Dro.Pru
Member
Hello All.
New member here, I made an introduction in the appropriate thread. Link if you care to read it it.
Skip ahead to TLDR if you care less for details/background.[br]1[/br]
In October 2017, the timing belt on my 04 jetta (BEW) was nearly destroyed when the idler pulley seized, causing the nut at the end of the stud to shear off, getting stuck in between the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt, shearing half of the timing belt lengthwise. The timing belt had been replaced 50k prior and I honestly think it was a freak accident. Maybe the mechanic that did the TB in June 2015 didn't replace the idler, but either way it happened. The car had 241k miles.
Since then I have taken the head off, decided to rebuild it with new valves/valve seats. Had the head resurfaced. (Camshaft was replaced when the TB was done last) Then I decided to rebuild the block/ paint it. Had the block honed as well. I rebuilt the engine with new piston rings and bearings all around. (eventually I will do a full write up chronicling the entire process with pictures.)
ANYWAY, I put the car back on the road last week and I do have a few bugs with the car that I'm trying to resolve. Initially I had trouble starting up the engine; the fuel sender in the tank was not spinning under battery power, so I took that apart and the impeller was stuck, freed it, and checked if it spun under power. reassembled, back in tank. Even after priming the fuel filter there was a no start condition. Used a mityvac to draw fuel from the return of the tandem pump. NSC. the glow plug harness wasn't making proper contact via the bullet connectors on two of the GP, so i used a little jumper (read: wire with alligator clips) to bypass that for the time being (I plan on repairing/replacing). ENGINE STARTED!!
I had the engine idling as break-in procedure, but then once it got to operating temperature it cut out (about 15 minutes). It would start back up no problem. Took it for a test drive the next day, get to OT then stalls. Starts back up. Read through the forums and saw that ASV might be causing the issue. The next day I disconnected and went for a test drive that lasted longer than getting to operating temp. Unplugging the ASV seemed to do the trick.
Seeing that the engine was more reliable I felt comfortable commuting to work Monday. 20-25 miles, highway with traffic lights. I was doing about 40mph coming up to a light about 10 minutes in, we're at operating temperature now, car stalls. Get it going again, get to work with time to spare, decided to let it idle in the parking lot before I went into work. Car stalls (smoothly as if the ASV was connected but it wasn't). Didn't turn it back on since I had to go into the office anyway.
Drive home later no problems. I'm not stepping on it mind you. I've been changing gears much earlier than my typical spirited driving would like, about 200-2500. And I'm trying to not get it there too quickly either, so smooth accelerations. I get home and wanted to let it idle again, no problems but then after 15 minutes it cuts out again.
I was advised by a TDI friend to delete my EGR upon putting the whole thing back together again. I realize that there are mixed opinions on removing it. I live in NJ so they do not check the emissions on diesels, and I liked the idea of removing it to prevent sooty/dirty exhaust air from entering the intake theoretically being healthier for the engine. I also put in the larger passat tdi oil cooler. My thoughts on this were, that the lack of EGR and addition of the oil cooler would cancel each other out.
TLDR
From my understanding, the ASV throttles the intake whenever the ECU is introducing more exhaust gases. With the egr removed, I would think that the ASV would still close (partially or maybe fully) but since there is no EGR to replace the blocked airflow the car would stall. Removing the ASV from the equation should have solved the stalling issue I was having while driving and while idling. My question is if anyone things this is all related to EGR removal? Could getting a tune and taking the CEL out of the equation "fix" this problem.
I had intended of going to a stage 1 or 2 tune via Malone tuning once I have gone through the engine breaking in process for the first 500-1000 miles. With a tune deleting the EGR is a free add-on. Standalone it is about $100. I'd rather not spending the money on the egr delete if I can get it with the tune i plan on doing anyway. Nor do I want to get a tune too prematurely....
Some hings I haven't done yet:
I'm looking for suggestions as to what you might think it could be. I am certainly no expert, But I tried to do as much research as possible and I truly appreciate any and all help!
New member here, I made an introduction in the appropriate thread. Link if you care to read it it.
