High milage cost of ownership?

brianbvw · Aug 26, 2014

I have an 13" JSW with 30k miles would like to hear from owners with higher milage TDI's on what they have needed to replace. I'm curious to know at what milage people are needing to replace their DPF, EGR, turbo, HPFP, timing belt, etc... Also what the replacement cost for these items are. I'm hoping to drive my JSW for 200K+ but have heard that TDI's can get expensive to maintain.

Thanks in advance for the responses.

fdizz · Aug 26, 2014

My 2010 golf has 132k. Did tires at 80k, tbelt, dif fluid, struts, brake fluid flush at 100k and a stage two Malone tune and a dpf, egr delete at 120k. Brakes are still at 80%. If you can do it, lose the dpf and egr. No egr means no more ic icing, and no dpf means better mileage. I average 53mpg on paper after the tune and deletes. And tbelt isn't due till 120k and should cost no more than 1k.

brianbvw · Aug 26, 2014

I'd love to do the dpf delete but I live in CA. So I'm afraid I'll have problems when it's time to smog it. Fdizz was your your dpf clogged when you deleted it?

fdizz · Aug 27, 2014

No it wasn't. And I had them check the numbers via vcds before removal and it was way under what they recommend replacing it at. But 98% of my miles are highway so it always completed regens.

apples12 · Aug 27, 2014

currently at 120k, list of stuff done so far:

3x windscreens
10k oil changes, regular fuel filters/air filters - usual servicing malarkey
replacement clutch/flywheel/gearbox from dealer under warranty due to a rattle in gear
shocks and springs on all four corners at 115k
replaced EGR valve last weekend due to an oil leak through the pcb section (!)
alongside usual consumables of tyres etc!

seth1065 · Aug 27, 2014

I am at 93 K with my 11 JSW, HPPF pump done at VW expense around 70K, tires at 50 K ( $600) rcn valve for AC around 75 K ( $150) TB do at 120K, brakes fine still on original set, my next big expense will be 120 K TB and DSg my guess is about $1300.

Jeffbucc · Aug 28, 2014

87k with 60k of that Stage 2 Malone, new stage 2 clutch due to an employee blowing up mine, 10k fluids, besides that not one thing has gone awry(yet). My reason for no issues may be different due to me pouring so much money into the car from aftermarket world.

Surprised I haven't had issues with the turbo after so many miles being stage 2, but if it dies, all the more reason to put a 2260 in.

TomKitt · Aug 28, 2014

Just replaced my original clutch at 189K!!

yatzee · Aug 28, 2014

TomKitt said:
Just replaced my original clutch at 189K!!

this thread is about A6 cars - 2010 +

53 willys · Aug 29, 2014

I'm at 130,000
Hpfp at 47k
T-belt
Rear brakes
4 set's of tires (I change tires earlier then needed)

It's been a great car

jerrymander · Aug 29, 2014

apples12 said:
currently at 120k, list of stuff done so far:

3x windscreens

Three windscreens? Angry Polish immigrants throwing bricks at your car?

redbarron55 · Aug 29, 2014

jerrymander said:
Three windscreens? Angry Polish immigrants throwing bricks at your car?

in my experience the windshields are wear items and need replacement for chips and sandblasting at ~ 100K miles.

apples12 · Aug 30, 2014

jerrymander said:
Three windscreens? Angry Polish immigrants throwing bricks at your car?

lol. nope, just a lot of motorway driving! (u guys call it 'highway') if theres a scratch/chip in my line of sight then it fails the MOT we have over here, although 2 were chips that went into cracks. all covered under insurance however

FiremanTDI · Aug 31, 2014

IMHO I believe the more highway/freeway/motorway driving you do (compared to city) in a TDI the better it runs and the more return you get from fuel savings over the life of your car.

brianbvw · Sep 3, 2014

Thanks for the feedback. I'd love to hear from more owners....

D_Squared · Sep 4, 2014

I'm in the same boat as you at 30k but my dad's '10 JSW is around 100k and his only major maintenance has been the HPFP which happened about a month ago and was fixed on VWs dollar.

