TDI broke down 1500 miles from home

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
Hello everybody. I have been here a while, but only registered today.

I am out of state, 1500 miles from home, and have a problem with my TDI. 2000 Jetta TDI ALH, automatic.

Today I suffered a series of events that clearly takes me out of the pan, and into the fire. I left my tool that reads the system at home. Please help me figure out what I did. My car is dead!


Needed to change right front blinker bulb,

Drove my Jetta to the auto parts store to get the bulb and the car ran perfect!

Brought car home and replaced the blinker bulb. It works now.

I happened to noticed an electrical wire conduit up against the pulley/belt of the engine at the right/front of the engine compt.

Plastic conduit was chewed through by moving pulley

The 3 or 4 small gauge electrical wires that were inside that chewed conduit were half eaten through by the spinning pully.

I peeled back the conduit. Having no black tape, I used duct tape and wrapped every individual wire, then I taped around all the "taped wires" to hold it all together and zip tied the whole kaboodle back to something so they couldnt fall near the pully again.

I started the car and backed it into the garage. At this time I have no idea if I was in limp mode. As far as I knew the car was running perfectly.

I vaccumed the the car floor and under the seats, and alongside the seats, sometimes jamming the thin vaccuum nozzle indiscriminately down along side the seats, and under the seats at all angles. (possibly unseating or breaking wires to the computer?)

I vaccumed the trunk

I started the car to go somewhere and realized that the turbo was not doing its thing.

(. Ihad done 2 things to the car which may have caused this. Taped those wires, maybe breaking one, and vaccumed the car.)

I brought it home and checked all the fuses that located on the drivers side of the dash.

Fuses all looked good.

I dont remember what I was thinking when I decided to un hook the battery for a few minutes.

After hooking the battery back up, the car would not start at all. The starter functions, and the engine turns over lickety split, with plenty of rpm, but the car does not start. I noticed the glow plug light in the dashboard was not functioning. It always had before.

I replaced relay 109 with the spare in the glovebox, because I remembered the last time the glowplug system had an issue, relay 109 was the issue. I thought maybe I burned the relay when I re-hooked the battery, incidentally, against my better judgement, I only unhooked the positive batttery terminal.

Still no start.

Checked fuses again. Appear fine.

Still no start.

You see I have 2 problems.
The turbo does not function is the first.
The engine does not start is the second.

I think I created both issues by doing different things. Having a really really bad day.


I left my tool in CT., like an idiot...and cannot read the computer. I always take that tool with me when I drive out of state!

I suspect the following possibilities:

1.) When I was taping the half chewed wires, I unknowingly broke one, and disabled the turbo. These wires are hard to reach, and I only want to manipulate them again if I am certain it is necessary. I would like to eliminate all other options before touching those wires again, because I am afraid they WILL break if not already broken...I would rather save that option for last.

2.) When vacumming the car, I broke or unplugged a wire under the seat with the vaccuum wand.

3.) When unhooking the battery cable for 5 minutes-ish, my computer lost memory?

4.) When re hooking the battery, (only the positive cable) I burned something out.

I dont have much money. I had to come here on a family medical emergency, had to beat that snowstorm on the east coast last week because my tires were bad, and have been forced to buy tires on my arrival. So I really need to get this fixed without paying a garage.

l
I could have my family fed ex my scan tool if needed.
 

Hyde7278

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Location
Central Mich
TDI
2001 Golf GL
First thing you need to do is fix the wires correctly ( butt connectors and some wire ) wire strippers and crimper-$25 at most then check around the seat.
 

Alchemist

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Location
Lethbridge, Alberta
TDI
'04 ALH Golf
1. The wires you repaired sound like the ones to the MAP/IAT sensor on the intercooler. The engine will run without these sensors connected, so once you get the engine running, revisit that repair and possibly do a better job. A few red splices and a cheap crimp tool might be better than duct tape.

2. Under seat wiring has nothing to do with engine operation. It may result in a seat belt or airbag warning, but the engine will not be affected.

3. All power is disconnected from the computer by the ignition switch, so the battery being disconnected is not related.

4. This is a possibility, but not definite. The glow plug light comes on as part of the ECU start up routine. The ignition switch supplies power to the ECU, which then activates the 109 relay. The relay then supplies power to the entire engine management system. If the relay is good, then the next suspect is the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

HTH
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
Yes , the wires head towards the intercooler. With the fading daylight, I was not certain where the wires led to in either direction. The wiring harness looks original, and that area only has 2 conduits. I will check in the morning......and I will try a couple different sequences with the battery hook up and the ignition key....as well as putting the first relay 109 back in... both of these relay 109's were bought off the shelf just 4 months ago...I will wiggle it too. If nothing starts, I will somehow figure out how to test the electricl portion of the ignotion switch...

