What did you do to your MKIV today?

IndigoBlueWagon said:

I'm a freak when it comes to wheel balance. I've traded in cars in the past when I couldn't get wheels balanced properly. My guru says I can tell when a wheel is 1/2 oz out. Fortunately he's a freak about wheel balance, too., and tolerates me. However, my TDIs hold both balance and alignment really well. Usually when one of my wheels goes out of balance it's because it's bent. I've taken to collecting Avus 1 wheels for the MKIV cars. Cheaper to buy more than have them straightened.

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Wondering if it could be a repair that was done to one of my wheels some time ago that messes with it then.
Shop did a small weld on it [emoji848] can’t remember where it ended up


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BakoTDI said:

Do you guys also have the need to so balancing and alignment as often as my car seems to need it!? Is it possible that hardware is just not of good enough quality? Anything above 60-65 mph I get lots of wheel shake. I know balancing will take care of that but it seems like my car goes out of whack soon after it’s aligned and balanced.


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I have only had 2 alignments since I bought the car and that was because I rebuilt the suspension. As for balance issues, normally don’t have issues there either. I’ll get it checked from time to time, but I have the tires and wheels match balanced with road force balances. Makes a big difference.

Actually, of the 6 vw’s I’ve owned and worked on over the past 10 years, the only balance problem I’ve had was when a shop dropped my bare rim and bent it! They wouldn’t even cover the repair and denied having bent it!

Balance and alignment have always been perfect on each one when checked.

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It wasn't today, actually it was yesterday. My buddy and I did the timing belt kit, and even though we know better, we timed the pump using the dummy hole. Of course she wouldn't start that way. We went through it again and found the problem. Us.

All is well now,and she runs like a top.

Nevada_TDI said:

It wasn't today, actually it was yesterday. My buddy and I did the timing belt kit, and even though we know better, we timed the pump using the dummy hole. Of course she wouldn't start that way. We went through it again and found the problem. Us.

All is well now,and she runs like a top.

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Haha that happened to me too. I personally did not know about the dummy hole until after the fact! I was so frustrated that I was about to get rid of the car!! But after talking to a friend and doing some research (in the forum of course), I was able to fix the issue and car started right up!


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MORTAMIR said:

Bought these Recaro GLI seats today.
Just have to go to Canada and pick them up now.
Probably paid too much but i feel good about them.

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Whoa - where did you get those seats? I'm always looking for nice upgrade parts on CL and other places up here in BC, and totally did not see those.

Dh4276 said:

Custom center caps coming in today, which should I start with??

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I'd skip the ones that are evocative of a swastika.

BakoTDI said:

Do you guys also have the need to so balancing and alignment as often as my car seems to need it!? Is it possible that hardware is just not of good enough quality? Anything above 60-65 mph I get lots of wheel shake. I know balancing will take care of that but it seems like my car goes out of whack soon after it’s aligned and balanced.

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If you're on aftermarket rims, look to the centering rings; I've had bad luck with those providing a truly OEM-level fit.

If you're on OEM rims...your theory of the weld-fix seems like a good place to start.

Nuje said:

I'd skip the ones that are evocative of a swastika.

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I almost commented similarly but thought maybe they weren't what I was thinking they were.

romad said:

I almost commented similarly but thought maybe they weren't what I was thinking they were.

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I had the same reaction.

Nuje said:

If you're on aftermarket rims, look to the entering rings; I've had bad luck with those providing a truly OEM-level fit.

If you're on OEM rims...your theory of the weld-fix seems like a good place to start.

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Yeah I have hub centric rings hoping it would help. Didn’t really see a difference but it’s much easier to install the wheels now.
Wondering if the quality of the parts themselves would give way to wiggle sooner than better brand parts. I have been waiting to install new TT LCA bushings. I also have new strut mounts and bearings to install but I would like to upgrade my struts and springs with an affordable pair of coil overs. But that seems to be in the distance based on my current COVID budget. Anyway, my Jetta’s suspensión had never felt tight. Is there a way to check if maybe there is any damage to frame? After I purchased car, I started noticing some damages to the front of end like the lower valance was gone and the lower portion of the radiator bracket was broken. Not sure how much damage there really was but just can never seem to get long lasting balancing and alignment [emoji17]


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"any damage to frame? After I purchased car, I started noticing some damages to the front of end like the lower valance was gone and the lower portion of the radiator bracket was broken."

Uh oh,,,,,,,,,,, nothing on the Carfax? You need to find somebody who really
knows these cars to have a good look. Standardly these cars, when right,
stay in alignment. Do all your bushings and check the subframe.

Rrusse11 said:

"any damage to frame? After I purchased car, I started noticing some damages to the front of end like the lower valance was gone and the lower portion of the radiator bracket was broken."

Uh oh,,,,,,,,,,, nothing on the Carfax? You need to find somebody who really
knows these cars to have a good look. Standardly these cars, when right,
stay in alignment. Do all your bushings and check the subframe.

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No nothing the one time I checked after I purchased it. I suppose nothing new would be reported since then ...


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sriracha said:

I had the same reaction.

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Didn’t even think about them looking like that, and others have not either. They are the 1937 emblem I found and actually thought they looked more tribal. Being VW history though makes more sense the way your thinking.

Thanks for the feedback!


