r11
Veteran Member
Got flashing coil lights. Read the codes using the bluetooth ODB reader ($10-someting on Amazon) - P045e, P045f.
Our engines have 2 ERG valves. One is in front, attached to the intake manifold. That one is called EGR 1, aka "high pressure valve" and is fairly inexpensive ($180-ish @ indy parts dealers) and ez to remove. Mine was replaced under wty in 1st year of ownership. I'd call it "direct" impingement valve, as it takes dirty exhaust and mixes that into the intake manifold - adding controlled amt of exhaust into pressurised air supply, past turbo.
Replacing requires draining coolant, removing the intercooler and then you remove the TB and EGR valve as assembly. Not clear if intercooler could just be unbolted, decoupled from TB and suspended, w/o requiring coolant flush.
The EGR 2 is one below the turbo. They call it "erg cooler", as it is an entire assy with EGR valve built into it. This one takes cleaner exhaust, past the DPF, cools it using the engine coolant, and feeds it into low-pressure air supply before the turbo. Clearly, taking dirty exhaust and feeding that to turbo (on air-side of it) would kill it in no time flat.
More expensive and much larger labor effort to replace. Need to drain coolant, remove DPF (which requires removal of Cat, dropping of subframe).
The valve actuator electric motor has position sensor, so it knows when the valve is open/closed. Failure to open/close is what is caught by ECM and reported by flashing coil symbol. Not clear if EGR valve failure can put your car into limp mode. Mine happened about 4 times in as many days and I didn't go into limp mode. The 4th time it happened, I started getting chimes.
The EGR is actuated under low engine load, with the goal of reducing NOx. In my case, all 4 times, I was going downhill, with my foot off the accelerator.
So there you have it.
Luckily, I did buy VW Platinum extended wty. Which I wished I didnt, till this happened. This failure is covered by wty.
Dealer mech has the tools to test the valve in the shop.
Our engines have 2 ERG valves. One is in front, attached to the intake manifold. That one is called EGR 1, aka "high pressure valve" and is fairly inexpensive ($180-ish @ indy parts dealers) and ez to remove. Mine was replaced under wty in 1st year of ownership. I'd call it "direct" impingement valve, as it takes dirty exhaust and mixes that into the intake manifold - adding controlled amt of exhaust into pressurised air supply, past turbo.
Replacing requires draining coolant, removing the intercooler and then you remove the TB and EGR valve as assembly. Not clear if intercooler could just be unbolted, decoupled from TB and suspended, w/o requiring coolant flush.
The EGR 2 is one below the turbo. They call it "erg cooler", as it is an entire assy with EGR valve built into it. This one takes cleaner exhaust, past the DPF, cools it using the engine coolant, and feeds it into low-pressure air supply before the turbo. Clearly, taking dirty exhaust and feeding that to turbo (on air-side of it) would kill it in no time flat.
More expensive and much larger labor effort to replace. Need to drain coolant, remove DPF (which requires removal of Cat, dropping of subframe).
The valve actuator electric motor has position sensor, so it knows when the valve is open/closed. Failure to open/close is what is caught by ECM and reported by flashing coil symbol. Not clear if EGR valve failure can put your car into limp mode. Mine happened about 4 times in as many days and I didn't go into limp mode. The 4th time it happened, I started getting chimes.
The EGR is actuated under low engine load, with the goal of reducing NOx. In my case, all 4 times, I was going downhill, with my foot off the accelerator.
So there you have it.
Luckily, I did buy VW Platinum extended wty. Which I wished I didnt, till this happened. This failure is covered by wty.
Dealer mech has the tools to test the valve in the shop.
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