I wouldn't bet on it being that they're LEDs. Very low amperage required.
This may not be an issue in this particular use but what kind of power can be run through the posi-taps if they're just puncturing the wire's shielding and making just enough contact with the copper strands for continuity?
Not sure how many amps they will take. They have sizes up to 10 gauge.
You can also see the wire after the tap has been removed
Yes I thought about that and it is a drawback of doing it that way.
I read the same thing somewhere, also. I can't remember now where that was though. This post is officially useless
I just noticed your Location says your in Cypress. Is that right? Are you really in the same town as me?I read the same thing somewhere, also. I can't remember now where that was though. This post is officially useless.
. Or at least have a beer and a laugh
Thinking about this more... When I read about this some time ago, it may have been said that only the SELs that have the harness in place. I just popped the lens out of one rear panel and tried to look around for the harness through the opening there but can't see anything as part of the door panel itself is in the way.
AFAIK, the puddle light kit you purchase, should come with the wiring. Which should go in to the door module (located in the window motor connection harness on this picture).This is a photo of my 2013 SE rear door while I was adding sound proofing. There is not a wire waiting to plug into the light. The lower wire seen is for the window switch.
I cannot remember if the module has a plug in spot for the lights. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of the front door to see if the puddle light was just plugged into the module, sorry.
Sorry, but I shortened your post.....and I agree. From what I see on the wiring schematics, you got to pick the rear door lighting from the from door controllers (the power to the front door lights comes directly from the door control module) or run it to the BCM, which I would bet requires the higher version as in the SEL's. What likely happens is that when any door opens, be it a front or rear, the door switch tells the BCM that it's opened over canbus communications, turns on the open door puddle light either through the front door controllers directly, or from the BCM for the rear doors. If the Se's do not have the higher level BCM, then the 'easiest' would be to grab it from the front door outputs, which is still a major job. You would only need to run one wire on each side through the door wiring connectors in the pillars and pick up the ground in each rear door.It is insane....ugggggg
What about running the wires to the front and splice into the lower lighting harness on SEL or pin to the BCM in their location for lower models. The interior lights activate with any door opening so that would trigger the doors also. They would come on when the doors are closed and interior activated, but you would not see them outside as the seals would hide the light. It would add a little extra light for the back seat also. And how often do we really just turn on interior lights alone...
Don't think so as the rear door position microswitch is built into the latch assembly and it appears to switch ground to the BCM, depending on door position so likely no real power there to even light an LED. There is a direct 12 VDC feed (always on - fuses SC22 and SC31) to each of the rear door modules - T16h/16 (left side) and T16i/16 on right side. Ground is there too. Door latch switch is pin T8s/2 (left side) and T8t/2 on passenger side. Worth poking a meter around and seeing what you find. Maybe a small relay, triggered off the door latch switch to BCM will do the trick, maybe not.