2003 Beettle injector pump seal replacement seal total fail (video)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDTvGO_kdGA
I reordered a new seal kit today.

The install seemed to go just fine. The only thing out of the ordinary was when I was down the just the 55mm key bolt holding the output head on, I lost all the spring tension with about 2mm of play left. I threw the top right bolt on temporarily to stabilize until I had the new seal partially on. Then I put the lower left bolt in place (not tightly, just to the point of tension from the internal parts of the pump) and removed the top right for the seal to clear. I replaced the three bolts to the point of tension and then took of the key bolt and guided the seal to the grove and then put the whole thing back together. I did quarter turns evenly until the bolts were tight. I never felt anything other then the initial tension when tightening it.

My question is, should I have had tension with the seated key bolt? Nothing seemed to fall or anything out of the ordinary. How much past having no spring tension before things start to fall out? Are we talking a couple of millimeters or 1/2 an inch? I was super paranoid and am thinking that the seal was not seated properly underneath. I ordered another seal kit today and will give it another go when it gets here.

Also, what did not seem clear in the procedure, is that I was supposed to have the 55mm bolt go into the top right (right of the solenoid) hole and the blue guide jammed. It went all the way through the head on the top left whole so I did the procedure as if I was working on a AHU engine. I wonder if the thread depth is a little deeper.

Anyway, any input would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Scott

Looks to me like you pinched the o-ring and severed it.

Figured that

I figured that, I guess I am more concerned about stuff falling out when I try this again. I lost all spring tension with about 2mm of play with the key bolt. I threw another bolt in the last time. Am I ok to do this with no tension? I already set the pump at the top of the stroke and will try again as soon as the next seal gets here.

Thanks,
Scott

It reaal really helps to have the QA off the pump body when you're backing that head out. (you must have VCDS on hand whenever the QA is loosened or removed). This way you can actually look at the plunger and cam plate. "is the shim still there?" -look at it- "yes it is."

Also, I use two bolts to stabilize the head when swapping the head seal in. You really want to avoid wobble or movement.

Don't screw with doing it this way, pull the injector pump from the car, set the pump up with the head end facing up in a vise, and let gravity hold the rollers and cam in place, then bolt on the head with the o-ring. Don't risk dropping rollers and wrecking/cracking the plunger/head, it is very expensive.

Fixed! The seal was severed when tightening. 2nd time was a charm. The turbo seems to have a waste gate stuck open now. Stupid turbo...

Scott_Martinez said:

Fixed! The seal was severed when tightening. 2nd time was a charm. The turbo seems to have a waste gate stuck open now. Stupid turbo...

Click to expand...

high five.