which turbo replacement?

Well after languishing a couple of week I decided to try cleaning the intake ports. last time I tried barbecue grill cleaner, but I didn't like how it foamed and that is water base and corrosive. I found that PV blaster penetrating oil devolves the carbon. After scraping as much of the 1/8 thick layer with a screwdriver, blowing out the bits with compressed air, I filled up the port with PV blaster and agitated it with a cable tie, blew the stuff out and onto the fire wall, stuffed a rag down it and repeated the process 3 times. It seems reasonable clean, but I cant see from the top. Il'l try a mirror and flashlight or the endoscope. #2 is soaking now. If the deposits left are small and soft, maybe they'll do no harm passing though the engine.


Camera shoes that still needs some more cleaning in the hard to reach areas. The valve looks OK

Did you rotate the engine over two complete turns before you started cleaning the Intake Ports in the head?

At the appropriate setting of the Cam, you can work on three different Intake Ports without having to rotate the Cam. It doesn't matter if the Exhaust Valve is open or not, you are only working on the Intake side of that particular cylinder.

I've always scraped out the ports with various instruments that I made for that purpose. I vacuum and use compressed air in that order. I never try to get the port spotless and shiny.

Yes, there is one spring under each lifter as well as a small internal spring. Oil pressure and the small internal spring should keep the lifter crown against the Cam shaft lobes at all times. But, on the heal of the Cam lobe there will not be enough pressure to open the valve, exhaust or intake.

1,2 and 3 closed, yep, more than 2 turns. I tried a bicycle brake cable, flared at the end and chucked in the drill to try to get behind the intake valve.




... last port #4...

I got the exhaust manifold bolting in. I need to weld the exhaust pipe and first hanger next.


... I welded up the exhaust pipe, made a sleeve that fit over and welded it to the converter. I welded the front hanger back on and the muffler hanger back on.


next.. well maybe hook up the some of the intake tubing and put the intake manifold back on and the EGR stuff.

I have it almost back together. No thanks to the winter weather. Need to get new vacuum tubing, oil and filter.

Well it started up and idled. Need vacuum lines.


I changed the oil filter, is the plastic cap suppose to screw down to the flange? It was tight so Ididn't get it down to the flange. Doesn't seem to be leaking. Have 0w-40 mobil1 oil.

There is a nice big gasket, it should contact the base, never needed more than hand tight. You can get it so tight it'll mash the gasket. This is meant to be easy, not hard.

There is a six speed in the junkyard, will the sixth gear bolt up to my 5 speed, or does it need an adapter?


Tony

Unfortunately, that six-speed is from a gasser unless the PO imported it him/herself.

Well, yes, but can I bolt on the 6th gear.

The 1 thing remotely like that is overdrive gears you can replace your 5th gear with.
To get 6 speeds you need one of the TDI-correct trans, usually from England/Europe.

Why are you running 0W40?

I thought 5w40 was good down to -20...

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Ive seen kits to put a 6th gear on, but expensive. I can but the .622 gear set on ebay and parts from a 6 speed Audi in the junk yard. Id lke to keep my .72 fifth.


Why would you want thick oil when the engine is cold?

5w40 is better unless you live in Nunavut or the Northwest Territories. The 0w and 5w viscosities are not much different when the engine is hot.

Many years ago I posted this: "The 5w40 is designed to be a great diesel engine oil.

The 0w40 tries to be all things for all engines, instead it is just an average oil for all engines."

And later I posted: "A rule of thumb might be, the 0w40 can go 10k miles but the 5w40 can go further. So even if you plan to change at 10k, the 5w40 will give you a healthy margin of safety."

I wasn't an expert then and I still am not. But what I've learned is that all multi-grade oils contain viscosity modifiers, and the greater the spread between the hot and cold grades the more VM has to be added to the oil. So there's more VMs in a 0w40 and thus less of everything else. And some VMs tend to shear more than others, so your 0w40 could end up as a 0w30 at 40°C by the end of the oil change interval -- which is not good.

I just left my ports clogged the first time I did the manifold, 125k later when I re did the manifold they looked clean. Did use the grey power cetane stuff every four tanks. I could tell when a chunk melted and was processed via the exhaust cloud though.

Happy new year.

From what I understand, a chunk could get stuck in the intake valve, then engine trashed.

Starting is slow when cold, so than leaned me toward 0w-40. I could change it in spring and save the 0w-40 for use next winter. Its already black as can be, conversely my Honda Odyssey is still clean after 2k miles.

I may just buy the .622 gear and try it. Its a project to convert a 5 speed to 6. Id have to get 2 transmissions and swap all the gears into the 6 speed.

Got 58 mpg on my first tank yesterday. The TDI has about the same gearing ans my old Saturn Sc1 and fuel economy about the same if price per gallon is factored.

Been running 0w-20 in the Saturn for 8 years an it calls for 5w-30, no problems. Most of the wear occurs when starting the engine, so a thinner oil flows easier, thus lubricates sooner.

TornadoRed said:

5w40 is better unless you live in Nunavut or the Northwest Territories. The 0w and 5w viscosities are not much different when the engine is hot.

Many years ago I posted this: "The 5w40 is designed to be a great diesel engine oil.

The 0w40 tries to be all things for all engines, instead it is just an average oil for all engines."

Click to expand...

This was reasonably accurate but not complete. The 0w40 diesel engine oils offered by companies in Canada are not the same as those offered in the US and warmer climes.

And there are certainly places in Alberta and Manitoba where a 0w40 engine oil is called for at this time of year. (In North Dakota and northern Minnesota too)

Well I let the car sit for two weeks and this morning, at -7F outside, I tried starting it so I could move some snow. Its suppose to be -25F on Wednesday night.

arcosine said:

Happy new year.

From what I understand, a chunk could get stuck in the intake valve, then engine trashed.

Starting is slow when cold, so than leaned me toward 0w-40. I could change it in spring and save the 0w-40 for use next winter. Its already black as can be, conversely my Honda Odyssey is still clean after 2k miles.

I may just buy the .622 gear and try it. Its a project to convert a 5 speed to 6. Id have to get 2 transmissions and swap all the gears into the 6 speed.

Got 58 mpg on my first tank yesterday. The TDI has about the same gearing ans my old Saturn Sc1 and fuel economy about the same if price per gallon is factored.

Been running 0w-20 in the Saturn for 8 years an it calls for 5w-30, no problems. Most of the wear occurs when starting the engine, so a thinner oil flows easier, thus lubricates sooner.

Click to expand...

That totally discounts the importance of film strength and the anti sheer characteristics, yes oil pressure is critical and reducing the time sounds great but if the film strength isn't there you're just wearing prematurely. Yes I also understand viscosity and temps and how they affect the viscosity. VW had a minimum oil standard for a reason though, it wasn't to sell "magic" VW motor oil. If it works for you then it works...I'm down south and we've only had maybe 2 days that were below freezing here, lows in the 20s but most days it warms up.

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I had to put the battery charger on it and cranked it a quite a bit before it started. Im glad I put winter oil in it. The Saturn started right up in half a second.

arcosine said:

I had to put the battery charger on it and cranked it a quite a bit before it started. Im glad I put winter oil in it.

Click to expand...

The engine has to turn at least 275 rpm before fuel is injected.