northwestapp
Member
I was wondering about wireing, would like to do the same but don't know much on computer, pump wireing, can you help or email me horton@blackfoot.net with information
TDI in a Toyota pickup
- Thread starter e*clipse
- Start date
I'll be getting to the wiring problems in the next few weeks.
You can simplify things for yourself by getting a wiring harness & ECU with the engine. I got just the engine, and spent a fair amount of time locating the harness & especially the ECU. Regarding the ECU, I would recommend getting one for the US market, as even the early european ones had immobilizers built in. Newer engines/ECU's for the US market also have the immobilizer. It is possible to defeat the immobilizer, but this is out of my expertise, so I am having it done for me. (I got a European ECU)
Regarding the harness: Initially, I was going to build one from scratch, using only the necessary connections. There are schematics in the Bentley service manuals. However, there are many specialized plugs and connectors and I felt the cost of all these (If I could get them) would far outweigh the price of a used wiring harness.
Here is a good website for reference:
http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/
It has good info on wiring, etc.
I'm not sure what you mean about the pump. Are you referring to the injection pump?
You can simplify things for yourself by getting a wiring harness & ECU with the engine. I got just the engine, and spent a fair amount of time locating the harness & especially the ECU. Regarding the ECU, I would recommend getting one for the US market, as even the early european ones had immobilizers built in. Newer engines/ECU's for the US market also have the immobilizer. It is possible to defeat the immobilizer, but this is out of my expertise, so I am having it done for me. (I got a European ECU)
Regarding the harness: Initially, I was going to build one from scratch, using only the necessary connections. There are schematics in the Bentley service manuals. However, there are many specialized plugs and connectors and I felt the cost of all these (If I could get them) would far outweigh the price of a used wiring harness.
Here is a good website for reference:
http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/
It has good info on wiring, etc.
I'm not sure what you mean about the pump. Are you referring to the injection pump?
jon_7248
Veteran Member
Man if your going this far I would have already thrown a nice dual transfer case on there as well. I cant even imaging would it would be like to have 200lbs torque at 2.28 low range reduction, let alone 4.71s! But then again, I would do that cause I love offroading. Currently rebuilding a 4Runner right now. Wish I could do diesel.
VNT 15 fitment
Got my VNT-15 turbo today.
The good: 1) The turbo's in good shape, but I'm going to clean it anyway.
2) Fit around the front engine mount is pretty good. After rotating the compressor ~ 90* I'll just have to grind a little off the mount.
The bad: The exhaust manifold contacts my "new" intake manifold at the EGR output. It should be fixable by deleting the EGR & installing a low profile blockoff plate. A bracket in the intake manifold will have to be removed.
The ugly: Starter contacts the lower rear edge of the turbine housing. The only solution I can see right now is one of the smaller starters discussed previously.
Comparison pics coming soon.
I've also wrapped up the transfer case rebuild. The case had water in it, but I'm not sure how it got in. I've ordered output seals from Marlin and carefully resealed the case with FIPG.
Got my VNT-15 turbo today.
The good: 1) The turbo's in good shape, but I'm going to clean it anyway.
2) Fit around the front engine mount is pretty good. After rotating the compressor ~ 90* I'll just have to grind a little off the mount.
The bad: The exhaust manifold contacts my "new" intake manifold at the EGR output. It should be fixable by deleting the EGR & installing a low profile blockoff plate. A bracket in the intake manifold will have to be removed.
The ugly: Starter contacts the lower rear edge of the turbine housing. The only solution I can see right now is one of the smaller starters discussed previously.
Comparison pics coming soon.
I've also wrapped up the transfer case rebuild. The case had water in it, but I'm not sure how it got in. I've ordered output seals from Marlin and carefully resealed the case with FIPG.
CFM
Veteran Member
What year/model did that intake manifold come from? I have a '97 1Z/AHU that I'd like use one of those on, looks like a much more efficient design in regards to air flow. Do you have any pics of the manifold after you got done reshaping the intake ports?
The manifold came from a 1990 VW Jetta. Apparently it also came on 1988-1992 Golfs & Jettas (spark ignition engines - mine came with a throttle body)
Regarding porting, here are some pics:
Two ports close to complete:
This pic illustrates the problem:
Even though it's not completely gasket matched, the intake manifold has very little material around the top corners. I am worried that this will cause sealing issues, so I am going to have material added before I proceed further.
Ok, here's what's up with the turbos.
Comparison of the 1Z's turbo and the VNT-15:
1) The input and outlet of the compressor are the same.
2) The outlet of the VNT turbine differs primarily by the lack of a bypass flapper.
