AC pipe Model Number ?

Hey everyone.
My AC isn't working and clearly has 0 refrigerant in it.


I got the car like this so I don't know exactly who did this but the valve is stripped and I was hoping to but the replacement part myself.
I tried to google it but couldn't find it.


Anyone knows a part number for this?


(Picture not from my car but it's the part I am looking for)

How is the quick disconnect valve stripped?

That whole aluminum boss thing should unscrew from the line and be available at Autozone. These things don't have a Shrader valve. It's a rubber hemisphere that looks like a ball from the outside but isn't.

Sumpin like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-9...teway&sprefix=ac+service+valve,aps,193&sr=8-7

Be you careful in removing it. Might be corroded solid and you'll damage the line. Heat, cold, penetrating oil and care may be required.

some of these actually are welded in place. dont force it. unless you see a hex shape on it, dont try.
as for being stripped, what do you mean?
this is the low side and the gauge set just snaps inplace. I have in the past had to use a clamp to hold them down to get it to press the valve open.
have you tested it to see if it leaks?
there are many places that it can leak from.
there is A LOT of stuff you need to do correctly to do your AC yourself like useing nitrogen to purge the lines and keep the dryer healthy, stuff like that. its not as simple as just filling it with a DIY can from walmart.

Now I get the picture; thanx KLXD.

KLXD said:

That whole aluminum boss thing should unscrew from the line and be available at Autozone. These things don't have a Shrader valve. It's a rubber hemisphere that looks like a ball from the outside but isn't.

Sumpin like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-9...teway&sprefix=ac+service+valve,aps,193&sr=8-7

Be you careful in removing it. Might be corroded solid and you'll damage the line. Heat, cold, penetrating oil and care may be required.

Click to expand...

Thanks a lot!!

Ill order it and see how it goes.

Mongler98 said:

some of these actually are welded in place. dont force it. unless you see a hex shape on it, dont try.
as for being stripped, what do you mean?
this is the low side and the gauge set just snaps inplace. I have in the past had to use a clamp to hold them down to get it to press the valve open.
have you tested it to see if it leaks?
there are many places that it can leak from.
there is A LOT of stuff you need to do correctly to do your AC yourself like useing nitrogen to purge the lines and keep the dryer healthy, stuff like that. its not as simple as just filling it with a DIY can from walmart.

Click to expand...

"some of these actually are welded in place. dont force it. unless you see a hex shape on it, dont try."
Noted, thanks.


"for being stripped, what do you mean?"
Ill upload a picture later, no idea who destroyed it like that. Sadly the 2 first shops who worked on my car were atrocious. First one did the swap, did a decent enough initial job, but would just give me the car unfinished.
The second guy just broke so many things blaming everything on the first shop.
(I now take it to a really good VW/Audi Specialist in Montreal called Heinz Garage. They aren't cheap but they are real professionals)



I am trying to learn as much as possible as I go, in most cases I end up bringing it to a professional but not before looking at all options first and seeing if I can get the tools, time and patience to do it myself.


"have you tested it to see if it leaks?"
The low pressure port is so destroyed that you can't plug in anything in there so sadly no. I don't even know if the compressor will even work.


"there is A LOT of stuff you need to do correctly to do your AC yourself like useing nitrogen to purge the lines and keep the dryer healthy, stuff like that. its not as simple as just filling it with a DIY can from walmart."

To be honest I was hoping to either fix or replace that line myself and try filling it to see where it goes. Obviously bring it to an AC pro if it doesn't work after that. Summer is around the corner and it gets hot and humid here in Montreal...


Thanks for all the help everyone !!!

So, the PSI rests at a max of about 190 give or take PSI on the low side when its off.
seeing as its stripped out and i highly dought you will be able to thread in a new one i suggest you look into "muggy weld" or alumaloy as some call it. its a low melting aluminum brazing rod. Its easy to use and has a MUCH higher strength than this will ever need.
you will need to take the line off but purging with nitrogen is not needed for this welding job.
And i KID you not, JB w3eld putty would also probably work. i have used it a few times on AC lines and holds up well. its jank AF but well, either way if you dont do this the line is trash and you will need a junk yard one to fix it if the threads are gaked up (stripped)
JB weld putty is cheap and so is the muggy weld stuff.

IMO it would be best to go get a line from the junk yard but jank is jank and probably worth the risk if you have the time to fuss with it.

just food for thought.

Don't order that fitting yet! I said "something like this". The correct one may be different. Need to remove yours and find the right one.

Post some pics of yours so we can see the damage. As was asked above, what's stripped???

I'm not clear on what's supposed to be fixed by by glue. If the fitting OD is mangled I'd bet the valve is leaking. You could apply a little pressure through the other service valve to see.

If it is you have nothing to loose by apply some heat and Vice Grips to yours to get it off. I doubt it's not replaceable. You should be able to see the joint between the fitting and the welded boss.

Here are pics...

Ohhhh that’s foooked!!! :0

Wow.

Good thing is you can clearly see the part line where the fitting separates from the line.

that is clearly a shrader valve and NOT a ball end valve like previously posted or replied about. that entire thing is GONE, no salvaging that at all, PERIOD.
i would be amazed if that threads in at all. usually they are welded in and i have never in my life seen one that threads in that does not have a flat spot or hex to it. 90% chance that thing is NOT removable. the ONLY way to fix that is to take it off, and weld on a SHRADER valve or a bung. WAY too much work IMO. looks like your going to the junk yard.

what the actual holy baby jesus was someone thinking when this happened? probably the same thing you think, just change it lol but they are always threaded in with lock tight permanent glue and you have to heat them up. problem is that the line is very thin and you run a HUGE risk of damaging it, the line, not the valve even though its gone.

JUNK YARD TIME BRO

Ya think?

Yes, obviously NOT a rubber ball valve. I was referring to what I've seen on VW AC service valves. Maybe it's already been replaced. Maybe the rubber is gone along with the upper part of the boss. Doesn't look like a normal shrader valve but hard to tell.

The thing's been mangled so the hex is gone. It obviously is designed to be removed since you can see the joint. Whether it will come off or not remains to be seen.

Like I said above: Heat, cold, penetrating oil and care may be required.

PERIOD.