaks down.
Someone told me I could boost the HP by doing an EGR delete. Is this correct? And or worth it? Pros and cons please. I'll have my hands on the car this weekend. Based on all the information y'all have given me I'm going to do a partial rebuild (timing, IM shaft bearing, main bearings, etc.) I'll leave the head attached unless I HAVE to take it off.
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flee
Veteran Member
Not correct, although I'm not familiar with the details of your engine.
This might change when you do a lot of breathing and fueling mods.
anya.kuhi9
New member
Less fuel needed because they are incredibly fuel efficient. And a bit of farming and knowledge and you can produce and run it on biodiesel after infrastructure breaks down.
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Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
If you're talking about the serpentine belt, yes; the spring-loaded black pulley at the end of the L-shaped metal rod, above the alternator pulley in your picture.
If you're talking about the timing belt, yes; a spring-loaded temperature-compensated pulley behind the timing belt cover.
If you're talking about the timing belt, yes; a spring-loaded temperature-compensated pulley behind the timing belt cover.
Margaretady
New member
Constantly accelerating and braking only wastes fuel and reduces your car's fuel consumption. So, whenever possible, coast and avoid burning excess fuel. This takes a little practice but can be a great way to increase the fuel economy of your vehicle.
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
I'm in the middle of an ahu rebuild. They're not that hard to do, but your price of $300 is probably with Chinese parts. I got a lower end kit from id-parts with good parts, it was $500 or so. A head rebuild kit is another $300 or so. Add in the machining...
And the intermediate shaft bearings should be replaced, but they are a real pain to do. I actually ended up ruining the first set when I replaced them, then I made my own tool using an old shaft from a 1.6idi.
The oil pump from the ABA is not the same, I know that because one part vendor sent me the wrong one.
One more thing, avoid Hans auto parts, rothenberger enterprises, "prothe" or any of the other aliases for the same rip off cheap part vendor. Use the search function on this forum and you can see his other aliases.
There's also a list of trusted TDI parts vendors on here. I'd maybe suggest talking to Frank06. He's done a bunch of them.
And the intermediate shaft bearings should be replaced, but they are a real pain to do. I actually ended up ruining the first set when I replaced them, then I made my own tool using an old shaft from a 1.6idi.
The oil pump from the ABA is not the same, I know that because one part vendor sent me the wrong one.
One more thing, avoid Hans auto parts, rothenberger enterprises, "prothe" or any of the other aliases for the same rip off cheap part vendor. Use the search function on this forum and you can see his other aliases.
There's also a list of trusted TDI parts vendors on here. I'd maybe suggest talking to Frank06. He's done a bunch of them.