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Here is a history of VW's logos: https://www.motor1.com/features/369759/vw-logo-history/

And here is small graphic showing an extremely rare 1945 version: https://electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2020/04/old-vw-logos.jpg?resize=1024,512

Then there is this alternate design called "Eagle VW Gear II Sticker" designed by sweethaven: http://tinyurl.com/ycx8b27o

Another alternate sticker: http://tinyurl.com/y8ryzw28

I need to re-seat the cover, but just finished adding power-folding, auto-dimming, heated, memory sideview mirrors with puddle lights:

Got the old block stripped and out of the car. The new motor is about 85% complete. Torqued everything down to spec still need to get the TB, a/c,alt and ps mounted. Then I should be able to drop her in put the injectors and related components. Also ordered a new turbo feed line for obvious reasons and a complete block off kit for the EGR. Hopefully have her road ready in a week or two.

benmarks said:

I need to re-seat the cover, but just finished adding power-folding, auto-dimming, heated, memory sideview mirrors with puddle lights:

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Where did you find those at? How much work to wire everything up?


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This is a combination of VW, Audi and Skoda parts. The power-folding mirrors are from a Jetta/Bora. The auto-dimming mirror glass is Audi. The puddle lights are Skoda. It's a fair amount of work and wiring. You need matching window motors and if you want to use the memory feature, you need the memory module that is usually underneath a power-memory seat. For the auto-dimming to work, you'd need to already have the auto-dimming rearview mirror because you tap into that wiring and you need the corresponding relay. You also need the appropriate switch for the door. I did it at the same time as a Climatronic swap, so that made running the wires for this mod much easier.

There isn't a single thread either. There's a big thread here that has all the info for the power-folding mirrors. The auto-dimming glass and puddle lights were from other forums.

benmarks said:

This is a combination of VW, Audi and Skoda parts. The power-folding mirrors are from a Jetta/Bora. The auto-dimming mirror glass is Audi. The puddle lights are Skoda. It's a fair amount of work and wiring. You need matching window motors and if you want to use the memory feature, you need the memory module that is usually underneath a power-memory seat. For the auto-dimming to work, you'd need to already have the auto-dimming rearview mirror because you tap into that wiring and you need the corresponding relay. You also need the appropriate switch for the door. I did it at the same time as a Climatronic swap, so that made running the wires for this mod much easier.

There isn't a single thread either. There's a big thread here that has all the info for the power-folding mirrors. The auto-dimming glass and puddle lights were from other forums.

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Nice job, a little more than I need to get into right now but would be cool to do in the future. Thanks for the info!


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Installed my front and rear dash cam yesterday (ran the wires) as well as did the "5 brake light mod". Wish I would have known about this sooner, it's always better to be seen.

I also ordered some reverse LED bulbs. The halogen bulbs are garbage. The rear dash cam will be on the back windshield going through 20% tint. I'm not worried about capturing images during the day, but the rear cam has a "reverse" mode where it will kick on when the car is in reverse and you can see behind you. Kinda cool that it pulls double duty. I'm hoping the light output of the LED's I bought will throw enough light behind for the camera to pickup when in reverse through the tint, but we'll see.

I'm also going to play around with diodes so I can use the "fog" lamp as a 5th brake light and a second reverse light, even though it will be going through the red lens. It may help the dash cam out a bit more picking up that low light as well.

I was a little hesitant at first to put another halogen in the fog lamp for fear of overloading the brake circuit wiring but it seems no one has had too many issues. I guess it doesn't matter though, there will be an LED in there when I get them today and the current draw is so little compared to halogen it won't have any effect at all.

Finally got an alignment after all of the suspension work (Bilstein TC Sports x4, VR6 front springs, wagon rear springs, bushings all the way around, and a NEUSPEED rear sway bar). Went in yesterday for the alignment but as has been the case with the last couple of these I have done, the tie rods were too long and I had to remove 1/2" so they could set the toe-in.

Used cutting the tie rod ends as an opportunity to install the new fender liners which were in 4 pieces each, along with new mud flaps as I was missing one.

Got the gearbox oil changed in the '04. 2+ qts of MT90 and about a cup of Synchromesh to bring it up to level. Shifting is quite smooth, not that it was bad before. The 4th-5th change is where I can notice it the most. Should have done it sooner...
cheers,
Douglas

PakProtector said:

Got the gearbox oil changed in the '04. 2+ qts of MT90 and about a cup of Synchromesh to bring it up to level. Shifting is quite smooth, not that it was bad before. The 4th-5th change is where I can notice it the most. Should have done it sooner...
cheers,
Douglas

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Sounds over-filled. Should take just 2 liters total.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Sounds over-filled. Should take just 2 liters total.

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Well, 2.11337642 US quarts IS "2+ quarts". I wouldn't call that "over-filled would you?

However the "cup of Synchromesh" would make it 2.36337642 US quarts which is kinda overfilling.

No, not until you add the cup of Synchromesh does it sound like too much. He writes "and" not "including."

IndigoBlueWagon said:

No, not until you add the cup of Synchromesh does it sound like too much. He writes "and" not "including."

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Yes, I then added that additional 8 fl oz which would take it over 2 liters by 236.58824 milliliters.
I've always followed the directions to fill it until the fluid starts to run out the fill port. Oops, that is for my Miata, I forgot I was in the TDI Forum tab, not the Miata Forum tab!

Same instructions for VW. Fill until it starts to come out.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Same instructions for VW. Fill until it starts to come out.

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That just applies to the manual, correct?

Yes, just the manual.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Sounds over-filled. Should take just 2 liters total.

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It was a bit nose up, and quite thoroughly running out as I crammed in the drain plug. Just as intended. I have been party to Official level setting for an OEM, and the marker the beast has to get to is 150k miles before turning to dust. Emphasis on fuel economy driving the level as low as is possible. There is a bit of anecdotal evidence in that same direction for the big Dodge Cummins gearboxes. Fill to the level plug, remove the shifter from the top side and add another quart if you want them to live as long as the Cummins.

I am quite OK with a slight over fill...
cheers,
Douglas