01m

I've been reading most of the threads on this topic for the last several weeks seeking the cure to my tranny problems.

The car is a 2001 jetta 2.0 l gasser with the following problem, currently
it will down shif hard into 3rd gear while exiting off the hiway at speed, that being 65 + mph foot on gas. When I back off the gas the RPM's drop way down then back up & she downshiftes into 3rd & I'm in limp mode. Can pull over & turn off the ignition & fire it back up and it's good to go.

I have flushed 2 gallons of valvoline max life atf through it & changed the filter.

Car was had for $600 but have already bought a set of rokkor struts & shocks, ball joints, coil pack plugs wires etc. It runs great, engine is strong and tight as far as leaks go. Need a SAI pump which was stuck solid.

Anyway Things I have noticed since buying the car are the RPM's will fluctuate if i remove foot from gas pedal at hiway speed. Before I changed fluid I did notice that no or little rpm drop when i pulled back on gas at speed, now it will drop off stead, some times drop to ~ 1000+ rpm then bounce back up, it has a rhythmic fashion to it, 2-3 second up then 2-3 seconds down.

This has happened about 4 or 5 times since changing the fluid & filter.
On the original drain I pulled `2.3L , on the refill I started with 3 L ran the engine to op temp on dash gauge then opened the drain plug until fluid was still pulsing out, not a steady flow & capped it. The amount was ~ 0.5l, so initial drain was 2.3l & refill was 2.5l . Took a spin & shifting improved , drove maybe 60 miles & repeated the above this time I found the code block in vag-com to monitor the atf temp. I did the fluid level check procedure & drained 275ml. I Cleared the codes with vag-com & took it for a drive. Shifting was better than before the flush but still not 100 %.

After another 100+ miles I drained the pan again this time i drained `1725ML [1.725l] on the refill I added back the 275ml from previous level check + another `100ml for a total of 2200ml basically a little over a quarter cup of fluid. I added it after reading other posts suggesting a little extra may improve trans shifting. T o me it seems to have helped.

I'm now getting this:

00652 - Gear Monitoring 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Before the flush I noticed flaring, rough shift, delayed shift into D . Thought it felt like it was in neutral at hiway speed a couple of times. I'm not used to an auto trans other 2 cars are sticks.

here is the complete scan. also the batt needs replacement that may have something to do with this.

Thursday,22,May,2014,18:23:30:49413
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212


Mileage: 207350km-128841mi Repair Order: full scan 5-22-14



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76

Mileage: 207350km/128841miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 BQ
Component: 2.0l R4/2V G *3657
Coding: 00003
Shop #: WSC 00126
VCID: 6EDDC4C72A56006E79B-5178

2 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 35-00 - Incorrect Flow Detected
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 JF
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4833
Coding: 00011
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 7DFFF38B77306BF6F01-0962

1 Fault Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 C
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 2A5508D7863E2C4EE53-5178

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
Component: 04 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0003
Coding: 12340
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3A753897269E9CCE953-515A

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1J0-907-487-A.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 487 B
Component: Lenkradelektronik 0001
Coding: 00008
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 30611ABFF0E2569E2B7-5266

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 905 K
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V52
Coding: 07232
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2F6319C3EDDC496632D-515A

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2844035
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2844035

1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0E15ABFB062969EEB7-5178

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 61 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 04097
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 860D1C67A2E6A82E21B-4B18

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

Subsystem 3 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t HL antwortet nicht

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1J4959812C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. HR0002H

6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00913 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Right Driver (E81)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.lbl
Part No: 1J0 035 180 D
Component: RADIO 3CP 0002
Coding: 02401
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2041EAFFA002E61EBB7-4B18

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


Thanks for any input .

Bob G.

njbob said:

here is the complete scan. also the batt needs replacement that may have something to do with this.

Click to expand...

