2000 golf tdi starts then dies

Ok so i just installed a new injector pump on my car. Now it starts for a sec then dies. Immobilizer light is not on butter fly on intake isnt shut either.. If i retard the pump it wont do anything but if i full advance it thats when it will start then die. Does this sound like i might be a tooth off and its not advanced far enough?

Can a bad crank or cam sensor do this?

No cam sensor in the ALH engine.

The crankshaft sensor is fairly robust. And, why would it coincidently go bad at the same time you changed the IP?

It sure sounds like the immoblizer ...... but, changing the timing gets you a fire-up, so the issue must be with the IP.

I assume you have all the air out of the system ..... otherwise, if not, your wasting your time.

Moving the IP sprocket within the three slotted bolt-holes by a "hair" changes the timing big time. So, you need to back it down from the full advanced position little by little until it starts and runs.... be patient. I'd take off the Intake Rubber Hose in order to see better... it will idle with that hose off. The hose being off will most likely throw a DTC due to the MAF not having air flow. Or, use a mirror and good light so that you can see better....

Well i bought the car not running. The guy said it was the ip so i got a new one and installed it. Would air left in ip do this you think? I have turned it over and cracked each injector line 2x to make sure it was clear of air. I went and got a new fuel filter also because old one had bad o-rings and air was leaking into it. I have also turned the ip pulley for timing all over and either it does nothing or will start then die. Can the immobilizer do this even though the light on dash is going off after a sec of turning ignition on? Really lost here.

I wasn't aware the 2000's had an immobilizer. I thought that started later. I have a 99.5, '01, and '02. Only the '01 has it.

Needle lift sensor? Fuel temp sensor?

You could always pull the injectors, hook them up outside the engine and crank it to see if they're doing what they're supposed to do. If they all spray evenly when they're supposed to, you know the pump itself is working. After that, the only issue left would be timing or something electronic. But AndyBees is right, moving the pump just a weeee bit changes the timing a lot. You need vag-com to see where it is.

Friend has vag but dont you need to get it to run to check timing? I just went out and turned the timing from full advance to all the way retard tiny bit at a time and nothing changed. When it gets full retard it wont fire at all.

Yeah, you can remove the injectors (if you have a puller) and lines then configure them so you can observe that they are in fact spraying.

To keep fuel from misting all over everything, you can place empty water bottles over them. I've done this for observation purposes.... and, actually, if they function perfectly, there will not be much fuel expelled into the bottles.

Remember, these things are more than capable of over 50 mpg and they don't do it by dumping in loads of fuel.. so, do be surprised if the amount of fuel is small.

I really cant imagine injecters being the prob when it starts and i can even get it to rev before it dies. The codes that are showing up are

The second code one of my friends car has and runs and drives fine so not sure what it means.
17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
P1354 - 35-10 - Electric Malfunction - Intermittent

17970 - Quanity Adjuster (N146)
P1562 - 35-00 - Upper Limit Reached

I am thinking this car had a tuning box at one time because of the wires stripped that go to the ip

We were not saying the injectors were bad, it's just a good way to see well the IP is punching them!

Well, both of those codes relate to the Injection pump.

I must have missed that part about you being able to rev the engine a bit before it dies.... that provides more perspective on the symptoms/issues.

Is the Injector Pump new, junk yard replacement, or rebuild?

I got it off a guy from here. He said it came out of a 80k engine that had a cracked block. Now i was messing with it more and see the green and black wire are spliced together by the key hole. Messed with that and nothing changed. I keep trying to start it and now it will run for a sec then die as before it seemed to fire up die right away.

Stupid question,,,, The radio is not in the car would that do something with the immobilizer even though the light comes on then goes off after key is turned on.

It sounds to me like there is an electrical problem. You could check to see if you get voltage to the solenoid on the back of the injection pump and what that voltage does when you try to start it.

I am not sure how this program works but others for cars has a startup mode then it switches to the idle mode/fuel table. Seems like it starts then when it goes to idle mode it isnt there to make it run. We are new to the vag com

whitedog said:

It sounds to me like there is an electrical problem. You could check to see if you get voltage to the solenoid on the back of the injection pump and what that voltage does when you try to start it.

Click to expand...

The wire going to the shutoff valve on top is at 12v and stays 12 through the start and dying of the car.

Another issue is the vacuum lines are all crap looking but i wouldnt think vacuum would be a cause of this would it? Not sure if any have holes and that was my first thing to do was get all new ones..