And I will find the computer to see if I accidently ripped a wire off it... I cant remember where the computer is but I will find it again. I really appreciate you taking so much time for me.. reading, comprehending and thinking, and writing. That was a lot to volunteer to a perfect stranger. I promise to pass that good will to someone.
 

Alchemist

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Location
Lethbridge, Alberta
TDI
'04 ALH Golf
You did not rip any wires off the computer. It is located under the cowling in front of the windshield, and there is no way you could have done any damage there.
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I would check the battery cables for tightness and corrosion. The ecu may not be getting power because of a loose or corroded connection.
 

n1das

TDIClub Enthusiast, Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2002
Location
Nashua, NH, USA
TDI
2014 BMW 535xd ///M-Sport, 2012 BMW X5 Xdrive35d, former 3x TDI owner
The battery connections may be OK given that it cranks over fine when trying to start it.

Has the OP checked other stuff that could have failed by coincidence the last time it was shut down? Anti-shudder valve open (not stuck closed) and moves freely by hand? When was the timing belt last changed?
No-start troubleshooting thread (stickied at top of TDI 101 forum): http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398
 
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FUCHT

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Location
Orangeville, Ontario
TDI
02 Jetta TDI / 03 Wagon TDI / 05 AUDI Q 1.8T 6spd man.
G over everything you touched... make sure nothing is disconnected. double check all connections are tight that you touched, including the battery terminals. anytime Ive come across a problem with my car after Ive done any work on it, I always revisit the area worked on to check I didn't miss a loose bolt or terminal.
 

fouillard13

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Location
Pincher Creek, AB
TDI
03 Jetta TDI Standard
little bit of a threadjack here (sorry) but how tight do the terminals have to be, and why is that such a big deal? the ones on my truck wiggle back and forth fairly easy, and can be slid off if you pulled hard enough. there is still definitely contact being made though, so what exactly is the big deal? I understand more surface area, etc.. but would it really cause a car not to start/run if they were a tad loose/ moved back and forth?
 

sdeck

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Location
Northern Colorado Front Range
TDI
2003 Jetta, 253K, 01M, DLC520s, VNT-17(sold); 2014 Passat SE 6M, 61,000 miles (Feb 16 buyback date)
Amps are limited by the conductivity of the circuit. More contact = more conductivity = more amps can be pulled thru. If contact is minimal, may not get enough amps to properly power whatever needs it. Also, trying to pull those amps thru poor conductivity cAuses a lot of heat.
 

fouillard13

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Location
Pincher Creek, AB
TDI
03 Jetta TDI Standard
hmm, interesting. maybe that would explain why it fried the ECM in my truck.

threadjack over. I hope OP gets it figured out. I know the feeling of these damn cars breaking down 1500 miles from home, its not cool.
 

Jettascuba

Veteran Member
Joined
May 27, 2009
Location
South Africa
TDI
2002 VW Jetta
Hope you got it running.

Did you check for fuel from the injectors on cranking. Am thinking IP wires. Also check that the intake flap is open.
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
Ok ...My sister was coming to Florida on a plane and she was able to bring my generic scan tool with her. A lot has happened, but first I will tell you my status as of right now.

Everything seems to be operating now except for the turbo, which only has about 6000 miles on it The only code that remains is P1156, which is not one of the original codes showing. The car only has about 1 mile on it since I cleared the codes.

Yes I will post a pic on the chaffed wires. Pretty sure they go to the intercooler.
Here are the sequence of events since my last post, that has allowed me to start the car, and fix the transmission, but still have no turbo

Sister brought scan tool.. she was coming to FL on a plane and she was able to grab my scan tool

P0725- Engine speed sensor circuit malfunction

P1875. Manufacturer specific DTC

P 1850. Manufacturer specific DTC

The codes specified circutry, the scanner specified that, so I looked to the fuses again, remembering I saw corrosion there.

cleaned fuse spades with sandpaper... the spades had a black layer of oxidization?

Car started! still no turbo, and the transmission was not shifting....and now 5 codes, instead of 3.

P0725- Engine speed sensor circuit malfunction

P1875. Manufacturer specific DTC

P 1850. Manufacturer specific DTC

P3130

P1156

I figured I was on the right track...

I unhooked the battery, and I filed the fuse terminals with the nail file that pivots from fingernail clippers.