I'd fix the battery problem first. While you have it out, remove the battery box and clean the ground wires & studs under it.

njbob said:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 JF
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4833
Coding: 00011
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 7DFFF38B77306BF6F01-0962

1 Fault Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Click to expand...

Note the 00011 coding. This is for "economy" mode shifting. That's another way of saying "horrible shifting". Recode it to either 00000 (factory mode, which I think is a toggle between economy & sport modes) or 00012 for sport mode. I reset mine to 00000 one year ago; it was at 00011 as well.

Once you do that, reset what it's learned: http://kansascitytdi.com/o1m-faq/ click on "how do I reset adapts?"

Then go for a ride!

it originally set to 00000, I have had it in & out of 11 & 12 a half dozen times already. Found the sport mode shifting was worse, harsher not just firm shifts, but maybe I didn't drive it long enough in that mode.

I'll give that a try & see what it does. I did the re-adapts a couple of days ago after I noticed I had lost the kick down function. Key on pedal to floor for 3 seconds + release the pedal turn off key, kick-down now working.

Except for the tranny acting up some & the beat struts great ride & nice car.

Thanks for the quick response.

Bob G.

Ok. Just reset all the adaptations using vag-com & took it for a spin . A mile down the road I pulled over & re-coded to sport mode. Got on the parkway for a coupled of miles then back road through town with a lot of stop & go. Total 12 miles I guess.

The shifts seem more consistent , they seem firmer & quicker if I"m firm but ginger on the pedal, I tried to graph group 7 but really not familiar with the program just yet. Still get the gut feeling when I have to let up on the gas at a good speed that it's going to down shift & lockup.

Can someone explain the tach dropping & raising when I release the gas at hiway speed ?Should it drop off [ freewheel ? ] or stay steady with the mph ?

No codes on last trip. Usually happenswithin 40 miles or so.


Bob G.

I have no idea what your saying.

I'm saying that at 60 mph if I lift my foot off the gas the RPM's sometimes stay at 3k rpm then drop steady along with the speed BUT at times the rpm's drop down to ~ 1K rpm then shoot back up then it will bounce up & down in a 500 to 800 rpm range. Similar to pumping the clutch on a manual at 60 while letting off the gas .

I think i just answered my own question. It looks like a clutch is going on & off in this situation. What I want to know is what should be happening in this situation, should the rpm stay steady and drop off with speed or drop off & not pick back up until I depress the gas ?

Thanks for your time coolairvw, your the reason I'm here asking this. Out of all the threads on many forums I've read yours seem to be the best info out there & I appreciate your time, thanks.

Bob G.

drop down, shoot up then bounce up and down...... I cant imagine that being normal.

(I stilll dont really understand). Maybe this might be a situation where you should drive the car with someone to get their opinion.

just a quick update of sorts. I've been using the car as a daily driver and it runs great, tranny is still doing it's RPM oscillation thing on the trailing throttle although at times not as pronounced, and it is still tripping into limp mode as a result.

There is at times flaring from 2nd to 3rd, other times nice firm shifts, slow engagement into D & a firm sometimes hard instantaneous slap into R.

Seat of the pants impression is the amount of throttle has a lot of influence over how it shifts, too little & it may flare too much & it will hang in gear before shifting. Just right & the shifts are firm, smooth & sometimes almost imperceptible.

I've put a cpl of hundred miles on it I guess since the last flush & plan on running another gallon of the valvoline max-life ATF through it I'll also change the filter again.

I also plan on doing the pressure mod but only 2 - 4 clicks.

on a side note I installed a set of the Rokkor coil overs along with their rear shocks / springs because it needed em.

I have a video of the speedo / tachometer with the tach bouncing while my foot is off the throttle, just have to find a place to upload it to so you can see what I'm talking about.

Than ks for your time.

bob.

TCC surging in and out is common and address in 01m part two or three. Some of your other issues might not be correctable without rebuild.

Your probably wasting your time with the fluid and pressure mod. (cant hurt but might not help)

This is just a very delayed update to my previous stated transmission quirks.
So far I have logged roughly 7k miles on the car after a good flush & filter change.
The problem was the torque converter cutting in & out when I would take my foot off the gas & coast at highway speeds. The rpms would drop down & then hunt up / down until I gave it gas again.
For the last couple of months this is not been happening. The rpms will hold steady
with the foot off the gas, no hunting at all.
I figure this could be the cold weather and the problem will re-appear when the ambient temps rise. But then again the operational engine temp is a steady ~190 degs. summer or winter.
MPG are ~ 23 + / - .
Bob

The dash temp gauge has a VERY wide acceptable range where the computer will present you with just the "190" reading on the dash.

