VW probably didn't include it because it wasn't necessary. These cars start fine, as do many other rotary pump diesels (Mercedes come to mind) without any assistance for the rotary pump.
Where's the OEM lift pump on your Liberty? Attached to the engine? My '04 5.9 CR Cummins had an external lift pump attached to the back/side of the engine. It was a poor design that was recalled because the mighty C would just shake that thing into failure. The solution was the in tank lift pump. Hasn't given me any grief since (I believe it was done in 08, I've had the truck since 2012).
OK. Yeah the CP3 is attached to the timing gear housing on my truck, like you said, it's meant to push, not pull, but if my in tank crapped out, it would get me home. As long as the fuel has started it can pull. Although it's not good for it. Ah ok so your inline pump was down by the tank. Yeah in my OEM stock form, it was bolted to the block. Bad choice. No manual priming though for my system though, just bump the key a few times to purge air.
Ha, I don't need anything else to work on. Too many projects, not enough time or space.
307,xxx miles.Nice! Thats a lot accomplished in one swoop. Love those time serts. I need to do #4. No idea if it's been done in 160k miles. Still shifts smoothly though.Just finished my sons 2000 timing belt change along with a bunch of other work.
1. Installed 100k T Belt kit
2. replace broken down pipe with a spare one I had repaired ( pipe broke off behind cat ).
3. replaced damaged power steering pump pulley ( no idea how ) with one off spare engine.
4. drained and refilled transmission fluid with synchromesh.
5. changed engine oil and filter.
6. installed an oil catch can setup on his car.
7. replaced split 90 degree boost pipe by ASV valve ( would go into limp mode under moderate throttle )
8. Had to install time serts into engine mount when helicoils pulled out.
Car now drives and shifts nice.......quiet now too
IBW has a pretty good fleet too.
Yeah... Don't really want to try to see how many I can get... I counted, it's at 11 now! 4 TDIs, plus another that's going to be a tdi (1980 early westy caddy) and another caddy which has the 1.6 NA diesel with a turbo." as this makes my car count up past 10. "
Keep it up and you'll catch up to Oilhammer.
Just as well I don't live on a couple of acres, lol.
I've heard bad things about helicoils. Never used them before, but used timeserts several times with great success. I get to do the same 100k t-belt kit tomorrow or Sunday.Just finished my sons 2000 timing belt change along with a bunch of other work.
1. Installed 100k T Belt kit
2. replace broken down pipe with a spare one I had repaired ( pipe broke off behind cat ).
3. replaced damaged power steering pump pulley ( no idea how ) with one off spare engine.
4. drained and refilled transmission fluid with synchromesh.
5. changed engine oil and filter.
6. installed an oil catch can setup on his car.
7. replaced split 90 degree boost pipe by ASV valve ( would go into limp mode under moderate throttle )
8. Had to install time serts into engine mount when helicoils pulled out.
Car now drives and shifts nice.......quiet now too
Ive usually had pretty good luck with Heli coils before. When I got my sons car 10 years ago and did the first TB change that’s when the engine mount bolts first pulled out , back then I hadn’t heard about time serts before but did know about Heli coils.
The previous owner of the wrecked car made some comment about a stripped bolt hole during the timing belt removal. I think it ended up being one of the holes for the accessory belt tensioner or something, so it was a pretty easy timesert to find, but just as a precautionary, I ordered all I needed from amazon (and returned, because I didn't use) for the the engine mount holes. Maybe they had a limited selection about a decade ago, I dunno. Most professional mechanics I know swear by Timesert and refuse to use Helicoil.
I've used both. The time serts are a lot better, especially for going into aluminum. I keep the m12x1.5 at the shop for those mounts, though my dad's car has a different pitch time serts set and just uses grade 10.9 metric bolts, instead of the tty bolts. I've heard one of the common reasons for messing up those threads is using an impact wrench to remove the bolts, which is what I used the first time I did my dad's car (it was mine at the time) I messed up the threads and reused the old bolts... One of the bolts broke, and the other one pulled out most of the way after about 100 miles. Thankfully the engine didn't fall, and I caught it in time. I then used a ratchet strap to hold the engine up for the rest of the 100 miles home... I was going to use heli-coils for repairing it, but nobody around had the right ones in stock, so I headed to a further out town and decided to stop by a VW shop that mostly specialized in air cooled to see if he had any ideas. He actually had a repaired mount on his shelf that had time-serts in it. He had been experimenting with it, and the fastenal didn't have the right pitch in stock, but it was the right price and worked for me.
I've seen his place on google maps. Looks a lot like my town actually. And lucky you on seeing him for a head rebuild. I've thought about doing the same (mail or deliver in person) for a port/cam job, though with what's happened recently, I don't think I'll be doing this until maybe the Fall.
Yeah, I'm lucky he's only two hours away from me. I'll be getting one of his cams for my AHU. I have a Colt cam in my golf, mainly because I got it for a good price.