I bought new fuses and replaced them with dielectric grease on each spade

Rehooked battery and still had 5 codes...

I cleared the codes with the scan tool and took it for a ride

I gave myself a golf clap when I discovered the transmission was now shifting through the gears.

only code remaining is

P1156, and I the turbo is not working.

This car has the egr delete on it and the engine light is always on... That may be the reason for the code... I forgot what the p1156 code is at the moment.

The battery connections appear fine for the guys who suspected that.
 

fouillard13

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Location
Pincher Creek, AB
TDI
03 Jetta TDI Standard
P1156 - Volkswagen
Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled
Description
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - open circuit/short to ground
Cause
Wiring open circuit/short to ground, MAP sensor
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
The battery connections may be OK given that it cranks over fine when trying to start it.

Has the OP checked other stuff that could have failed by coincidence the last time it was shut down? Anti-shudder valve open (not stuck closed) and moves freely by hand? When was the timing belt last changed?
No-start troubleshooting thread (stickied at top of TDI 101 forum): http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398
not sure about the answers to your questions.
OP is short for?
The timing belt has been 89,000 miles since the last change..

The car is running now, and shifting, but no turbo.
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
Any chance you could post a photo of the wires you repaired (to determine what they go to)?
I tried 6 ways to Sunday to post 2 photos, and apparantly I am as bad with a computer as I am fixing my tdi!.. The wires deffo seem to go to the intercooler and now with the enging runnuiing and still no turbo I think a good wire repair here will fix the turbo
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
P1156 - Volkswagen
Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled
Description
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - open circuit/short to ground
Cause
Wiring open circuit/short to ground, MAP sensor
Map sensor! Well it is probably those half chafed wires to the intercooler, right? I will fix those wires to a much better degree and I bet the that will clear the last code.

Wondering if this will also fix the turbo
 

1854sailor

Resident Curmudgeon
Joined
Aug 10, 2004
Location
Westerly, RI
TDI
2015 Golf SE SportWagen, 2015 Golf SE Hatch Back.
See fouillard's post above and recheck your wiring repair. The MAP is in the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the intake. If the MAP wiring is facakta you will not have any boost. OP = Original Poster = YOU!
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
See fouillard's post above and recheck your wiring repair. The MAP is in the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the intake. If the MAP wiring is facakta you will not have any boost. OP = Original Poster = YOU!
thank you Sailor, and fouillard, and everybody else.

I am feeling pretty good about getting this car fixed now. This OP will keep yall posted!
 

fouillard13

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Location
Pincher Creek, AB
TDI
03 Jetta TDI Standard
just a little tip, in case I wasnt around or anyone else.

just type your engine codes into google, maybe throw "VW" at the end of the code. thats all I did. sometimes guys will post their engine code and have to wait 2 days for someone to come along and explain it, whereas you coulda googled it and had the answer yourself in about 15 seconds. I know the feeling of being broke down away from home, every minute matters.

for posting pictures... very easy.

go to http://postimage.org/

hit browse, find the picture on your computer/laptop, then click upload.

then select the "Hotlink for Forums (1)" code, copy it. (hit the "copy to clipboard button) paste it here (right click, hit paste), and done!

pretty easy.
 
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alhutch

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2002
Location
Portland, Oregon
TDI
None
Map sensor! Well it is probably those half chafed wires to the intercooler, right? I will fix those wires to a much better degree and I bet the that will clear the last code.

Wondering if this will also fix the turbo
It's very likely. No MAP reading to the ECU will cripple your car, since it has no way to sense the amount of boost being made.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Sharing my experience with ALH and grounding issues.

Long story short, my engine cranked over pretty good but was always hard starting, even after a Malone Tune, new batteries, cleaning cables, different starters, etc.

Anyway, the ground cable from the chassis to the transmission (on my Vanagon) was not making "good" contact. Corrected the problem and the engine has started just fine ever since!
 

Rickie

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Location
Connecticut
TDI
1.9 ALH, 2000 Jetta
Update. Last you knew, all was fixed but the turbo.

I repaired the chafed wires the right way with butt connectors. These chafed wires were the wires that went to the map sensor on the intercooler.

I also found a vaccuum tube up by the cabin wall that seemed to have a leak. I fixed that too.

I started the car and the turbo was working great. ALL FIXED. I drove the car back home 1500 miles.

Because I fixed 2 things, I am not sure which one allowed my turbo to operate again but it was one of those 2 things, and both of them were part of the turbo.


Thanks yall! Yall life savers!
 
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