Help ! Injector Pump Seal Leaks

marvins_dad

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2002
Location
Dallas, TX
TDI
New Beetle, 2002, Cyber Green
Middle seal successfully changed, but I still have a leak out of the right side.
Not sure I was ever successfull with the VAG settings...seems like my setup kept erroring out on me while the engine was running, so I can't trust the numbers....but it sounds like it is running really smooth.

Gonna take it to a local Bosch cert. shop next week to get them to look at the other seals.:(
 

lupin..the..3rd

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2004
Location
USA
TDI
Passat B4 1996
marvins_dad said:
Middle seal successfully changed, but I still have a leak out of the right side.
Not sure I was ever successfull with the VAG settings...seems like my setup kept erroring out on me while the engine was running, so I can't trust the numbers....but it sounds like it is running really smooth.

Gonna take it to a local Bosch cert. shop next week to get them to look at the other seals.:(
If it's more than a little bit off, vag-com will simply read 0.00 for mg/s injection quantity (ask me how I know ;)). Just keep tapping one way or the other until it starts to register. It took me a few tries to get it just right.

For the seal, are you sure you inserted it correctly? Both the middle and top seal are "keyed" so that they fit into the groove one way only. If after changing the seal, it's still leaking, I would think either the seal isn't installed properly, or maybe you forgot to tighten all the bolts?

Just tossing ideas out there...
 

Howler

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2000
Location
Planet Earth
TDI
'10 Touareg TDI
OK, I got the leaky fuel pump outta the car in 3 hours. Now I find that I need to replace the 2" section of hose from the water pump to a "T" fitting that has had diesel fuel leaked onto it for a while. Anybody got a part number for this hose or any comments on whether I can just use some stock hose from a nearby shop?
 

Beowulf

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2000
Location
Lovettsville, VA, USA
TDI
A3 Jetta, 1998, Green
Howler said:
OK, I got the leaky fuel pump outta the car in 3 hours. Now I find that I need to replace the 2" section of hose from the water pump to a "T" fitting that has had diesel fuel leaked onto it for a while. Anybody got a part number for this hose or any comments on whether I can just use some stock hose from a nearby shop?
This should be what you need (taken from an early post in this thread):

In reading some other posts, this seems to be the hose that is most frequently compromised by leaks from the injector pump. It's a 3-way hose that goes between the water pump, head, and oil cooler. If yours is damaged, the replacement hose is part # 028 121 053 Q. $20 from www.autohausaz.com (look here) or $90+ from the dealer :eek:.
 

mcquinn

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 22, 1999
Location
Maryland usa
TDI
2002 MK4 automatic Jetta
Ok, I've read this thread 5 or more times, printed it out, highlighted key areas...and I'm ready. 2 questions...should I remove the pump from the car? And mine seems to be leaking (dripping) way the heck down on the back side (below the middle seal seam)...will replacing the topseal, middle seal and pump head "O" ring solve this? Or should I remove it and replace every seal/part offered in the seal kit? All suggestions are appreciated.
 

mjanney

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
If you are just doing the top and middle seals, leave it in, it will go very quickly this way. The part you can't forget is to make the notch/scratch so you can perform the hammer mod adjustment
 
Last edited:

Beowulf

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2000
Location
Lovettsville, VA, USA
TDI
A3 Jetta, 1998, Green
mcquinn said:
Ok, I've read this thread 5 or more times, printed it out, highlighted key areas...and I'm ready. 2 questions...should I remove the pump from the car? And mine seems to be leaking (dripping) way the heck down on the back side (below the middle seal seam)...will replacing the topseal, middle seal and pump head "O" ring solve this? Or should I remove it and replace every seal/part offered in the seal kit? All suggestions are appreciated.
I've also written up the wisdom in this thread into a step by step how-to. If you're interested.
 

Howler

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2000
Location
Planet Earth
TDI
'10 Touareg TDI
I resealed my IP, reinstalled, set the IQ using the hammer to 4.8mg/R, and it works great. Its not as hard as it looks once you get the pump off the car with all the how-to's available. I wouldn't try the o-ring seal on the car, as the shim washer has a tendency to slip out of place.