Beck2013 · Sep 4, 2014

I have a 2010 JSW and I have done nothing but normal maintenance. I just hit 117,500 so I am getting ready to do a timing belt soon.

Echelon73 · Sep 4, 2014

I have a 2011 with 130K on it. I just recently had the timing belt done at a cost of about $770 (included water pump, all pulleys, and external serpentine belt). I am currently having A/C problems and am not sure how much that will cost to fix yet as I am still working on it. My window washer fluid reservoir also has a large leak, but I have not tried to fix that, so also not sure how much that will cost.

brianbvw · Sep 10, 2014

bump.....

cnr2003 · Sep 11, 2014

2010 with 166k

Glow plugs around 100k = $350
Timing belt at 110k = $1100
DMF at 160k = $1800
Shocks/struts/all rear suspension bushings at 165k ~$700

tadurkee · Sep 11, 2014

brianbvw said:
I'm curious to know at what mileage people are needing to replace their DPF, EGR, turbo, HPFP, timing belt, etc... Also what the replacement cost for these items are. I'm hoping to drive my JSW for 200K+ but have heard that TDI's can get expensive to maintain.

Yes, they can indeed be expensive to maintain if you plan on driving it for several hundred thousand miles, but only because you will be repeating some of the more expensive services, such as timing belt/water pump and possibly DPF/Cat. And, as with any vehicle, the longer you drive and the more miles you put on, more "stuff" can happen.

Here's a rundown of the major maintenance/repairs done to my 2010 JSW DSG, currently at 347,500 miles, purchased new in May 2010. I've had zero issues with the HPFP and turbo. The first four years of ownership (May 2010-May 2014) were about 70/30 highway/city miles. Since then it's been more like 50/50.

1) DPF/Cat replaced under warranty at 25,000 miles
2) Timing belt kit/water pump at 125,000 miles ($1080)
3) DMF (flywheel) replaced at 175,000 miles ($1514)
4) A/C compressor and condenser replaced at 225,000 miles ($1500)
5) Radiator replaced at 258,000 miles (road debris damage) ($639)
6) DPF/Cat replaced again at 283,000 (ash load was 300 ml, definitely overdue) ($2400)
7) Serpentine belt and tensioner at 300,000 miles ($300)
8) EGR valve at 316,000 miles ($525)
9) 2nd Timing belt kit and water pump at 346,000 miles (yes, way overdue but I took a gamble and got lucky. Water pump was just starting to leak but timing belt was really not too worn, considering it had over 220,000 miles on it) ($925)

Original front brake pads lasted until 216,000 miles and had the original rotors machined at that time. Original rear brake pads and rotors were replaced at 267,000 miles. At 325,000 miles, I had the front brake pads and original rotors replaced. Been through 5 sets of tires, and within the next month or two will be putting on my 3rd set of Michelin Defenders (90,000 mile warranty).

Hoping to get 500-600,000 miles out of my JSW but will just run it until repairs cost more than the car is worth. Do NOT plan on putting another DPF/Cat on it.

JRSwampy · Sep 15, 2014

I have 215k. Besides the normal scheduled maintenance, I haven't had many problems until now. At 80k I needed a new A/C under extended warranty. I've had a couple of sensors go out in the exhaust/turbo system. I don't remember which ones.

Last night I got a check engine light and the glow plug light started flashing. I got a quote from a local shop for $7,712!

They said I need a new DPF, EGR Filter Tube, Turbo and N75 valve. Now that it's just a weekend use car, I'm not sure if I want to put that much money and effort in to it..

DZL_Damon · Sep 18, 2014

95k miles on it total... most of my parts were due to chasing down a vibration that most likely resulted from my wife driving through pot holes the size of Rhode Island or so....

I've replaced wheel bearings, rims, tires, and axle shafts chasing the vibration down. The CV's on one side really were starting to click at about 85k miles so I opted for full axle shaft change out since I was having shaking issues still.

Wheel bearings on front at 60,000 miles WERE bad, but were probably a result from pot holes.