Whitedog i found your link to this thread and seems like a fit for my problem.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=378048
Is there a way to check the crank sensor instead of spending 60$ on one?

For what it is worth, the voltage going to the fuel shut-off doesn't stay at 12 volts. When the ignition is first turned ON, it will be 12 or higher and if the ignition is not turned to the start mode, the voltage will begin to drop ...... been there and tested with my ALH Vanagon ..... couldn't believe it, so I tested my 2000 Jetta ...same thing!


The link below has what you need to test the crank position sensor, G28.

http://www.agthompsonfamily.com/vw/BentleyCD-AFP-CheckingEngineSpeedSensor.pdf

AndyBees said:

For what it is worth, the voltage going to the fuel shut-off doesn't stay at 12 volts. When the ignition is first turned ON, it will be 12 or higher and if the ignition is not turned to the start mode, the voltage will begin to drop ...... been there and tested with my ALH Vanagon ..... couldn't believe it, so I tested my 2000 Jetta ...same thing!


The link below has what you need to test the crank position sensor, G28.

http://www.agthompsonfamily.com/vw/BentleyCD-AFP-CheckingEngineSpeedSensor.pdf

Click to expand...

Ya it drops a little while the engine turns over but it doesnt go to 0. I guess i should have said that. Just went out did the test on that link and it shows its bad. Going to get friends out of his car tomorrow and try it.

When I was having starting issues with the ALH in my Vanagon, I did about every test available and looked high and low to solve the problem(s).

Below are some pics showing test results of the voltage at the Fuel Shut-off Solenoid which were repeated numerous times. ...

Comments are at the top of photos.

This is a pic of the voltage about 2 seconds after ignition turned on.



Below, about 5 seconds after ignition turned on..



Below, about 8 to 10 seconds after ignition turned on



Below, about 12 seconds after the ignition turned on



Keep in mind, the above pics were taken with the ignition ON and no cranking of the starter. I did repeat the procedure and got basically the same results. All times are estimates as I was trying to take pics as fast as I could with el-cheapo camera.

Point is, checking volts at the fuel shut-off solenoid doesn't tell you much. In fact, it can cause you to go on a wild goose chase!

Long story short, the starting problem that I was experiencing was poor grounding. However, it had nothing to do with the above volt tests on the fuel shut-of solenoid. Apparently, the results is how the ECU does it's thing. I may repeat these test and observe when the starter is engaged!

The comp kills power to it and i am guessing it is at your 12 sec. Mine does the same thing and only drops to 11 something while i crank it untill i crank it to long and it kills the power like it does on your test. I am sure this is not my issue either like it wasnt yours. I am going to try the crank sensor when my friend shows up here in a few.

Well it wasnt the crank sensor so next step is to take it to a shop. Checked everything i could think of. Maybe computer is bad or something idk

In case you missed it, the volt test at the IP fuel shut-off solenoid was with just the ignition on... no cranking of the starter.

Okay, looks like you are in Janesville ............. is that Wisconsin? If so, JasonTDI (I think that's his handle) should be fairly close to you. I'd get an appointment with him.

The IP is the problem......... used, unknown history with stripped wires!

Please report back and tell us what you found!

AndyBees said:

In case you missed it, the volt test at the IP fuel shut-off solenoid was with just the ignition on... no cranking of the starter.

Okay, looks like you are in Janesville ............. is that Wisconsin? If so, JasonTDI (I think that's his handle) should be fairly close to you. I'd get an appointment with him.

The IP is the problem......... used, unknown history with stripped wires!

Please report back and tell us what you found!

Click to expand...

I have a guy that had a shop working on European, been taking my stuff to him for years when its a messed up prob like i am having now. Talked to him and he thinks its air in ip pump still. Ganna take it up to him this weekend and if he cant get it i see there is 3 other trusted places in madison, yes wisconsin.

agtorange said:

I really cant imagine injecters being the prob when it starts and i can even get it to rev before it dies. The codes that are showing up are

The second code one of my friends car has and runs and drives fine so not sure what it means.
17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
P1354 - 35-10 - Electric Malfunction - Intermittent

17970 - Quanity Adjuster (N146)
P1562 - 35-00 - Upper Limit Reached

Click to expand...

You need to check voltage to all of the wires in the big black connector to the pump. A search on here will give you the specs. Check for my thread on my Golf for info. I bet you have a bad connection somewhere. Sounds like the previous owner had the same problem and came up with the pump at fault. You changed that and still have problems. More likely a broken or corroded wire than 2 bad pumps.

Mike