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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old June 30th, 2014, 14:56   #1
frugality
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Default P2015 intake manifold flap fix how-to

This is somewhat of a how-to for the error code: P2015 intake manifold flap; implausible signal.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT, 15Jan2015:

I should have edited this 1st post a long time ago, to save future folks from having to wade through a bunch of old information to get to what is current and most useful information.

P2015 code = a signal that points to an error with a butterfly valve actuator in your intake manifold. Over time, a limiting stop on the travel of the motor and butterfly valve assembly wears down, to the point that the valve assembly will no longer actuate. (The purpose of the flap/valve assembly is to provide swirl to the air as it enters the intake at low/idle RPMs for improved emissions. As I recall, it also actuates above 3000rpm, not sure if it is for emissions or performance reasons.) The linkage that connects the motor to the flap assembly binds up.

Solutions:

1) Since the motor and/or linkage are not available for purchase separately, the first folks with problems had to resort to buying a complete new intake manifold for something over $300, plus labor if it was done by a shop.

2) Some folks tried various 'hack' fixes, as I did, following the youtube video below, in an effort to get the linkage to not bind. DO NOT BOTHER WITH THESE METHODS, as they are not effective long-term, if you can get them to work initially.

3) Jim from Dieselgeek investigated the problem and sleuthed the cause: wear of the hard stop (er, not-so-hard stop) caused the flap assembly to over-travel and bind up. He developed an aluminum bracket to provide a secondary hard stop; a genuine 'hard' stop. Implementation of this fix has proved to be a quick and easy solution to many if not most P2015 codes. And a good number of folks have added the bracket as a preventative fix against what will likely be an eventual problem down the road. While the initial design worked well in most cases, a few of us had difficulty installing the bracket, and Dieselgeek used customer feedback to revise the design, which is even more robust.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/P2015_Inta...sor_s/1900.htm

No software (VCDS/VAG-COM) is needed for this issue. After the bracket is installed, the check-engine light will go out on its own after a few starts/shut-downs of the vehicle, or after a day or so.

Happy flapping, and thanks, Jim, for the solution!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Initial post of this thread follows:

There is a series of butterfly valves in the intake manifold that create swirl at idle, and above 3000rpm. (going off of memory on that) A motor works a plastic linkage, which actuates these valves. Over time, the linkage wears and begins to bind, resulting in the valves not being actuated, and resulting in a check-engine light. As of this writing, it seems the only replacement part you can get is the entire intake manifold assembly, complete with motor and linkage, for a list price of $418 (1stvwparts has it for $301.)

A guy named Ray Martinez put together a video clip for his fix:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrVFpYzMX3g
He grinds a groove in the ball of the ball-and-socket joint, and inserts an E-ring snap-ring into it to keep the plastic linkage from getting cocked, and binding.

The joint should be forward (forward with respect to the car) when the car is idling, as seen in the picture below. If your flap is jammed, when the car is idling and the joint is in the rearward (in-car) position, prodding the linkage with a screwdriver wedged against the intake manifold casting should get the linkage to 'pop', it'll be freed, and will pivot forward. This was my case, the same as Ray Martinez'.

Tools needed:
* T30 Torx bit and short wratchet extension. Mine was 1/4" drive.
* Screwdrivers to pry and poke with.
* Needle-nose pliers to attach the E-clip.

Parts needed:
* E-clips. I believe they were 7/16".
I got a kit of fasteners from an auto parts store, and it had only 3 of the size I needed. I went to an Ace hardware store and got more. The Ace ones were thinner, which I think is probably better. Easier to install, and maybe I could have made a smaller groove than using a hacksaw blade.

Here are my mediocre pictures that I took on the fly. But it'll give you an idea of what you're getting into anyway.

1) Remove engine cover.

2) Disconnect electrical connector (not disconnected in this picture.) Note that sometimes it helps to push the connector INward, then pull out.
3) It helps to move the wire harness out of the way. See the plastic wire harness connector on top of the oil filter cap in this picture. You can get one side of the barb out of the hole by pushing down on the barb with a screwdriver. For the backside one, use the box end of a small box-end wrench to pull the barb toward you.
4) Remove (3) T30 torx screws. You may note that there is some spring force that pushes the motor off the first 6-8mm as you loosen the screws.
5) Unhook the small spring, first from the manifold end (which is free), then from the motor end (the spring wraps a little more than 180 degrees, so it is kind of trapped on the motor end.)
6) Pop the linkage off of the motor; it's a press-fit.

So you should have this:
(the long end of the spring hooks to the motor, if you forget)


And the engine with the motor removed:



Ignore the dremel bit in this picture; I decided not to use this to make the groove.
I used a common flat washer to use as a guide for cutting the groove. The ball of the motor is about flush with the top surface of the washer.


Mounted it in a vise:


And used a hack saw blade to cut a groove about 3/4 of the way around the ball:


Resulting in this: (sorry for the bad pic)


And test-fitting the E-clip:

The clip has to be attached after re-assembling the motor in the vehicle.

Installation is basically the reverse:
7) Get the motor in position and press the linkage onto the ball.
8) Hook the long end of the spring to the motor.
9) Hook the short end of the spring onto the shaft on the intake manifold.
- keep an eye on it as you get the 3 screws started by hand, to make sure it stays on its groove.
10) Install the 3 torx screws by hand, and then tighten in an alternating pattern, as you're pushing against a light spring force as it gets close to home.
11) Start the car.
12) Use screwdriver to get the linkage, which is probably jammed, to move to the forward (in-car) position.
13) Attempt to install E-clip.
14) Drop clip down into engine compartment.
15) Repeat 13-14 until you get it right.


