Inside the HPFP

2004LB7 · Jan 3, 2014

thats pretty neat.

do you have to use bolts with nuts to install the pump since this new one doesn't have threaded bolt holes like the original?

2micron · Jan 3, 2014

2004LB7 said:
thats pretty neat.

do you have to use bolts with nuts to install the pump since this new one doesn't have threaded bolt holes like the original?

Yes, right on LB7! .
- 5/16"x 4-1/4" x 2pcs.
- 5/16"x 2" x 1pc.
- 5/16" nylock nuts x 3pcs!!!!!
Washers too!!!!!

.

.
All the best!!
Andrew

DPM · Jan 3, 2014

why not metric fasteners?

2004LB7 · Jan 3, 2014

wouldn't split beam nuts or elliptical offset nuts be a better choice then the nylon ones? nylon seams to get a little soft at elevated temperatures like what may be found in the engine bay or right at the HPFP

why not metric fasteners?

2x, on the metric fasteners. now i am going to have to buy a whole new set of wrenches to install one

2004LB7 · Jan 3, 2014

what about tapping the HPFP and installing larger fasteners? is there room on the bracket with the pump pulley and belt for larger bolts without drilling out the bracket?

2micron · Jan 3, 2014

DPM said:
why not metric fasteners?

Sure, If you must!!!.
- 8mm X 110mm x2pcs.
- 8mm X 50mm x1pcs.
Good comments on the nuts,
The 5/16" fasteners shown are more common and just happen to be available in my box of junk!!!!
Andrew

GoFaster · Jan 3, 2014

If this is something you want to sell, please use metric fasteners. Mixed fasteners on a vehicle - or any machine - drives me bonkers and I know I'm not alone in that.

vipmike · Jan 3, 2014

New Bosch Common Rail High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) for 10-11 Golf, 11-12 Jetta, 09-12 Audi Q5. Fits 2.0 TDI Engines Only.

This Part was manufactured by a factory that is a supplier to an international VW Car Factory. This qualifies the part is an OEM Part (Original Equipment Manufacturer) for the VW group. In some cases, this fact might qualify the part as an OES, OE or Genuine VW Part, but this part should not be considered an official Genuine Volkswagen OE Part or an OEM part for your particular car.

Part Number: 03L130755F 0445010523
Weight: 5
Price: $540.00

Short Product Description:

03L130755F High Pressure Fuel Pump (Bosch Part)

bhutchins · Jan 3, 2014

2004LB7 said:
what about tapping the HPFP and installing larger fasteners? is there room on the bracket with the pump pulley and belt for larger bolts without drilling out the bracket?

or install helicoil's, always half dozen ways to engineer anything

GoFaster said:
If this is something you want to sell, please use metric fasteners. Mixed fasteners on a vehicle - or any machine - drives me bonkers and I know I'm not alone in that.

then it would match the factory mix on my '01 chevy truck

kjclow · Jan 4, 2014

My 82 S-10 had metric lug nuts with a standard lug wrench. Had some nice rounding on the edges after 100k + miles before the front seal failed and poured oil all over the garage floor.

TDI2000Zim · Jan 25, 2014

2004LB7 said:
here is another idea, my favorite alloy to the rescue...

Tungsten Carbide, or more correctly "cemented tungsten carbide". i have a carbide rod that is 10mm x 100mm. fits the roller shoe just as well as the original roller. i just need to get my hands on a diamond cut off wheel to trim it down to size

slides in smoothly like the original roller

now if there was a way of making the shoe out of tungsten carbide and perhaps the cam too. now that would make a bullet proof HPFP

do you think it is worth cutting out a few rollers out of this rod?

Wouldn't the tungsten carbide roller wear down quickly the softer steel cam lobes?

To make the wear even, the pump cam lobes must be the same material, imho.

As a side question, is the CP4.2 Pump a two-stage pressurization pump, or a double volume flow pump?

apples12 · Feb 10, 2014

Hi all

Just wondering what everyones thoughts on this might be:

I have a 2.0tdiCR mk6 golf with the CBAB engine, it was in the dealership today to have its turbo actuator replaced. Whilst it was there I had them take a look at a 'ticking' / 'buzzing' sound coming from the HPFP area - the master tech came out with me to the car and had a look, he commented it was the fuel pressure regulation valve.

This valve can be had for a little over £80 in the UK.

Is it likely to be the fuel pressure regulation valve or will it be something else?

regards

2004LB7 · Feb 10, 2014

sounds like it to me

this valve is a solenoid and is controlled by varying electrical pulses. the buzzing is likely from the ECM trying to move the valve and it is not cooperating perfectly

storx · Feb 19, 2014

So.. when are we getting this thing on a car???

Also when installing the new HPFP, is there a set point the camshaft should be timed to during install??

DPM · Feb 20, 2014

what does your manual say?

