E-brake handle tight but won't hold car

intro

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Location
MA
TDI
02 Jetta Wagon
Hey guys,

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction here as I'm having little luck in other forums. Issue is I replaced the e-brake cables on my 02 wagon and did the adjustment, everything seemed fine. A week later the handle was loose again so I went in and re-adjusted but now, though I am able to get a very tight handle at 4 clicks it's not holding the car at all, so I failed inspection because of it. What should I be looking at. This is driving me bananas and I'm about to take it to the shop (which I'd rather not do as I changed them on my own) with zero issues.

Thanks in advance.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Does the cable pull the levers on the 2 back brakes?
It is common for cables to freeze (rust).
If the cables do pull the levers and the wheels still move, the calipers may be damaged.
 

intro

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Location
MA
TDI
02 Jetta Wagon
Cables are new. Possible to spray PB Blast on the actuator at the caliper if that's what's sticking?
 
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Dimitri16V

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Location
DE
TDI
01 Golf, 04 Golf
Lift rear of car , pull handbrake and spin wheels

Parking brake mechanism inside rear caliper fails . Fix it if you get under the car a lot
 

ffemtp

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Location
SE WI
TDI
2001 Jetta GLS TDI Deceased 11/2012, 2004 Jetta GL TDI Sold, 2012 Jetta TDI (Retruned to VW), 2004 Jetta TDI GLS 5spd
OK, this is not a scientific approach, or even a fix for that matter. However, it may get you past your inspection.

I had a brake job done on my car a while back. The E-brake worked great. Then, it slowly didn't work again, then not at all. One day I was on the Interstate cruising along at 70ish when I had to steer around some debris in the road. I went over a short section of the rumble strip at the side of the highway. Makes the car chatter quite a bit for a second or two until you are back in your lane. Anyway, right after that my E-brake worked again - perfectly. So, I had a cable that was hanging up underneath. Lubed it up, and the problem is solved.

Worth a try... If it works you can get thru your inspection and then worry about crawling underneath and checking the cables....
 

intro

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Location
MA
TDI
02 Jetta Wagon
Dimitri, does that mean I'll need new calipers? Hope not.

Ffemtp, thanks for the suggestion.
 

mittzlepick

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2001
Location
union maine
TDI
2004 jetta wagon (365k)2001 wagon tire burner 6spd 2003 wagon(417k)
bentley says adjust nut on cable till lever on the caliper just lifts of the stop. which if I did mine right the first time translated into 4-5 clicks. but I backed mine of to have lever come halfway up in its range and it worked better. but it would also fail a safety inspection if it were tested. Sadly i never had a vw that didn't disappoint me in the door handles and e-brake dept. Have you tried excercising the caliper by compressing it and using the lever on the caliper to improve it?
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
Dimitri, does that mean I'll need new calipers? Hope not.

Ffemtp, thanks for the suggestion.
you need to look underneath at the caliper while someone pulls and releases the e-brake inside.

See how much travel the cable engages the lever. And, like others have suggested, check your pads.

If the pads are good but the piston isn't moving you might try using the wind back tool on it first before replacing it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRNbn9bdJg
 
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JB05

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Location
Il.USA
TDI
Golf,2005,anthracite blue
Is the yoke up front at the adjustment nut even or does it tilt to one side?
 

intro

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Location
MA
TDI
02 Jetta Wagon
Thanks all. Sorted it out I think. Sprayed the heck out of the cable arms on the back of the calipers a couple of times throughout the morning with PB Blast and then backed the adjuster nut way off and checked the calipers again. The rear left had been holding fine but the rear right required some wacks with a rubber mallet to loosen it up, it was seized. Once I knew I had motion in both I went in and adjusted again but not as tight this time. Car now holds, let's hope it stays that way through the follow-up inspection. My plan now is to periodically spray back there with wd-40 to ensure it doesn't happen again this winter, especially with the brake engaged. Also came upon some posts re: a special spring that can be purchased at the dealer which I may follow up on.
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD



Before you install these, take a look at the engaging lever. I have a set of used GLI rear calipers and noticed rust on the bottom side of the brake lever.

I removed it, removed the rust and put caliper grease. I think it's enough to keep the emergency brake from activating the piston. Just something else easy to check in addition to the cable.

I'll try to post some pictures later tonight when I get home
 

steve6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Location
Beaverton, ON
TDI
2003 jetta tdi
Dirt salt and crap get into the mechanism, as per the picture above, take that 13 mm nut off, pop that arm off, and take a small flat and run it in circles inside the rubber boot around that arm, all kinds of crap will come out. Jam some grease or your favorite oil in there and you'll be good to go. those helper springs in the pictures above also really help when calipers start to get tired.
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
Dirt salt and crap get into the mechanism, as per the picture above, take that 13 mm nut off, pop that arm off, and take a small flat and run it in circles inside the rubber boot around that arm, all kinds of crap will come out. Jam some grease or your favorite oil in there and you'll be good to go. those helper springs in the pictures above also really help when calipers start to get tired.
Steve, that's what happened to mine. I would love to replace the rubber boot that sits underneath the e-brake lever but I can't find it in the USA. Just from the UK.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-M...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1b7be3c0



L
 
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volksukas1

New member
Joined
Nov 11, 2018
Location
Estonia
TDI
Golf IV Variant 85 kW TDI PD
I had such a problem that after the replacement of rear caliper rubber seals, caliper handbrake level did not apply after 1 - 3 mm play, but nearly at the end. On reinstallation the caliper cilinder should not turned inside more than needed to fit around the brake shoes. If turning more, then the hydraulic brake deforms the brake adjustment mechanism and it has to be taken apart for deforming back as it was.​
Good brake bleeding with vag-com as mentioned or with combined bleeding with brake pedal + vacuum pump could also be beneficial. I filled the caliper with brake oil before putting together but I don't know if this is necessary.​
 
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