3) The manifold for the VNT-15 looks like it will flow better. It is a 2 into 1 design rather than a log design.
4) The bolt holes and exhaust ports match perfectly.
5) The VNT 15 tucks in closer to the block than the stock one, but does drop down further.
The main advantage of the VNT-15 will be better boost control and better low-end torque because the VNT spools quicker. I won't get better flow. I am having the ECU programming modified to control the VNT.
Here is how it fits in my application:
Clearance between the turbo, block and motor mount:
By rotating the compressor between 45* to 90* I will be able to clear my motor mount. Can the VNT's acutator be rotated 90*?? ** Edit - it appears it would be difficult to rotate the actuator. As you can see from the pic, it would be possible to rotate the compressor so that is points straight to the left (90*) **edit
Starter interference:
After E-mailing ACME adapters about the problem, their suggestion was to use the 1KW gear reduction starter. It is approximately 1.5" shorter. They weren't familiar with the 1KW starter for Landcruisers.
Intake manifold interference:
If you are running the stock intake manifold, this should not be an issue. I am goint to cut off the bracket on the intake manifold and use low profile bolts to fasten an EGR blockoff plate.
Comparison of the 1Z's turbo and the VNT-15:
1) The input and outlet of the compressor are the same.
2) The outlet of the VNT turbine differs primarily by the lack of a bypass flapper.
3) The manifold for the VNT-15 looks like it will flow better. It is a 2 into 1 design rather than a log design.
4) The bolt holes and exhaust ports match perfectly.
5) The VNT 15 tucks in closer to the block than the stock one, but does drop down further.
The main advantage of the VNT-15 will be better boost control and better low-end torque because the VNT spools quicker.
I won't get better flow. I am having the ECU programming modified to control the VNT.Here is how it fits in my application:
Clearance between the turbo, block and motor mount:
By rotating the compressor between 45* to 90* I will be able to clear my motor mount. Can the VNT's acutator be rotated 90*?? ** Edit - it appears it would be difficult to rotate the actuator. As you can see from the pic, it would be possible to rotate the compressor so that is points straight to the left (90*) **edit
Starter interference:
After E-mailing ACME adapters about the problem, their suggestion was to use the 1KW gear reduction starter. It is approximately 1.5" shorter. They weren't familiar with the 1KW starter for Landcruisers.
Intake manifold interference:
If you are running the stock intake manifold, this should not be an issue. I am goint to cut off the bracket on the intake manifold and use low profile bolts to fasten an EGR blockoff plate.
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CFM
Veteran Member
Thanks for the information...I'll have to keep my eyes open for one of those. Shouldn't be a big deal for me to TIG some additional material to the top of the port flange and have it milled flat again.
Spulen81
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2004
- Location
- Warners, NY
Hmmm so what is the clearance difference between the K03 and VNT-15? Do you have more with the VNT-15? Can you take a comparison pic while you have it all apart?
Good idea - this will buy some space. I've already removed the bracket on the intake manifold and there is now about 1/8" clearance. The location is almost ideal for an EGT probe. If get somewhat clever, I could thread the plate for an EGT probe.
Right now I'm working on getting the VNT apart - fantastic instructions for that are in the TDI101 section. Everything seems to work just fine - I can just clean/protect the turbo & mod the manifold. I'll have the manifold welded & surfaced at a local machine shop. (welding aluminum & cast iron are weak points for me)
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Spulen81
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2004
- Location
- Warners, NY
A shot of the KO3 on the engine with the starter like you have the VNT-15 pictured would be great.
Maybe a measurement from the one or two of the exhaust studs to the lower most point and a another from the turbine discharge to the end of the block.
Thanks!
Maybe a measurement from the one or two of the exhaust studs to the lower most point and a another from the turbine discharge to the end of the block.
Thanks!
turbo comparison measurements, etc
Ok, here are some comparison measurements, etc.
1st, a shot of the K03 turbo and the 1.4KW starter:
Note that there is more overlap, as the turbo is located further back. However, it drops down less, so there is some clearance.
The important thing that is NOT shown in the VNT-15 shot is that the turbo CANNOT be bolted to the bellhousing. There is too much interference from the turbine to allow the starter to be fastened properly.
This could be fixed with a 1KW starter, which appears (from comparison measurements and looking at the 1KW starter photo) to be approximately 1.25" shorter. It looks like there should be no problem with exhaust pipe clearance.
Here are some measurements, taken from the furthest back (toward the flywheel) top exhaust stud hole.
K03:
Rear exhaust flange is 4" forward of the stud hole. The bottom is 6.5" down from the stud hole. The turbine housing and the plane of the exhaust input flange are coincident.
