Turbo Resonance Dampener Removal

ToeBall · Nov 21, 2010

PlaneJob said:
Where can I get a "Boost CFM" gauge? Wouldn't the volume of the air be dependent on the temperature? We should measure mass.

At the moment, no such sensor exists. We can measure velocity through an orifice and upstream velocity and calculate rho (fluid density) from that. If we also know the cross sectional area at the point of measurement of velocity, we can calculate the volumetric flow rate. It's just like horsepower, we have no direct way to measure it, we can only calculate it based on torque and rpm.

koharatx · Nov 21, 2010

Ryephile said:
Yes, that is correct. Turbines are thermodynamic devices and can use either heat and/or fluid pressure/flow to induce motion

Not so fast. A bigger hole, as you state it, means less pressure and less heat. While the total mass-air however may be greater, the wheel speed may not change at all, or even reduce. You'd have to cite specific aerodynamic charts [compressor or turbine wheel efficiency graphs] to say otherwise.

I think what's important here would be to measure the delta in pressure ratio between stock and the resonance damper removed. Only then would we have some good initial data to work from.

I have always been under the impression that this is what you want coming from the compression side of a turbocharger. When making power, CFM is what we're REALLY after, not more pressure.

n1das · Nov 21, 2010

How big of a job and how much time is involved in removing the muffler, hogging it out with a dremel tool, and then reinstalling it in the car?

I think it's something worth doing at a Dyno Day GTG to get before and after dyno runs.

ToeBall · Nov 22, 2010

It took about 3 hours doing it cold, trying to figure out the part and make sure it wasn't a bad idea to cut it apart, etc. I'm pretty sure with the right tools right there and knowing ahead of time what to expect, it'd take considerably less time.

mischievousMk6 · Nov 29, 2010

any update on the aluminum replacement?!

rix337 · Nov 29, 2010

I really think it would be better to have the larger tube installed, than just cutting out the muffler in a tube that is small anyway. As for the turbo lag improvement, that is probably from more airflow coming from the turbo quicker because of less restriction in the tube it is able to "charge" the air between the turbo and the cylinders quicker so less lag. I do agree that heat has a direct corilation to quicker spooling on the turbo, that is why almost every racing team uses ceramic wrapping on they exhaust manifolds and turbos to keep the heat in them to spool quicker.

ToeBall · Nov 30, 2010

Yes that, and to keep down the ambient air temp in the engine bay.

Cronus · Dec 3, 2010

Hmm I just pulled the muffler on my 2009 and I have to say it's not very plastic....

I'm going to need a bit of time but I'm determined to gut this thing today

TDIinTexas · Dec 4, 2010

mischievousMk6 said:
any update on the aluminum replacement?!

I just picked up a 2010 JSW, so give me alittle time to start working on this.

David

mischievousMk6 · Dec 6, 2010

awesome! thank you.

mischievousMk6 · Feb 12, 2011

Hey all, just to update.....I decided to take this weekend to remove my turbo damper and gut it. Came out pretty good. Looks very similar to the OP's pictures. Tried my best to radius the step up/down into and out of the damper pipe. I will say it was a pain in the @$$ to get out...and I even have small hands. I also managed to drop/lose my T30 torx socket somewhere below the turbo......never showed up again and I looked my best for an hour or so. Haven't driven the car much since but didn't notice much of a difference. It was still fun to do and hopefully I lost a bit of turbo lag. I am anxiously waiting for the aluminum replacement in the future!

mischievousMk6 · Feb 20, 2011

Just want to add; I noticed during the gutting process, there are several grooves cut circumferential along the length of the narrow section. I assume these grooves act as baffles as well but didn't have any way of removing them. One thought I had was to fill them in with JB Weld or something similar to smooth the pipe out. I'm not going back in there to do that now it is all back together on the car, but if someone wants to experiment, it may help a bit. Ideally, you would just want to remove as much of the wall material to get it the same diameter as the entrance and exit of the flanges, but it would be a lot of work and just easier for someone to make an aluminum replacement the full diameter. I hope TDIinTexas is still planning on making this as I would still be interested if it's possible to make one.

Thanks all and happy driving!

saucer · Feb 21, 2011

subscribed

1analguy · Feb 21, 2011

I think that the whole "vacuum cleaner vs turbocharger" analogy dust up (sorry, I couldn't resist) has it's roots in the misstated observation below (from post #26)...