If it wasn't for that, all I've had was a temperature sensor on the turbo inlet go, and one set of rear brake pad (driver side) replaced since the caliper was dragging. All in all I'm happy with how it's been, and I've done all scheduled maintenances on time.

seth1065 · Sep 18, 2014

Ok you have a ton of miles no doubt, more than most will see ever, I assume the DMF, AC, and the DPF Cat ( 2 one) are not true wear items, I may be wrong about that. DId you have to think long and hard on any of them when it came time to put a good chuck of change done on repairs. I am leaving out what I think are maintenance items. I get you want to run it to it drops but did you think one more big repair and I am done????

Thanks for the reply.

tadurkee said:
Yes, they can indeed be expensive to maintain if you plan on driving it for several hundred thousand miles, but only because you will be repeating some of the more expensive services, such as timing belt/water pump and possibly DPF/Cat. And, as with any vehicle, the longer you drive and the more miles you put on, more "stuff" can happen.
Here's a rundown of the major maintenance/repairs done to my 2010 JSW DSG, currently at 347,500 miles, purchased new in May 2010. I've had zero issues with the HPFP and turbo. The first four years of ownership (May 2010-May 2014) were about 70/30 highway/city miles. Since then it's been more like 50/50.
1) DPF/Cat replaced under warranty at 25,000 miles
2) Timing belt kit/water pump at 125,000 miles ($1080)
3) DMF (flywheel) replaced at 175,000 miles ($1514)
4) A/C compressor and condenser replaced at 225,000 miles ($1500)
5) Radiator replaced at 258,000 miles (road debris damage) ($639)
6) DPF/Cat replaced again at 283,000 (ash load was 300 ml, definitely overdue) ($2400)
7) Serpentine belt and tensioner at 300,000 miles ($300)
8) EGR valve at 316,000 miles ($525)
9) 2nd Timing belt kit and water pump at 346,000 miles (yes, way overdue but I took a gamble and got lucky. Water pump was just starting to leak but timing belt was really not too worn, considering it had over 220,000 miles on it) ($925)
Original front brake pads lasted until 216,000 miles and had the original rotors machined at that time. Original rear brake pads and rotors were replaced at 267,000 miles. At 325,000 miles, I had the front brake pads and original rotors replaced. Been through 5 sets of tires, and within the next month or two will be putting on my 3rd set of Michelin Defenders (90,000 mile warranty).
Hoping to get 500-600,000 miles out of my JSW but will just run it until repairs cost more than the car is worth. Do NOT plan on putting another DPF/Cat on it.

PFCoppinger · Sep 18, 2014

I tend to run cars until they are really quite dead, and then some. I have run a '93 Honda Civic, a '95 Volvo 855, and a '02 Taurus wagon well up over 200,000 miles-- the first two over 300,000 miles. Each of them would tag me with the occasional big bill, including the occasional $2500+ bill. Goes with the territory of driving an older car.

My evaluation was always first, is the engine still good? Every engine eventually starts to lose compression, and once they did, then the car was on death-watch. Second, is the body okay? The Honda rusted and rotted around an otherwise still-good engine. The third question is whether the repairs are hitting harder than a car payment. Car payment is in the range of $5000 a year, so if the repairs run north of that, then its time.

But I am always willing to fund a big-ticket repair if the repairs in the aggregate are still less than car payments, and the engine and body aren't going to die on me.

If you pay $30,000 for a new car, it will depreciate by $10,000 at least over the first year, and will cost loan payments on top of that. So I figure that the repair bill has to get pretty damn high before a new car is more cost effective.

Once things get close to the end, it is always "Can I buy a car this good for the cost of this repair?" Once the answer is "probably" then it is time to pull the rip cord.

tdi90hp · Sep 18, 2014

PFCoppinger said:
I tend to run cars until they are really quite dead, and then some. I have run a '93 Honda Civic, a '95 Volvo 855, and a '02 Taurus wagon well up over 200,000 miles-- the first two over 300,000 miles. Each of them would tag me with the occasional big bill, including the occasional $2500+ bill. Goes with the territory of driving an older car.