DPM · Feb 20, 2014

what does your manual say?

storx · Feb 20, 2014

DPM said:
what does your manual say?

who are you referring to?

DPM · Feb 20, 2014

you, storx. The OE pump needs timed (which was news to me!), I just wondered whether you knew that.

As for this twin-piston jobbie, you're gonna have to get your calculator out and work out how the angle between the two heads affects the loading on the belt and the filling of the rail wrt crank position.

storx · Feb 20, 2014

That is why I asked the question....in regards to the fuel camshaft

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

2004LB7 · Feb 22, 2014

as a side note to the latest ramblings, i took my spare pump parts down to a local shop and had them apply an Aluminum-Chromium-Silicon (#11 nACRo in the chart) vapor deposited coating on the parts. they claim that this is the highest wearing coating available that they can do. i dont know if it will help prolong the life of the pump parts but it was $50 so i thought i would give it a try.

and the coated parts. i don't know how well you can see the coating as it is a gray coating.

i tried rubbing the surface of the cam with some 1200 grit silicon carbide sand paper and it justs slides over the surface without seeming to do anything to it.

what do you guys think? worth it?

2004LB7 · Feb 22, 2014

PS: i did not coat the roller shoe

kjclow · Feb 24, 2014

2004LB7 said:
what do you guys think? worth it?

No way to really tell unless you get a failure or you're willing to run gasoline through it to see what happens. If it gives you some peace of mind, then, yes, it was worth it.

2004LB7 · Feb 24, 2014

kjclow said:
No way to really tell unless you get a failure or you're willing to run gasoline through it to see what happens.

thats what i was thinking. looks like i need to rig up a bench test setup and run this thing with an electric motor and see what it can tolerate

storx · Feb 26, 2014

Can any of you guys help me out on the torque spec of each bolt on the CP4.2, I am ready to put mine on and need to check it out internally before i go slapping it on without knowing the internals...

Also has anyone figured out how we would go about properly timing this pump on the motor? are there timing marks that line up already?

bloc · Mar 22, 2014

bhutchins said:
fuel lines waiting to be formed for nearly $350 from highpressure.com (for 2 sets)

We used to build these in a lab I worked in.. really not that difficult, and the tooling didn't seem crazy expensive either. A pretty nice small diameter pipe bender, jaws for a vice to hold the pipe without crimping, and a special reverse thread tap & guide. It wouldn't surprise me if you could get all of the tools for less than you paid for the lines.

One potential issue I imagine is the ID of the 1/4" (i think) lines was quite small.. granted these were 40k psi lines.. but still. From memory it seems smaller than the ID of the lines on my ALH. (haven't had the lines off the CJAA just yet)

bloc · Mar 22, 2014

storx said:
I wander if we could create a kit so you can just check the roller from time to time and replace it once it starts to show wear....

To piggyback onto this, from what I see in this thread it seems relatively easy (hardest part would be assuring cleanliness) to pull the HP head and plunger with the pump body still on a CR car and look for wear. I understand that wear is exponential, and if you notice much, you are probably already up the creek.. but just as an option?

Am I wrong in thinking this wouldn't be too difficult?

2004LB7 · Mar 23, 2014

bloc said:
To piggyback onto this, from what I see in this thread it seems relatively easy (hardest part would be assuring cleanliness) to pull the HP head and plunger with the pump body still on a CR car and look for wear. I understand that wear is exponential, and if you notice much, you are probably already up the creek.. but just as an option?

Am I wrong in thinking this wouldn't be too difficult?

i have already done this on mine, not hard at all. hardest part was getting it reprimed. used VCDS to run the in-tank & aux pump but it still wouldn't start. get it started with ether and everything was fine.

the problem will be that if the roller is bad then the cam will likely be too. not an easy fix with a little kit but it will tell you how your HPFP is doing and if it will need to be replaced soon before it takes out the injectors, etc.

bloc · Mar 23, 2014

2004LB7 said:
not an easy fix with a little kit but it will tell you how your HPFP is doing and if it will need to be replaced soon before it takes out the injectors, etc.

That is exactly what I had in mind..

If someone had to replace a pump, do you think those coatings are worth looking at for the roller and cam? Any idea how they would interact with whatever coating is on the shoe?

2004LB7 · Mar 24, 2014

bloc said:
That is exactly what I had in mind..

Any idea how they would interact with whatever coating is on the shoe?

i dont know what the shoe coating is, looks to be an oxide coating, so i have no clue how they will play together

bloc · Mar 24, 2014

Do we know if you can buy a cam/roller/shoe kit separate, and it be more cost effective than buying a complete pump? Having just bought a 20k mile car I'd kinda like to start fresh on the most suspect parts of the pump. No idea what fuel the previous owners used. I'll probably pull the pump head in the next few months just to satisfy curisosity.

Edit: I contacted a shop I've worked with in the past. Bosch will sell the control solenoid but not internals.

Inside the HPFP

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