Unfortunately it seems this must be done with the engine running. Using VCDS, you can run an output test, but it pivots it forward, holds it for just a couple seconds, pivots it back, repeats..... So you have to have the car running to get it in the forward position. Unless you can find some way to pull the thing forward with the engine off, which I didn't attempt.

In VCDS, to work the valve:
* Select Control Module
* 01 - Engine
* Output Tests
* select 'Intake Manifold Valve' from the pull-down menu
* Start
If you're doing this to test it before the fix, use screwdriver wedged between intake manifold casting and linkage to get the linkage freed up.

Use VCDS under "OBD-II" to check codes and clear codes.

I only did this today, and it's 'held' through running some errands, but I don't know if the E-clip will come off over time. This is a stop-gap fix, to save an ~$700 repair bill. If it doesn't hold up long-term, then I get the intake manifold replaced.

Hope this helps......
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Last edited by frugality; January 15th, 2016 at 19:31.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 14:57   #2
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* reserved for any after-thoughts *
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Old July 6th, 2014, 20:17   #3
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If you're capable of this repair, then you're capable of replacing the intake manifold yourself. It takes less than 1 hour with a few hand tools and $300 for the part.
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Old July 6th, 2014, 20:35   #4
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I may have to do just that at some point, if the E-clip fix doesn't hold up long term.

(I love someone's signature here, quoting Red Green: "This is only temporary....unless it works!)

However I looked at the how-to to R&R the intake manifold, and it looks like considerably more work, more parts, more tools.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=381933

The above linkage fix didn't take too long, maybe an hour at a leisurely pace. And if it didn't work, I bolt the motor back on and go to the hardware store for more E-clips. (which I needed to do, after dropping all 3 from the kit I had )

It was a 7-hour job to pull and clean the intake manifold on my ALH TDI, so I'm sure I could handle the R&R of the intake manifold. However, being a single guy with a single car, I don't like to tackle the big projects these days unless I'm absolutely sure of what I'm digging into. Running out for parts or tools isn't as fun when the car's in pieces.
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Old July 9th, 2014, 13:29   #5
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(12-09-14): I have a new CNC machined bracket for limiting arm movement to the same amount as a stock, brand new manifold. The CR intake manifold and/or the V157 motor does not need to be replaced with this bracket. You will only need to affix the bracket to the motor and bolt it together. This is all done on a cold engine with the manifold and flapper motor in place. The flapper motor cannot travel out of range with this bracket in place despite how much wear might be on your linkage arm.

Here is a YouTube video of the P2015 Repair kit install. Here is the P2015 fix kit.







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Last edited by corrado tdi; February 9th, 2015 at 14:18.
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Old July 10th, 2014, 09:51   #6
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Nice work!
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Old September 6th, 2014, 23:18   #7
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Update:

Got an intermittent and now a constant CEL for the same issue. Using VCDS and running the valve manually, it's sticking again. E-clip still in place. Not sure why it's getting hung up.

Debating on whether to attempt the intake manifold replacement myself, spend $750 on a local shop's replacement, or try this:
http://www.gruvenparts.com/2-0-tdi-b...m-for-vw-audi/

That link is pointing to the OE plastic linkage. It seems the new linkage is a 'best guess', but is not trialed as far as I can tell. So I could try it and maybe throw away $100, or just spend $750 and figure I'm good for another 150k, or longer if VW has made engineering changes to the intake flap actuator in the intervening years....
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Old September 8th, 2014, 06:46   #8
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Many years ago I worked at Dodge dealership. From time to time I would help our lead mechanic. One day he said hand me that Jesus clip. What the heck is that? That e clip over there. Why do you call it a Jesus clip? Because every time I work with one of these I always wind up saying Jesus @*+^$ !! Its amazing how far they fly.
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Old October 4th, 2014, 22:01   #9
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What are these intake flaps used for? Any reason you can't just remove them and then have them programed out either via vcds or in your tune coding by someone like Malone?

I guess I'm unclear of their function, but they look superfluous to me...
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Old October 5th, 2014, 10:45   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrado tdi View Post
I have a fix clip for this problem that I'm in the finishing prototype phase of development. It will not require removing anything to install. Will post pics and more details on Friday.
That's good to hear. I hope you will have it available soon, I will order a timing belt kit from you within a couple of months and wouid like to order it together.
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Old October 5th, 2014, 18:26   #11
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First time posting. Hoping to help others with same symptoms (but with different solution). 2009 TDI 86K miles. Intermittent P2015 after a few weeks became solid. Flap motor appeared dead through VCDS but if I held the actuator arm about 30 degrees from resting it would move during VCDS output tests. Here's a link to the real hero: https://sites.google.com/site/p2015fix/home Look carefully at picture and notice screw through boss stopping full return of actuating arm. Was easy to drill through AL and yes you need a long screw to get about 30-45 degrees movement from arm's normal resting position (in my case). Remove arm spring after first loosening flap motor unit for better access. I used forcepts clamped onto the spring so I wouldn't lose it. With arm in wrong start position the actuator fails the self-test when the car is started hence the instant CEL. Didn't do any mods relating to e-clip solution.
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Old November 14th, 2014, 13:20   #12
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See post #5 ^^^
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Old November 14th, 2014, 18:35   #13
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I want to try this out, and I have the perfect candidate for a test. If this is a fix, I'll sell the crap out of them.
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Old November 14th, 2014, 18:40   #14
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I'll call on Monday...Jim
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Old November 15th, 2014, 10:14   #15
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Jim,

Are you now offering these for sale?
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