VNT-15:
Rear exhaust flange is 5.5" forward of the stud hole. The bottom of the turbo (see pic for contact point) is 8" down from the stud hole. There is approximately 7/8" clearance between the turbine housing and the plane of the exhaust input flange.
Ok, here are some comparison measurements, etc.
1st, a shot of the K03 turbo and the 1.4KW starter:
Note that there is more overlap, as the turbo is located further back. However, it drops down less, so there is some clearance.
The important thing that is NOT shown in the VNT-15 shot is that the turbo CANNOT be bolted to the bellhousing. There is too much interference from the turbine to allow the starter to be fastened properly.
This could be fixed with a 1KW starter, which appears (from comparison measurements and looking at the 1KW starter photo) to be approximately 1.25" shorter. It looks like there should be no problem with exhaust pipe clearance.
Here are some measurements, taken from the furthest back (toward the flywheel) top exhaust stud hole.
K03:
Rear exhaust flange is 4" forward of the stud hole. The bottom is 6.5" down from the stud hole. The turbine housing and the plane of the exhaust input flange are coincident.
VNT-15:
Rear exhaust flange is 5.5" forward of the stud hole. The bottom of the turbo (see pic for contact point) is 8" down from the stud hole. There is approximately 7/8" clearance between the turbine housing and the plane of the exhaust input flange.
Spulen81
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2004
- Location
- Warners, NY
Cool, thanks for the pics/measurements. Here is my K03 with the 1.2kw(I think) starter. Its noticeably shorter than your starter. It might be enough to clear. The 1.0kw is even smaller so I bet it will work out fine.
FSD
Member
What are the "choice" years or preferred model year TDI's for these types of conversions? Thanks. I have a '79 toyota that I want to try this on. Thank you for this great thread.
Hello FSD!
There are a number of things that could determine the "choice" year of truck.
I wanted one of the newer ones with an X-tra cab. I felt the '79 that my dad has was a bit too cramped for longer drives. This all depends on your requirements for interior space, of course.
The big advantage the older ones had was the solid axle (if you are into serious off-road) and they were lighter.
Personally, I saw the mid '80s X-tra cabs as a good compromise of weight and interior space.
Some choice years would include the '85-'87 22RTE. It was a turbocharged 4-cylinder that feature the R151-F transmission. The transmission was one of the sturdier transmissions and can easily handle the torque output of the 1.9L TDI engine.
All the 4 cylinder models adapt fairly easily with the ACME adapter kit.
Avoid ones with V6 engines (what I got) You'll end up changing expensive stuff like transmissions......
Toyota does make diesels, but they were discontinued in the US market in 1985. Apparently the new diesels available everywhere else are really nice.
I hunted for quite a while to find an inexpensive one -look for engines with blown head gaskets - that was nearly rust free. If you already have one and it's not rusty, it may be the perfect one!
Here's a quick overview:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux
There are a number of things that could determine the "choice" year of truck.
I wanted one of the newer ones with an X-tra cab. I felt the '79 that my dad has was a bit too cramped for longer drives. This all depends on your requirements for interior space, of course.
The big advantage the older ones had was the solid axle (if you are into serious off-road) and they were lighter.
Personally, I saw the mid '80s X-tra cabs as a good compromise of weight and interior space.
Some choice years would include the '85-'87 22RTE. It was a turbocharged 4-cylinder that feature the R151-F transmission. The transmission was one of the sturdier transmissions and can easily handle the torque output of the 1.9L TDI engine.
All the 4 cylinder models adapt fairly easily with the ACME adapter kit.
Avoid ones with V6 engines (what I got) You'll end up changing expensive stuff like transmissions......
Toyota does make diesels, but they were discontinued in the US market in 1985. Apparently the new diesels available everywhere else are really nice.
I hunted for quite a while to find an inexpensive one -look for engines with blown head gaskets - that was nearly rust free. If you already have one and it's not rusty, it may be the perfect one!
Here's a quick overview:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux
FSD
Member
Thanks e*clipse, but I ment what year for the TDI engine? I already have a '79 toyota and I want to do the same thing you are, but I need to know where to get a complete set up and what year? Thanks. Sorry to take over your thread...my cousin started a new thread here on TDI club. Maybe I should strip down one of his two TDI's? Hmmmm. Thanks again and as I said earlier, great thread.
I honestly couldn't tell you. There are some folks around here who have done multiple conversions with different years of engines. I'm sure they'll have a much more comprehensive answer than I can give.
That question plays into a bunch of factors, including parts availability, power output, fuel economy, purchase cost, etc. Newer models will tend to be more complex (more sensors, immobilizers, etc) requiring more work to convert. Tracking down ECU's, wiring harnesses, "go pedals", etc can get expensive and time consuming. A donor vehicle or 1/2 cut is definitely helpful.
