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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old February 18th, 2014, 08:49   #1
airman1
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TDI(s): 2001 tdi
Default Timing Belt Change. Starts perfectly, But no power and can't advance timing further.

Here is my issue. Purchased a 2000 manual jetta TDI with 161K miles. Last belt change was at 63,000 miles. I Feelt lucky no damage occurred while driving the thing home. I replaced belt, pulleys, tension-er, with Good quality parts from ID parts. Followed VW Timing procedure and everything went without issues ( I have all the appropriate tools from my 2001 jetta). The engine starts perfectly, but low power and no turbo boost. I figured of course fuel pump timing is needed. So after warming up the engine, I hooked up the Vag-com went to 000 block "basic settings". Block 2 reads 30 and block 9 reads 120. I tried to advance timing by rotating counter clockwise to elevate block 2 but it was almost out of room in the pump sprocket. I rotated it until it bottomed out on the pump sprocket and my timing advanced to 38 in block 2 and 127 in block 9. What did I miss? Thanks for your help....
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Old February 18th, 2014, 09:03   #2
Curious Chris
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If you cannot advance it that means most likely you are off by one tooth on the timing belt. This is usually caused by incorrect pin placement injection pump or failure to lock down the pump, cam, and flywheel.
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Old February 18th, 2014, 09:43   #3
airman1
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Thanks. I am thinking since the belt had 100k miles on it, maybe the last tech that messed with it adjusted the timing to off set the belt stretch. Do I just lock down the head again, set the timing mark to top dead center, pin the pump, loosen the tension er, pop the cam cog, then center pump adjustment gaps (the three bolts) and then move the pump gear up one cog?
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Old February 18th, 2014, 09:46   #4
50harleyrider
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You should always set the IP timing in the center of the adjustment prior to replacing the belt and lock it down before locking the cam and crank. It had probably been adjusted on the last belt change so you want that adjustment room maximized either way. Basically same thing Curious Chris is saying. You may have to move it a little to get the belt on. Just remember, your belt tensioner will be take up about 1 tooth of belt slop when it's engaged so be careful! That's where the touch comes in and folks mess up by a tooth. My philosophy is check three times before firing it up including a complete rotation of the engine!

Last edited by 50harleyrider; February 18th, 2014 at 10:00.
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Old February 18th, 2014, 13:46   #5
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If its running fine before removing the belt, always pin the injection pump first. Then all the guesswork is out. Verify after the pin is in the pump that the flywheel is at TDC then lock the cam, go through the replacement routine. When stringing the belt, advance the pump pulley as far as you can until the slots hit the bolts, install the cam pulley with the bolt 1 thread from being finger tight, tension the tensioner. As the tensioner gets to the proper setting, you will notice the injection pump pulley retarding CCW, once tensioned then make sure the injection pump pulley bolts are now centered in the window. Torque everything properly, rotate engine by hand 2X then reassemble everything.

Your timing should land in the graph using this method and you will have full range of adjustability if you need to fine tune timing.

BTW-to advance timing the injection pump shaft needs to be moved clockwise.
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Last edited by dogdots; February 19th, 2014 at 05:15. Reason: typo
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Old February 18th, 2014, 17:15   #6
dweisel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogdots View Post

BTW-to advance timing the injection pump pulley needs to be moved clockwise.
Actually you need to move the ip shaft nut with a 22mm wrench clockwise to advance timing. Moving the ip sprocket clockwise will retard timing.
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Old February 19th, 2014, 05:14   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dweisel View Post
Actually you need to move the ip shaft nut with a 22mm wrench clockwise to advance timing. Moving the ip sprocket clockwise will retard timing.
Yes you are correct. Got in a hurry typing and my brain outran my fingers
7/8" wrench fits on the shaft nut also
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Old February 19th, 2014, 08:10   #8
airman1
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That was the problem. Off one notch on the ip. Now she runs great. Thank you so much for your help. By the way were are you running you pump timing. The TD timing proceedure indicates 70. Mine is running between 68-72. Thanks
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