Skip ahead to TLDR if you care less for details/background.[br]1[/br]
In October 2017, the timing belt on my 04 jetta (BEW) was nearly destroyed when the idler pulley seized, causing the nut at the end of the stud to shear off, getting stuck in between the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt, shearing half of the timing belt lengthwise. The timing belt had been replaced 50k prior and I honestly think it was a freak accident. Maybe the mechanic that did the TB in June 2015 didn't replace the idler, but either way it happened. The car had 241k miles.
Since then I have taken the head off, decided to rebuild it with new valves/valve seats. Had the head resurfaced. (Camshaft was replaced when the TB was done last) Then I decided to rebuild the block/ paint it. Had the block honed as well. I rebuilt the engine with new piston rings and bearings all around. (eventually I will do a full write up chronicling the entire process with pictures.)
ANYWAY, I put the car back on the road last week and I do have a few bugs with the car that I'm trying to resolve. Initially I had trouble starting up the engine; the fuel sender in the tank was not spinning under battery power, so I took that apart and the impeller was stuck, freed it, and checked if it spun under power. reassembled, back in tank. Even after priming the fuel filter there was a no start condition. Used a mityvac to draw fuel from the return of the tandem pump. NSC. the glow plug harness wasn't making proper contact via the bullet connectors on two of the GP, so i used a little jumper (read: wire with alligator clips) to bypass that for the time being (I plan on repairing/replacing). ENGINE STARTED!!
I had the engine idling as break-in procedure, but then once it got to operating temperature it cut out (about 15 minutes). It would start back up no problem. Took it for a test drive the next day, get to OT then stalls. Starts back up. Read through the forums and saw that ASV might be causing the issue. The next day I disconnected and went for a test drive that lasted longer than getting to operating temp. Unplugging the ASV seemed to do the trick.
Seeing that the engine was more reliable I felt comfortable commuting to work Monday. 20-25 miles, highway with traffic lights. I was doing about 40mph coming up to a light about 10 minutes in, we're at operating temperature now, car stalls. Get it going again, get to work with time to spare, decided to let it idle in the parking lot before I went into work. Car stalls (smoothly as if the ASV was connected but it wasn't). Didn't turn it back on since I had to go into the office anyway.
Drive home later no problems. I'm not stepping on it mind you. I've been changing gears much earlier than my typical spirited driving would like, about 200-2500. And I'm trying to not get it there too quickly either, so smooth accelerations. I get home and wanted to let it idle again, no problems but then after 15 minutes it cuts out again.
I was advised by a TDI friend to delete my EGR upon putting the whole thing back together again. I realize that there are mixed opinions on removing it. I live in NJ so they do not check the emissions on diesels, and I liked the idea of removing it to prevent sooty/dirty exhaust air from entering the intake theoretically being healthier for the engine. I also put in the larger passat tdi oil cooler. My thoughts on this were, that the lack of EGR and addition of the oil cooler would cancel each other out.
TLDR
From my understanding, the ASV throttles the intake whenever the ECU is introducing more exhaust gases. With the egr removed, I would think that the ASV would still close (partially or maybe fully) but since there is no EGR to replace the blocked airflow the car would stall. Removing the ASV from the equation should have solved the stalling issue I was having while driving and while idling. My question is if anyone things this is all related to EGR removal? Could getting a tune and taking the CEL out of the equation "fix" this problem.
I had intended of going to a stage 1 or 2 tune via Malone tuning once I have gone through the engine breaking in process for the first 500-1000 miles. With a tune deleting the EGR is a free add-on. Standalone it is about $100. I'd rather not spending the money on the egr delete if I can get it with the tune i plan on doing anyway. Nor do I want to get a tune too prematurely....
Some hings I haven't done yet:
- Removed the ASV and check if the gears in it are worn.
- performed a flow test on the previously stuck fuel sender to rule out a bad motor.
- Used vcds to take logs of car performance and capture a stall. (currently don't have VCDS, I have an Actron Autoscanner with some data logging capabilities though. I'm not opposed to purchasing VCDS though, as it's something i've been contemplating for a while.)
- checked timing for Cam sprocket in relation to crank sprocket. (when I did the timing belt job I was very meticulous and checked it over several times)
I'm looking for suggestions as to what you might think it could be. I am certainly no expert, But I tried to do as much research as possible and I truly appreciate any and all help!