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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old November 13th, 2018, 17:34   #31
y22man
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Thanks it’s cold in slc, not as cold Canada.
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Old November 13th, 2018, 17:41   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickTD View Post
The VW fluid is good stuff, although pricy, G 052 911 A2. It works well in extreme cold.

The passats and audi's with longitudinal drivetrains have hypoid gearsets, so they should have a GL5 lubricant. I've heard good things about Fuchs Titan sintofluid 75W80.

Regular 75w90 GL5 gear oils may work OK in warm climates, but do not work well in Canada...
I've been running the Fuchs for about 10 years now. Works great in cold. Fuchs is first fill for some production.
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Old November 14th, 2018, 09:32   #33
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Quote:
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... What was the vehicle used the GGB?

B5.5 Passat 1.9 liter TDI.
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Old November 14th, 2018, 09:52   #34
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Thanks.
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Old December 10th, 2018, 14:51   #35
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I finished the swap, almost. I need some help with the wiring inside. The video I was watching on youtube has been great. What I can not clearly see is the 53 relay. I have started it by using a wire in the 53 relay block. But I would like to use the clutch interlock switch with cruse.
I understand pin 1 gray wire to directly to the interlock.
I do not understand the splice off pin 3. Where does that go? And the bottom wire in the harness for the 53 relay, where does that go?
And does the 53 relay go back into place?
On a side note I am liking the swap. I am having an issue with the brakes, I think I need to adjust the pedal. I am having fun getting the last of the air out of the clutch. All in all a very good swap.
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Old December 11th, 2018, 07:53   #36
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Cut the brown and white wire from Relay 53. Splice the end from the relay side to the clutch interlock switch. Splice the other wire from the interlock switch to a ground point. Cap the other end of the brown white wire. You don't need it anymore.

Loosen the jam nut on the brake pedal and turn the large hex nut in or out until the brake pedal is even with the clutch pedal.

For the clutch bleeding, I have tried many methods. (Pressurized, one man bleeder, mity-vac) The most effective is to loosen the bleed nut at slave cylinder and get a good flow coming out. Tighten bleed valve. If pedal is still soft and releasing low, pump the pedal 20+ times and then drive it. 9 times out of 10 a few short trips takes care of it.
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Old December 11th, 2018, 09:47   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwztips View Post
Cut the brown and white wire from Relay 53. Splice the end from the relay side to the clutch interlock switch. Splice the other wire from the interlock switch to a ground point. Cap the other end of the brown white wire. You don't need it anymore.

Loosen the jam nut on the brake pedal and turn the large hex nut in or out until the brake pedal is even with the clutch pedal.

For the clutch bleeding, I have tried many methods. (Pressurized, one man bleeder, mity-vac) The most effective is to loosen the bleed nut at slave cylinder and get a good flow coming out. Tighten bleed valve. If pedal is still soft and releasing low, pump the pedal 20+ times and then drive it. 9 times out of 10 a few short trips takes care of it.
Thanks for the reply. Does the 53 relay need to go back once the wires are spliced like your reply?
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Old December 11th, 2018, 10:41   #38
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Yes, plug the relay back in.
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Old December 11th, 2018, 13:04   #39
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Thanks.
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Old December 15th, 2018, 12:37   #40
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I am still having an issue with brakes. The jam nut and large hex is all the way towards the firewall. All was great. It did have to be all the way to not drag the brakes.

I put the Lower dash on and now it pushes against the brake pedal shaft. The pedal still sticks out taller about .5 to an inch. Not sure how to adjust it any lower.

Jay
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Old December 15th, 2018, 12:49   #41
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[IMG][/IMG]
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Old December 15th, 2018, 12:55   #42
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Did you remove the Aluminum pedal bracket when installing clutch pedal? If yes, most likely the bracket isnt aligned properly on the 2 dowel pins on the firewall.
That would make it sit high and take all your pedal adjustment away and the pedal will sit high like in the pic
Very annoying to deal with.
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Old December 15th, 2018, 14:10   #43
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I left the bracket in. I pulled the pin out. Put a longer pin in with the clutch pedal.
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Old December 15th, 2018, 16:18   #44
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What year car did you get the brake pedal from? The early cars had a longer threaded coupling than the later cars. Compare the coupling length of the auto brake pedal to the manual one. Most likely you have an early one.

If that is the case, then you can remove the rubber cover from the auto pedal and grind off the welds on the front part of the pedal and remove the wide piece of steel. What's left is a narrow brake pedal for a manual.
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Old December 15th, 2018, 16:50   #45
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I just swapped the pin for the longer one and trimmed my brake pedal.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...76#post4106576
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