Iron in oil

THese 2 UOA's have TBN's I would expect more after 10,000 miles

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...30-castrol-edge-professional-ll03#Post4955015

tdiman said:

If it is around 8 I’ll be using castrol 507 Instead of liquid Molly


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Just Compared them ones 8.9 is 8.8 Not enough to worry about either one will work


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tdiman said:

Just Compared them ones 8.9 is 8.8 Not enough to worry about either one will work


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Tdiman,

The boron, calcium, zinc, and phosphorus numbers of your UOA are consistent with Castrol edge 5w40 oe (vw 502 spec for gassers). The calcium numbers are 600 ppm higher than what I have seen in castrol long life vw507. At a glance it appears that your sump was filled with the wrong spec oil.

I did buy the Jetta from a Vw dealer when I asked about oil change i was told they used factory oil Vw 507 because i was going to change the oil but after talking to service manger i was reassured correct oil was used . Now i have been doing a oil analysis with Blackstone if there was something up or testing inaccurate i would think they would have said something not right . I really don’t think they used wrong oil but will ask Blackstone lab if there’s a test to tell if oil is correct weight Vw 507

tdiman said:

I did buy the Jetta from a Vw dealer when I asked about oil change i was told they used factory oil Vw 507 because i was going to change the oil but after talking to service manger i was reassured correct oil was used . Now i have been doing a oil analysis with Blackstone if there was something up or testing inaccurate i would think they would have said something not right . I really don’t think they used wrong oil but will ask Blackstone lab if there’s a test to tell if oil is correct weight Vw 507

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They can tell you if it is a 5W30 oil but they can't tell you if it is a 507/504 approved oil.

This oil has boron in it which I have never seen in a VW spec. oil( not that that is a problem as it reduces ash). That also helps keep the TBN up.

Low ash oils like the 507 oil have reduced Zddp(zinc/phosphorous), about 650 to 750 ppm phosphorous to allow for a reduced amount of calcium detergent, usually well under 2000 ppm especially if it is a boron calcium combination.

Anyways the 108 iron is unusual for this engine unless it is low mileage and should be almost broken in at 50,000 miles. So the question is. Is this a low mileage engine being broken in?

The fact that you are even considering MolyS2 is worrisome. This is a lot of sulphur and would not be good.

I assume you have drained and replaced filter and oil. I would drop a line to Terry Dyson and ask him to provide a plan to analyse your oil and determine what is causing the possible excessive oil, (edit to), iron wear.

www.dysonanalysis.com

I have mix a quart of liquid Molly Extended life 4200 into the score Blackstone has said no need for oil change at this point so I’m going to continue to 20,000 and check again the iron was not enough to worry about at this point


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Most of all these miles are highway I have added 1 quart of oil also car is let Idling when I go places I have a dog so I leave the car running to keep her warm or cool this could be where we’re seeing the iron coming from extensive Idling but at this point parts per million or not enough to do any damage at 100 maybe if they were in the 300s I would change the oil


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No, you have not said if this engine is being broke in or not.

Nor have you said you were idling excessively to cause the wear as blackstone suggests.

Idling usually causes oil dilution with fuel which then causes wear. These are all things that can be seen in the oil analysis so why would they suggest such when there is no fuel dilution.

Ignoring the iron wear makes oil analysis redundant unless it can be logically explained.

Both you and Blackstone are conspiring to ruin this engine.

Have no idea if Engine is broken in I purchased used at 40,000 . Also I’m doing oil analysis to project the future of the engine with the recommendations they’re saying there’s nothing wrong at this point


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Although I have been thinking about changing it just to clear up the fact that I want to make sure the correct oil was in car that away I’ll know . Also what is your recommendation for types oil factory ?


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your to fast on your replys i can't keep up LOL.

Well that is interesting. How many hours of idling do you think would cause this 10x normal oil wear.

Full break in is usually at 60,000 miles under normal circumstances. I couldn't make out the engine milage on your oil analysis.

There’s days when I travel that I don’t turn it off for 12 to 15 hours


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Ok, the engine is being broke in and the added idling and probly low number of oil changes means there is an accumilation of iron left over from previous oil.

I would want to change the oil from the oil pan to clean this accumalation out and start again and then do as the oil analysis dictates

I’m thinking of using just the VW oil 507 what’s your thoughts


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Do u think when I did oil sample through dip stick maybe I went to bottom of sump and took sample where maybe this iron is living


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It's very possible. Might want to drop the oil pan, clean it and start over

tdiman said:

Do u think when I did oil sample through dip stick maybe I went to bottom of sump and took sample where maybe this iron is living


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Here is the type of results most people like to see #3474 on oil analysis thread.

I am suggesting you need to get those type of results to enable you to confidently go to the increase in mileage.

Now my last post to you was about draining as much of this iron from normal breakin which can carry foward, by fully draining from the oil drain plug.

Some drain their oil from the top(suck through dip stick) which is fine as long as you know your previous oil history. There is considerable oil left this way and it mixes with the fresh.

How you took your sample is good as Blackstone states. I think your fine but let's be sure.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5413561&postcount=3474