Injection pump

Houpty GT

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Location
South Carolina
TDI
Corrado TDI, 2000 Golf, 1996 B4 Variant
I rebuilt a QA this weekend. There are 2 seals for the black box. A reseal kit contains the smaller primary seal. The outer rectangular seal is not as important since it is past the bolts and they are not sealed.
 

b4andy

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Location
Dublin Ireland
TDI
Audi 80 B4
1z tdi 10mm bosch need help !!!!

Hi all!!!!
I'm new to this forum,I own an 1994 audi 80 b4 1z TDI.
I have been having trouble with the IP. The pump is timed properly
and is within the bounds of the timing graph. The problem is that it has a rough idle, I have adjusted the QA many times into the region where it runs sweet, like a watch!! But when I go to check it by giving it a quick rev the engine stays at whatever rpm I bring it to and does not return to idle. Using Vagcom I have tried to achieve the 3-5mg/stroke but it always reads 0mg/st actual IQ,thats when I have it running sweet and idling perfectly. I have read that that is okay as the pedal has not been touched and isn't requesting a higher quantity. Obviously the car is undriveable at this QA position and have to bring it back to lumpy idle so as to still use the car. I have a hunch the IP has an internal fault, can anyone point me in the right direction as for what to check. I have already had the QA off and gave it a thorough cleaning. What are normal ranges for the fuel temp sensor to read? Any chance it could be a sticking fuel collar? Its a bosch 10mm electric pump just like the one on page one of this thread.
Any help whatsoever will be very appreciated I think it might just drive me insane with the constant lump thump!!:eek::eek:
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
I have heard of a procedure, but, offhand I can't recall what thread it was in.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet
 

Spinnerx29

Active member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Location
Florida
TDI
2001 jetta TDI
any words of wisdom as far as marks that have to be lined up when re assembling the pump ? I just found this and the pic is dead on for what I have . Others I have found have been very different as far as the top of the unit goes. I know the pin on the cam plate has to be lined up with the keyway on the shaft. Other than that ?
 
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Spinnerx29

Active member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Location
Florida
TDI
2001 jetta TDI
I did the pump head seal and pulled it out a hair to far. roller ring on up is what I am dealing with
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
The clocking you refer to is the only clocking required.

The pics on the first page show it pretty well except the shim between the plunger and the cam plate. It's not shown. Some vasoline will hold it in place it you're working horizontally.

There are also shims between the springs and the pump head.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
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Helga98

New member
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Location
PNW
TDI
98 Jetta
I’m curious and been look for a diamgram about adjust thing the pump plunger to collar side to side and up and down for fuel timing. Anyone have anything telling me what moving left and right does as well as up and down? Did a rebuild on the pump and can’t seem to get the fuel timing correct. There’s 11 pages here of posts so sorry if it was already brought up
 

jeffpepin

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2017
Location
canada
TDI
1.9 ALH jetta 2003
hi i know i revive an old thread but ive changed the o-ring on the head that plug injectors lines , it was a succes for the leak but ive messed up with the adjustement of the screw related to #4 on the previous image posted ( plunger delivery) you see the bolt in center of the big bolt in center of all 4 injector output , ive removed the 12mm to monitor the most far point of the pump when ive changed gasket without totally disassemble the pump
but unfortunely , big center bolt was loosed by mystake and the 12mm bolt in it was probably not setted of after finish

now permanently have engine shutoff while im driving pass 2800RPM + GP cel flashing/quantity adjuster ,control deviation codes

any info on a particular procedure to reset theses screws will be so much appreciated ! thanks
 
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KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
If I'm understanding you correctly you're referring to the the three sided plug between the lines and the 12 mm plug in it?

There is no adjustment on these. The big plug needs to be tight since it's a metal to metal seal on its tip. If it doesn't seal properly internal leakage of fuel to the injectors results. If the 12mm plug isn't tight external leakage will result.

The 12mm plug is used for setting the location of the sprocket mounting flange when the pump is initially assembled. It was used for timing on the older IDI engines but again there is no adjustment involved with the plug itself.

Did you replace two rectangular seals on the top of the pump? The lower of the two seals the quantity adjuster whose location is critical.
 

jetfiremuck

Active member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Location
USA
TDI
98 Jetta
03 Alh. Need help understanding the following. Cannot get the pig to start. Spins over no issues.

Using a boat primer bulb on the input side of the pump between the fuel filter and inj pump to push fuel thru the pump bleeding out the return line by cracking the banjo bolt and cap until fresh fuel flows. So if the injectors lines are loosened while doing this should fuel come out one or both fuel inj lines at the injectors without cranking engine. Mine does.

Im getting full sweep on the QA when I cycle the key. 109 relay is new, glow plug light proves out and doesnt flash.

Knowing that the pump has no air and Im only getting a dribble of fuel at the injector without bubbles. Ive rebuilt this pump over 30k miles ago. Ive removed the shut off solenoid plunger and no difference. So where is the issue? The distributer head or delivery valves? Could i have broken plunger springs?

Ive a few hours into it and no closer than when I started.

What I have is no 6-10" fuel spray from the injector lines at the injectors just a dribble. There is no air in the pump. The Pump is bone dry.
 

Houpty GT

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Location
South Carolina
TDI
Corrado TDI, 2000 Golf, 1996 B4 Variant
There is no air in the pump. The Pump is bone dry.
???

The fuel leak at the injectors is probably the fuel flowing backwards through the little return lines.
Make sure the filter is hooked up correctly. When did the car stop running? Do you need to hammer the pump head towards the transmission?
 

jetfiremuck

Active member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Location
USA
TDI
98 Jetta
Sorry. The no air in the pump means that its fully bled of air . Pump being bone dry is that there are no external fuel leaks on the body or shaft seal.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
The Injector Pump (IP) needs to be spinning (crank the engine with the starter) to bled air out of the hard lines over to the Injectors. The IP only delivers a very small amount of fuel on each stroke ......... very small. The plunger inside the IP loads fuel as it rotates before the plunge ...... the amount it holds is very small. So, you are not going to see loads of fuel when bleeding the hard lines. Sometimes the air being pushed out makes it appear lots of fuel is coming out.
 
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