One word of advice: have plenty of Q-tips, a dental pick and other cleaning tools on hand. Keep it clean.
 

mcquinn

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 22, 1999
Location
Maryland usa
TDI
2002 MK4 automatic Jetta
Done! Thank you to Mjanney, Beowulf, and Howler...you put in the last 3 pieces of my fuel pump puzzle. I needed someone to tell me to ignore the "o" ring for now. I did. Beowulf, I had printed out your how-to page weeks ago and I have it memorized...excellent. And finally, Howler, you pushed me to give it a try. After 300,000 miles I was worried that this was the end for my Passat. Now I'm good for another 300,000 :)

Suggestions to the next pump seal repair reader...be sure to download at least the free version of Vag-com (I thought I was pretty close by eye with my scribe marks...but the Vag com allowed me to tap it to 2.6). Be sure to buy both seals (they are different and notched different). And keep the work area clean.

Thanks to all the writers in this thread on fuel pump repair. Great work.
 

sccasper

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2003
Location
Pine Island, Fl.
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI,2005 Passat TDI Wagon
Beowulf said:
This should be what you need (taken from an early post in this thread):

In reading some other posts, this seems to be the hose that is most frequently compromised by leaks from the injector pump. It's a 3-way hose that goes between the water pump, head, and oil cooler. If yours is damaged, the replacement hose is part # 028 121 053 Q. $20 from www.autohausaz.com (look here) or $90+ from the dealer :eek:.
here is one for $12

CRP Part # 037122058
{Coolant Hose: Water Pump to Pipe to Oil Cooler }

$12.48$0.00$12.48
 

Ray_G

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Location
Tulsa
TDI
98 Jetta TDI
If the kits are the same for the euro pumps the Bosch kit number is: 2 467 010 003-000. It does not include the shaft seal. But has everything else. My recommendation is that if you are going to use dieselgeeks method of replacing the pump head seal then you should probably buy his viton pump head seal. If you are taking the head off the pump the one in the Bosch kit is fine. Last time I checked dieselgeek carried both the Bosch kit and the viton seals. If you can't find one over there (you should be able to) or if you can't get anyone to ship over the pond let me know, I will get one and ship it to you.
Welcome aboard. Oh and don't forget the metal nerd socket for the triangle head bolt Bosch uses to keep owners out of the pump!
Ray
 
Last edited:

Ray_G

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Location
Tulsa
TDI
98 Jetta TDI
I have no idea if they are the same or not. But if they are and the leak is high up in the injection quantity body you might be ok with just changing the IQ body seal and the cover seal. The pump head seal is under the part where the injection lines go into the pump. dieselgeek sells the individual IQ seals and the pump head seal separately. www.dieselgeek.com
My take is that once one set starts to the leak the others are not far behind. Also if your car has the same pump as the Passat in the USa you will need to find someone with a vagcom if you take the IQ body seal out. You will need it to check your IQ before you start, and then you will to set it after you are done.
Ray
 

Ray_G

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Location
Tulsa
TDI
98 Jetta TDI
Chaz,
You can do all of it in the car, assuming its only the IQ body, cover and pump head. To do the pump head in the car go to dieselgeek's website and look for the techincal information and there is a how to there. You basically take the lines off, loosen the head, put a longer screw in the head and then back the head out only enough to remove the oring, then when you put the new oring on you just stretch it over the pump head. Not ideal if you ask me, but it works. If you take the pump head off to change the oring you better be prepared to put the insides back together, and you will have to remove the pump. You need to put it back correctly or you will destroy your pump. Not exactly ideal either, but you can change all the external orings at that time if you have a Bosch kit and have removed the pump. Its up to you, both ways work. Beowulfs how to has all the different threads on all the different ways to do things here.
Beowulf's how to thread
A word of advice, skip the JB weld repair :)
Ray
 
Last edited:

Rich_N

New member
Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Location
Southampton, UK
TDI
Audi 80
Seal Kit

Hi Chaz,

Congratulations on sorting it out! Could you let me know where you got your seal kit for the tdi pump from?

Thanks

Rich
 

dauber

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2002
Location
Fresno
I also had the now classic injector pump leaking. Thanks to this thread, Beowulf and all that contributed I have replaced the top and middle seal. No leaks yet! My 3 way hose below the pump was in bad shape as well so I replaced both of the hoses that go to the oil cooler.

Is this really low sulfer or just cheap seals in the injectors?


I am crossing my fingers that the bottom O ring dosent start leaking.
 

jim_arndt

Active member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Location
S. California
TDI
97 Passat TDI
Is my IQ too low?