IndigoBlueWagon said:
I would think that restriction on the exhaust side of the turbo would cause it to spool faster, not slower.

Now, if he had said "...restriction on the exhaust side of the compressor would cause it to spool faster...", then we would probably have all been in agreement. For a bit there, I also thought he meant a restriction in the turbine exhaust, and I was thrown for a loop, too.

One small thing...and I'm earning my user name here...this thread is about "turbo resonance damper removal", not "turbo resonance dampener removal". A damper is something that resists motion or oscillation. A dampener is something that makes things wet. Shock absorbers are suspension dampers. Lawn sprinklers are dampeners. I'm not sure why, but this common mistake is like fingernails on a blackboard to me. I know, I know...

ZiggyTheHamster · Jul 7, 2011

If the replacement pipe can be plastic and someone has SolidWorks and can make a model, I can probably use a 3D printer to make some prototypes for little to no cost.

Slo.Mo.Shun · Jul 7, 2011

I have SW, but have yet to pull the part from my car.

I am planing to make a replacement in metal, but I am waiting for the plasma table to be installed.

ZiggyTheHamster · Jul 7, 2011

Metal is probably better... but if someone had access to a dyno and could do before/after runs and plastic wouldn't melt or anything, I can probably print a prototype or two out and it ought to be free-to-me (college I went to has a 3D printer they love to show off). I don't know how to use SolidWorks and haven't done AutoCAD since high school, so that will have to be up to someone else

Rennsport · Jul 7, 2011

If someone could provide a CAD model I can easily have bits machined.

js0ne · Jul 14, 2011

What is 5A?

Since this version of ETKA is for the US only, I wonder if anyone has a different version that lists a part number for position 5A.

Rauss · Jul 14, 2011

One thing for sure... they are clearly diffrent in intake size and seals are different too.

vinistois · Jul 14, 2011

from that picture it looks like 5A is a tube with no damper, 5 is the damper.

instead of building one, maybe we can just source part 5A

ToeBall · Jul 15, 2011

vinistois said:
from that picture it looks like 5A is a tube with no damper, 5 is the damper.

instead of building one, maybe we can just source part 5A

5A looks exactly like what I pulled on my car and modified. Instead of a flat flange and gasket, it's got a recess with an o-ring. I think it's just a revision. You can see on of the baffles I cut out of mine.

Ryephile · Jul 15, 2011

On VWpartscenter.net, they show only the o-ringed one:

740GLE · Jul 15, 2011

vinistois said:
from that picture it looks like 5A is a tube with no damper, 5 is the damper.

instead of building one, maybe we can just source part 5A

That might also fall under the "What'd they change between CEBA, and CJAA powerplants to note a code change"

js0ne · Jul 15, 2011

740GLE said:
That might also fall under the "What'd they change between CEBA, and CJAA powerplants to note a code change"

It's the same illustration and position number for CBEA but the letter is different. It's an 'E' not a 'Q'.

PureDope · Jul 25, 2011

Sorry to resurrect, but thinkin about doing this today. Did you guys say those were two torx bolts? Do you seriously think this helps? I'm sure I'll know more once I actually see the part off of my car.

Rauss · Jul 26, 2011

I'm looking to do this as well. But I'll do it with aluminium part instead of plastic.

PureDope · Jul 27, 2011

Well my attempt was unsuccessful. That thing is deep in the depths. I was unsure how to take the coupler off. I usually struggle w/ tube-like fittings, but if I did get it off I wasn't really sure how I'd reach the dampener. Not to mention I lost a wratchet down there...so yeah.

mischievousMk6 · Jul 27, 2011

I posted earlier in this thread. I took it out, ground off the end baffles. There are still circumferential grooves that would need to be filled in if you really wanted it smooth. IMHO, its a lot of work for little (if any) gain. When someone makes a larger full-diameter replacement, I will swap out.

Final word: Not worth the effort until metal replacement is available!

Slo.Mo.Shun · Jul 27, 2011

I will get to the metal version soon enough (Plasma table is in

).

Now, I just have to get out of the hospital ( 20 days and counting

).

Turbo Resonance Dampener Removal

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