My evaluation was always first, is the engine still good? Every engine eventually starts to lose compression, and once they did, then the car was on death-watch. Second, is the body okay? The Honda rusted and rotted around an otherwise still-good engine. The third question is whether the repairs are hitting harder than a car payment. Car payment is in the range of $5000 a year, so if the repairs run north of that, then its time.

But I am always willing to fund a big-ticket repair if the repairs in the aggregate are still less than car payments, and the engine and body aren't going to die on me.

If you pay $30,000 for a new car, it will depreciate by $10,000 at least over the first year, and will cost loan payments on top of that. So I figure that the repair bill has to get pretty damn high before a new car is more cost effective.

Once things get close to the end, it is always "Can I buy a car this good for the cost of this repair?" Once the answer is "probably" then it is time to pull the rip cord.

Paid 29K for my Highline Golf TDI 6 speed in 11. Traded in on a Base NO margin car and was given 17K for car. They sold it in a week for 20K. I owned it almost exactly 3 years. I had 110,000kms on it when I traded. Losing 10K first year...??...uuummm...NO. The car cost me 12K + tax on 12K (got the tax savings on new car)+ regular maintenance and a set of snow tires. Just the car before tax cost 350 dollars per month. To me for the hassle factor it's worth it to flip every 3 years and pay 300-500 per month to drive a newer/ safer car. Your situation may vary. My new Mazda 3 was 18K and will pull 9K pretty easily in 3 years...numbers wont vary that much....another 10-12K to drive a new car for 3 years. I know the ALH guy with the 300K car that he bought for 4K and will drive for 4 years is laughing at me and saying what a waste of money but for my security and the fact that I drive long distances for work it simply is not an option to drive a beater. I don't work at the plant 10 miles away. My work often starts 6 Hrs away!

nakkers · Sep 18, 2014

2013 JSW at 89,000 kms and only regular maintenance. Passenger side fog light lens caught a rock and I run winter tires and rotate for the season and wear.

So far so good.

tadurkee · Sep 18, 2014

seth1065 said:
Ok you have a ton of miles no doubt, more than most will see ever, I assume the DMF, AC, and the DPF Cat ( 2 one) are not true wear items, I may be wrong about that. DId you have to think long and hard on any of them when it came time to put a good chuck of change done on repairs. I am leaving out what I think are maintenance items. I get you want to run it to it drops but did you think one more big repair and I am done???? Thanks for the reply.

I agree with PFCoppinger. For me to NOT get something repaired, it would have to be a pretty big expense, like an engine, turbo, HPFP or tranny. I didn't question getting any of the work I've had done up to this point. It was definitely needed and some were way overdue scheduled maintenance items (timing belt/water pump and DPF/cat). My JSW is paid off.

My situation is different than most since I drive for a living and average about 80,000 miles a year, so really take a big hit on depreciation. Doubt that I could find anyone who would want to buy a vehicle with almost 350,000 miles on it, or pay me what I thought it was worth, although I did sell a 1998 Chrysler minivan with over 500,000 miles on it for $1200. That was about 10 years ago, and yes, I drove it half a million miles and it was still running.

So as long as a needed repair does not cost more than the car is worth, while admitting it would be hard to determine that, I'll just keep fixing what needs to fixed, while saving up for my next vehicle, which will probably not be a TDI.

kjclow · Sep 18, 2014

My issue on the 2000 beetle were the things I couldn't find to repair. Like a bad or loose wire in the drivers door that often thought the door was unlocked while driving down the road. My wife didn't like the $1500 - $2500 we put in every year and didn't want another VW until I brought home the JSW. A year later, she's driving her own golf. In 70k miles, I think the only things I've done that I don't consider normal maintenance are a bent rim and a cv boot.

Tadurkee, you said you probably won't buy another tdi. Why is that?

skinnyb · Sep 21, 2014

45k on my 13 jsw and nothing other than service every 10k (including dsg at 40k). It has been tuned Malone 1.5 since 16k too and no issues at all yet.

High milage cost of ownership?

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