My IQ is 0.8 at idle, is this outside the normal range? I do notice my engine temperature is not up to operating temps yet, would this cause the IQ to read low?

I'll be replacing my upper and middle seals on my Injector Pump, I'll get another reading at normal engine temperatures as per the "Hammer Mod".

Just wondering if this could be an issue and if I should set the value higher after I replace my pump seals?


 

jollyGreenGiant

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2003
Location
MA
TDI
03 Golf TDI GLS ( my 5th TDI ), 03 Eurovan GLS - VR6 :(
WAY too low. Not a huge thing as long as the car is running OK but really should be brought back into spec range IMO, I think you'll find the engine will run smoother and you should gain some efficiency, this is assuming that the injectors are good as well as everything else.

When the engine is warmed up completely and with all electrical consumers off, set it to about 4. This is just what I would do, as indicated in the VAG-COM label file; spec is 3-9. The lower the number the more fuel injected, the higher performance, the more smoke if you've got mods or if the intake is dirty. If you aren't smoking at .8, try to ( you'll have to hammer it to make such a large adjustement, reset the VAG-COM adjustment to default first 32768 - if memory serves correct ) bring it to the lower side of spec ( 3 to 4 ).

When the engine is cold, typically you would see the displayed IQ to be higher... The fact that your engine RPM is 924 shows that something isn't all OK in TDI'sville as 903 is the target RPM and very rarely does an ECM have a hard time maintaining that, unless it's been raised through VAG-COM, the IQ is so high that the ECM is having a hard time maintaining idle.
 

jim_arndt

Active member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Location
S. California
TDI
97 Passat TDI
Thanks jollygreen,
I just checked it at operating temp, Injection quantity came up to 1.2, it did bounce down to 1.0 and also up to 1.4 at times... The idle looked good at 903 as you indicated.

I'll be replacing the seals this weekend (thanks dieselgeek) and will bring the IQ back up into the spec range.
Thanks for the help,
Jim
 

jim_arndt

Active member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Location
S. California
TDI
97 Passat TDI
I finally got around to replacing my upper two injector pump seals. My IQ was 1.2 before I replaced the seals, using the hammer-mod I ended up with an IQ of 4.4.

The engine may be a bit smoother at IQ 4.4, but it has definately lost a bit of performance. I'll watch the economy for a while (getting 38mpg right now), if the economy comes up a bit I may just keep the IQ where it is.

Oh, and I'll be replacing my 2nd coolant hose soon due to me taking so long to replace the IP seals....
 

jim_arndt

Active member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Location
S. California
TDI
97 Passat TDI
Here are my results so far of moving the IQ:

My observations:
IQ 1.2: Excellent power, 38MPG
IQ 4.4: Weak power, 42MPG, Car began entering Limp Mode
IQ 3.2: Good Power, pending MPG, No Limp Mode yet.
 

bxl

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2003
Location
Arizona
TDI
1998 Jetta, red
Injector pump seal job - Green Valley AZ - VAG-COM

I have a '98 TDI with 297K miles, and a badly leaking injection pump

I've read this post over 5 times now, and really need to get the seals replaced on my injection pump.. It's leaking quite badly - at least from the top and maybe both horizontal seals. Got a seal/rebuild kit from DieselGeek, along with the better side seal. I also finally found the metalnerd tool for the top triangular bolt (Here's a new link ...earlier links in this post did not work any more).
http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm
Part MN3001 - Specialty Socket for Triangular Head Bolts

Now, all I think I need is a VAG-COM. From what I've read in this forum, and found on the web, it's pricey, and there's some willingness to share the wealth, but I haven't found how to ask to borrow one. The VAG-COM list in the left bar of the main TDI-Club page no longer works... or asks me for an administrative password.

Do I really need to buy a $249 VAG-COM license for a single job, or is there someone in the Tucson/Phoenix metro that I could borrow one from for a few days?

Alternatively, there's mention of a 'free' version of VAG-COM software? Where is this?
 