Here's a list of VW engines for some stock torque/power outputs. Note that some mods like flashing the ECU, larger injectors, etc. can greatly increase output. (and even improve fuel economy if done right
)The 1.9L engines work out well on the balance. I would recommend getting a TDI (not the TD) and one with a VNT turbo. This would give lots of tuning/upgrade capability and plenty of torque/power for the Toyota pickup application. You can also purchase an adapter kit for the 1.6L and 1.9L engines.
Just my 2 cents... Anyone with more experience is welcome to add stuff.
go pedal
I built a go pedal assembly so the TPS could be connected to the go pedal. It is a bracket that holds the TPS welded to the stock toyota pedal mount.
First, I tried using the VW pedal:
I preferred it because it had a nice adjuster and could easily connect to the TPS's cable. However, There isn't a lot of space in the toyota, and the TPS got in the way of the brake pedal. The adjuster also contacted the parking brake, forcing that to be moved.
Because of the brake interference (brakes are nice) I tried using the Toyota go pedal:
This cleared both the brake and the parking brake.
I built a go pedal assembly so the TPS could be connected to the go pedal. It is a bracket that holds the TPS welded to the stock toyota pedal mount.
First, I tried using the VW pedal:
I preferred it because it had a nice adjuster and could easily connect to the TPS's cable. However, There isn't a lot of space in the toyota, and the TPS got in the way of the brake pedal. The adjuster also contacted the parking brake, forcing that to be moved.
Because of the brake interference (brakes are nice) I tried using the Toyota go pedal:
This cleared both the brake and the parking brake.
transfer case output flange modification
Output flanges were drilled out to these specs:
(From Marlin Crawler)
Basically, I rotate the flange 45* and drilled it to the pattern using a DRO on a mill.
Here's a pic:
Output flanges were drilled out to these specs:
(From Marlin Crawler)
Mine turned out to be 60mmX60mm in the rear and 61.5mm X 70mm in the front. Bottom line: measure what you have!
Basically, I rotate the flange 45* and drilled it to the pattern using a DRO on a mill.
Here's a pic:
VNT-15 disaster
While I was trying to follow Drivebiwire's excellent instructions on VNT repair:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1340914
I ran into some problems during disassembly. After soaking it for days (literally) in PBblaster and even trying heating it, I cracked the bearing housing while trying to persuade it to come apart.
There's now a small crack in the cast iron where it connects to the compressor housing.
Unless anyone has any sage advice, I may have to go back to the old one...
While I was trying to follow Drivebiwire's excellent instructions on VNT repair:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1340914
I ran into some problems during disassembly. After soaking it for days (literally) in PBblaster and even trying heating it, I cracked the bearing housing while trying to persuade it to come apart.
There's now a small crack in the cast iron where it connects to the compressor housing.
Unless anyone has any sage advice, I may have to go back to the old one...
Umm, these things get a little warm for plastic....
Yea, my DSM's exhaust mani is cracked & welded (where the runners join @ the collector) I did also notice some cracks in the turbine inlet when I was porting it. I might be able to run this.
SD, are there cracks in your center sections?
I'll get pics in a few days.
Every 1g exhaust manifold I have ever seen and evey 14b turbine housing in the last 2 years have been cracked like woh. Thats beyond normal. Im talking about cracking the center section trying to give it a little love with a hammer. I broke part of the flange where the vband clamp holds the exhaust housing to the center section. Never had issues with it.
Smog
Registered Vendor
the D4D engine is easy to get; they were installed in Toyota forklift trucks. the other way to get one is to go at your favorite "JDM" speed shop who is an importer of japanese engines for the Honda/Nissan kids. They can source a japanese engine/tranny/wiring/ecu/cluster and have it sent here (canada/usa) in a container full of Type R engines...e*clipse said:Toyota does make diesels, but they were discontinued in the US market in 1985. Apparently the new diesels available everywhere else are really nice.
by the way, Toyota was the first passenger road vehicule to make it to the north pole..
http://www.topgear.com/content/news/stories/2067/
funny, they used 50% diesel 50% gasoline in the 3.0L D4D engine.
that remind me all the tdi-fanboys bashing me and other when we said to use gasoline as an antigel additive when temps go under 0F
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RoundHouse
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Ga USA
DO the D4D bolt to a yota 5 speed?
Do you have to swap the pump?
Most industrial diesels have a pump that no good for a car engine.
Do you have to swap the pump?
Most industrial diesels have a pump that no good for a car engine.