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Ontario Local discussions for those in the Ontario, Canada area.

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Old November 12th, 2018, 22:49   #1
03tdiwagon
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Default HWY driving,all of a sudden temp gauge rises, HEAT shuts off?? waterpump, heatercore?

hey guys so i need your help and knowledge on this one

was driving to the fiances house and about 5 min in without sound or warning the temp gauge started to rise relatively quick , and sure enough hit the red and the temp light came on so i pulled over and let it cool down. upon inspection i FOUND THE FOLLOWING

1) NO coolant leaking onto ground, so no hoses, clamps, reservoir fell apart and broke off.

2) The heat is now obsolete nothing at all , just blows regular cool air, AC works good just no hot air anymore? (heater core not getting flow, bad pump???)

3) inlet to the heater core is extremely hot as well as all the lines connected to the inlet hose, the outlet of the heater core i can grab by hand and isn't very hot at all (blockage in the heater core?? and the reservoir tank almost overflowed, it started to leak out of the bottom hose i believe do to back pressure from the heater core hence it overflowing and having extremely hot hoses)

4) UPDATE upon starting car and watching coolant reservoir i found there is no fluid return when motor is cold and warm, i read even on idle there should be coolant return before T stat opens up, i gassed it a few times to 3k rpm and no fluid came out ??? BAD WATER PUMP???

5) I'm just confused though as how my coolant reservoir almost overflowed, were talking 1" away from the threaded cap just inline with the sensor on a 45 angle, like if the return line isn't returning fluid how is this volume changing, reverse flow?? i understand everything else just dont get how i have fluid levels rising if i dont got no return fluids

if it is the pump im going to change it myself simply enough, or heater core i can back flush even
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Old November 13th, 2018, 06:07   #2
derek5120
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I'd say that either the plastic fin on the water pump broke off and the water pump isnt moving anything (this is why we replace them with steel ones) or you popped your headgasket. When the headgasket blows you lose heat as the combustion gases usually end up in the core first. The added pressure causes your tank to overflow.
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Old November 13th, 2018, 09:43   #3
McGuillicuddy
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This the wagon you just purchased?
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Old November 13th, 2018, 11:56   #4
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Hold your hand over the opening to the coolant reservoir and see if it pressurizes, that's a sign of head gasket problems.
Thank member Windex for that.
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Old November 13th, 2018, 12:40   #5
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Sounds like either a stuck thermostat or the waterpump impeller is slipping on the pump shaft.
I would remove the thermostat and reach in with your fingers and try to move the pump impeller.....if it moves it's slipping.
Check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water with a thermometer to see if it opens and at what temp.
If the pump impeller is slipping remember that changing it means loosening the timing belt and all that that entails.

Last edited by maxmoo; November 13th, 2018 at 12:44.
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Old November 13th, 2018, 17:18   #6
03tdiwagon
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if it is a pump why cant i just take the tension off of the tensioner, slip the belt off but not 100% just let it hang, and then change the pump and reinstall belt, torque nut on tensioner again
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Old November 13th, 2018, 17:23   #7
03tdiwagon
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so just tap water or distilled ?? ok if i do this can you inform me of what temp it should open at , and is there a range of open like 50% open or 75% open?? or is it simply open or closed only 2 options
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Old November 14th, 2018, 07:54   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03tdiwagon View Post
so just tap water or distilled ?? ok if i do this can you inform me of what temp it should open at , and is there a range of open like 50% open or 75% open?? or is it simply open or closed only 2 options
Never use tap, distilled or deionized water only unless it's an emergency, then you can use any liquid to get out out of the situation (including peeing into the radiator).

Boil some water, put the thermostat in it and watch it open. Do this twice. If it doesn't open all the way then replace it.
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Old November 14th, 2018, 14:10   #9
2ManyKMfor1Tank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03tdiwagon View Post
if it is a pump why cant i just take the tension off of the tensioner, slip the belt off but not 100% just let it hang, and then change the pump and reinstall belt, torque nut on tensioner again
If you don't have the tools to hold the cam, injection pump, and crank in place to keep them from moving you risk losing the engine.
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Old November 14th, 2018, 16:03   #10
03tdiwagon
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imoOOO i am going to do the thermostat test now.

2ManyKMfor1Tank, why cant i just use the sketchy method of a paint marker and put a dot on the sprocket and on the block to make sure they stay align.... if they do go out of time why cant i just put the dots back in lign..... i know its stupid but actually i never understood why this doesnt work? yes lets say the cam sprocket rotates 90 degrees, well why cant i just rotate it back 90 degrees and put it back to original position???
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Old November 14th, 2018, 18:17   #11
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The cam sprocket has to be loose on the cam during timing belt adjustment, there is no key on the cam it's a taper fit, so as your tensioning the sprocket can spin on the cam slightly. So marking it won't work as it won't be in the same spot, if you don't adjust it this way you run to risk of your belt coming off.
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Old November 15th, 2018, 07:19   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derek5120 View Post
The cam sprocket has to be loose on the cam during timing belt adjustment, there is no key on the cam it's a taper fit, so as your tensioning the sprocket can spin on the cam slightly. So marking it won't work as it won't be in the same spot, if you don't adjust it this way you run to risk of your belt coming off.
Belt coming off, how so? He can do it with just marking it with paint but the timing won't be optimal.
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Old November 15th, 2018, 09:02   #13
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Have you noticed how much the cam sprocket turns when your tightening the adjuster? That movement is belt slop on the tension side and between the cam and IP, I can't see how you can change a water pump on the slack side of the belt and get proper timing belt tension. I have seen multiple people do the mark and pray with bad results. I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, I just don't think the timing belt is something to "cheat" with. We are talking alh right?
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Old November 15th, 2018, 10:32   #14
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If he only changes the pump, the timing change might be a non issue. The relationship between the cam and the IP remains unchanged. It's a totally different story if he changes the belt too but you still didn't answer my question though.
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Old November 15th, 2018, 11:37   #15
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It might, but most people remove the large roller and take the belt off the crank so it doesn't get covered in coolant. I'm not saying it's not possible, I'm just stating that to do the job correctly requires removal of the belt and to get the correct adjustment requires the loosening of the cam bolt per OEM information. But we can disagree also
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