Do you have a Scangauge? That can be used to read the actual transmission fluid temperature, which can be MUCH different and much higher, especially in stop-and-go traffic.

I have the ross-tech cable. Actual temp & gauge are pretty close IIRC.

Actual temp... Of the engine or the transmission? This is an important distinction.

Bypassing the factory transmission heater, the temperature of the transmission is usually about 15 degrees COOLER than the engine coolant, when measured at the outlet of the converter.

Another short update.

The car has about 8K miles since the first flush, a cpl of days ago I drained the pan & per the bently manual added 3.2 quarts of fluid. I have the Ross_Tech cable but I can not get to the ATF temp block because it says ECU's not capable of reading it so I went with the index finger thermometer. The fluid felt luke warm to the touch & was still draining a little when I put the plug back in.

I had the coding set to sports mode but changed it to economy / touring mode, not a hiccup from the tranny. Nice smooth shifts, the clutches cutting in & out @ speed when I take my foot off the gas pedal has stopped. Now the RPM's follow the speedo in tandem as the speed drops.

I have developed a small leak which I haven't tracked down yet but after 8K miles I had to add about 8 oz of fluid a couple of months back before this last flush.

The drained fluid was darker than I expected but not burnt smelling. I'm getting 23+ MPG with 138K miles on the car.

Thanks for your help.

Bob.

njbob said:

The drained fluid was darker than I expected but not burnt smelling. I'm getting 23+ MPG with 138K miles on the car.

Thanks for your help.

Bob.

Click to expand...

Only 23 mpg from an ALH?

turbovan+tdi said:

Only 23 mpg from an ALH?

Click to expand...

It's a 2.0L gasser

The whole rpm bouncing around sounds like TCC slipping if I read you right. Maybe time for a valve body rebuild. If you can get a good description to CoolAir he can give you better input.

sdeck said:

It's a 2.0L gasser

The whole rpm bouncing around sounds like TCC slipping if I read you right. Maybe time for a valve body rebuild. If you can get a good description to CoolAir he can give you better input.

Click to expand...

Ahh, makes sense.

This is a gasser not a TDI.

The RPM hunting has stopped about 3K miles ago. I still have a hard shift every once in a while but over all a huge improvement from when I first picked up the car.

I'd like to do the valve body rebuild but have decided to sell the car, need the cash to get a 2015 Indian Scout motorcycle.

I'm even thinking about adding some Lucas transmission additive, couple of onces to see if the remaining quirks can be made to disappear.

On the 02, the trans also did the rpm fluctuation thing for many 1000's of miles. I did regular fluid and filter changes over the years and other than a limp mode hiccup that I believe was caused by a slight fluid overfill, the trans has been working flawlessly with no repairs. It has 217k+ miles on it.
I hope I haven't jinxed it with this post

I got the limp mode often, it would generated an error code "impluasable signal " . I think it was set when the RPM's would drop below about 1300 - 1400 while the speedo was showing 60+ MPH.

I still have some shifting issues, hard shift here flare there that I try to control with the gas pedal. I also had the shift points set to sports mode until last flush when I set it to econ / touring mode. I like the latter better. I think there is 138K+ on the car now, I feel it will run another 100K if it's not abused & fluid is flushed every 35K or so.

03 TDI Wagon
413,xxxkms

no history, except the previous owner drove it(now passed away)

The problem, when you first fire up the engine and quickly put it into drive or reverse the car will move in either direction for about 30 seconds(if you let the engine run for more then 30 seconds and put in gear), then the motor revs and the car no longer goes in either direction no matter what the gear positioning is, the motor just revs like it's not in gear. The car will roll in all gears as well. with the exception of park.