TDI X3

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Location
Las Vegas, NV
TDI
98 Jetta, 05.5 Jetta, 06 Jetta, 09 JSW
I would replace the top cover seal first and see if that fixes your problem. I did mine yesterday and it took about ten minutes and does not require the use of VagCom. Make sure you only loosen / remove the three upper most torqs bolts and the triangle head bolt. If you mess with the lower three torqs bolts you will need VagCom. Make sure your pump is spotless before you open it up, and be careful not to lose the small washer under the triangle head bolt and it's a breeze. Oh yea, I was told the torq setting for the bolts was 6 - 8 inch pounds so I went with 8 and it appears to be working but you might want to verify that.
 

jbrone

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Location
Ohio
TDI
R.I.P.: '98 Jetta TDI
I changed the upper and lower seals on my pump Saturday. I followed Beowulf's thread and all the advice here and it was a breeze. Thanks all for the input. So far two days and no leaks! My three way coolant hose is due here in a couple of days, so I'll change it after I am sure there is no more leak in a week or so.
 

riofrio

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2006
Location
New Haven, CT
TDI
96 Passat, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Does anyone have a new link to Beowulf's how-to? The links provided throughout this thread no longer work.

I need to replace my upper and lower seals. Other than having the "special" tool and re-adjusting the I.Q, is there anything tricky to watch out for? (i.e., when I open up the quantity adjustor housing, will a lot of crap fall out?). Is it imperative to have a torque wrench when putting it back together?

My pump is a total leaky mess! I can tell for sure the lower seal is pouring, but i see droplets falling from a few places under the pump. I guess I'll do the two seals first and later see if the o-ring leaks too (right now it's kinda hard to tell)
 

jollyGreenGiant

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2003
Location
MA
TDI
03 Golf TDI GLS ( my 5th TDI ), 03 Eurovan GLS - VR6 :(
riofrio said:
Does anyone have a new link to Beowulf's how-to? The links provided throughout this thread no longer work.

I need to replace my upper and lower seals. Other than having the "special" tool and re-adjusting the I.Q, is there anything tricky to watch out for? (i.e., when I open up the quantity adjustor housing, will a lot of crap fall out?). Is it imperative to have a torque wrench when putting it back together?

My pump is a total leaky mess! I can tell for sure the lower seal is pouring, but i see droplets falling from a few places under the pump. I guess I'll do the two seals first and later see if the o-ring leaks too (right now it's kinda hard to tell)
The QA adjuster is totally self contained ( i.e. parts won't shoot out of it when you take it off ), but the bottom of it fits precisely into the adjusting collar in the pump, you have to make a blind placement of the QA male piece into the QA collar female piece when putting the QA back on. You just guy by feel and hope for the best. Other than that, quite a bit of fuel will come out when you pull the QA top and then bottom...

Torque isn't as important on the QA fasteners as it is on the pump head fasteners, those pump head bolts are somewhat fragile and if overtorqued: the pump expands quite a bit which would stress those bolts and perhaps break them, if they break then your shaft will sieze into the pump head and your pump will be pretty much dead.
 

riofrio

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2006
Location
New Haven, CT
TDI
96 Passat, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Thank you thank you thank you!

Replaced the seals in my IP today and the leaks completely disappeared! I'm glad I don't have to worry about the head o-ring. Well, not yet at least.

What an excellent write-up! The only thing that I had to add to it was to move the #1 injector hard line, as it was in the way of one of the torx screws. All I did was disconnect the line at the injector (17mm nut) and loosen it at the pump head to slightly move it out of the way. I made sure to cover the injector and the exposed line so no dirt got in them.

I don't have vag-com so I made extra sure to get alignment markings all over the QA. To my good luck, the car started right up after the procedure and idled and drove normally. I'm gonna visit someone that does have vag-com soon to check and adjust my quality, but it seems to be near ballpark.
 

wrentmore

New member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Location
Austin, TX
TDI
2001 Jetta
Thanks!!!

Just want to thank everyone for the information and procedures in various threads here. I replaced the upper and lower seals on the Jetta's IP today, easy repair with all the info here. YAY! no more leaks. :D

--
wrentmore
 

Sleet

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Kalamazoo, MI(home) Provo, UT(work)
TDI
jetta, 98, black
Ray_G said:
I did a how to for the pump head (when the guts fall out..) If anyone gets a chance and look it over. I was in a hurry to get out of here today, so if you see something that is not right please let me know and I will correct it.
Ray
VE Pump head VE Parts illustration
Ray, the link appears dead, do you still have a copy of what you put together? I'm gonna have to reseal my pump and thought this might be good to have handy in case things come apart!

-J
 
Last edited:

Ray_G

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Location
Tulsa
TDI
98 Jetta TDI
Sent you a PM Jason, the link to it in my signature works fine as well.
Ray
 
Top