I can duplicate this again only after the car has been sitting for about 2 hrs or more and again it will only move for about 30 secs and the motor will rev like it's not in gear.

I tried using VCDS to read codes, but the battery was disconnected and I'm not getting any codes yet?

I haven't had time until now to test it, but would like a starting point.
I'm going to re-connect the battery and try to set off a code and then scan it again, is there a way I can get it to set off codes any faster or to see what's happening?
I'm thinking check the fluid level? Is Valvolene MaxLife ATF ok to use?

It does seem like it is severely low on fluid and the converter is draining. Yes, Valvoline Maxlife ATF is acceptable, and you should strongly consider a full drain and fluid change (several fluid changes would be better to get all the old crap out) and ensure that it is definitely filled properly.

FUCHT said:

The problem, when you first fire up the engine and quickly put it into drive or reverse the car will move in either direction for about 30 seconds(if you let the engine run for more then 30 seconds and put in gear), then the motor revs and the car no longer goes in either direction no matter what the gear positioning is, the motor just revs like it's not in gear.

Click to expand...

if your fluid is full you probably need a trans

Ill check the fluid level and go from there. thanks

well, I got around to firing it up, hasn't been run since before winter. i'm sitting there with VCDS running and I'm scanning for a couple codes(glow plug and ABS hydraulic fault), no codes under trans, so i put in first and rev the motor hoping to trigger a code.. the car tries to lurch forward once it hits around 2000 to 2500rpm. do the same for reverse, same result. i take it for a quick spin around the block, park it and i'm thinking hmmm it was hesitant when shifting and it was jumpy, not a really solid forward feel, maybe it just needs a top up as you mentioned.. i get out and look under the car and there's a puddle of trans fluid... need to further investigate.. any suggestions or advice or expierences??

FUCHT said:

no codes under trans, so i put in first and rev the motor hoping to trigger a code.. the car tries to lurch forward once it hits around 2000 to 2500rpm.

Click to expand...

Do you realize that if its low your doing damage as you do that?

FUCHT said:

i take it for a quick spin around the block,

Click to expand...

Do you realize if its low your doing even more damage by doing that?

FUCHT said:

any suggestions or advice or expierences??

Click to expand...

How about checking and topping off the fluid? Then use your eyes to see where the leak is coming from.

CoolAirVw said:

Do you realize that if its low your doing damage as you do that?
Do you realize if its low your doing even more damage by doing that?
How about checking and topping off the fluid? Then use your eyes to see where the leak is coming from.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, the car is parked, any idea where these things commonly leak (input shaft seal?)

I haven't had time to check it out again, it's been parked as I've been busy.
I'm going to pull it out and find out where it's leaking from, anything to look for while removing it?

First - STOP DRIVING IT until you have filled it! Not into the driveway, not down the block, just STOP DRIVING IT until it is filled.

If you suspect a leak, it is perfectly acceptable to overfill it. Overfilling it won't cause damage (at least not unless you massively overdo it) where trying to run it while low MOST CERTAINLY WILL DESTROY THE TRANSMISSION.

Fill it with fluid using a long flexible narrow funnel (any auto store or Wal-mart should have what I'm thinking of, it has a tube that is about 1/2" in diameter ribbed plastic and about 14 inches long. There is also a different funnel / tube combination that has a big catch can with lid at the top, a twist valve at the base, and a 3/4" diameter clear tube with a cap at the bottom.

Either of these funnels will work. You can leave it in the fill tube while you are playing around with this. Fill it up with the engine off until the fluid starts to drool out of the fill tube, and THEN you can back it out of the garage and start messing with it.

FUCHT said:

Thanks for the info, the car is parked, any idea where these things commonly leak (input shaft seal?)
I haven't had time to check it out again, it's been parked as I've been busy.
I'm going to pull it out and find out where it's leaking from, anything to look for while removing it?

Click to expand...

Your committed to pulling it out? You havent even looked to see where its leaking from???

You dont need to know "common" areas that it leaks from. You need to uses your eyes and a flashlight to know WHERE its leaking from.