DSG mounting issues

I recently removed my trans and replaced the DMF went to put the trans back in and it will not seat. I have about a quarter inch gap all around that will not close? Is there something I need to jack up higher to drop it the rest of the way in? Anyone that can help out would be greatly appreciated!!

Try rotating the crankshaft at the pulley while engaging the trans to the engine.
Also, make sure none of the wiring, trans cable, etc... on top is getting caught in between.
Are the roll pins on the engine and mating holes on the trans clean?...put a little grease on them.

JETaah said:

Try rotating the crankshaft at the pulley while engaging the trans to the engine.
Also, make sure none of the wiring, trans cable, etc... on top is getting caught in between.
Are the roll pins on the engine and mating holes on the trans clean?...put a little grease on them.

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Everything is aligned it just has that last quarter inch that will not drop in,I turned the flywheel with a flathead about four teeth throught the starter hole. Still nothing everything is either tied back or pushed out of the way? Is there a way to guarantee the alignment between the two?
Thanks again!

Alignment is right when the tranny input shaft is on axis with the crankshaft and the two roll pins in the engine line up with their respective holes in the trans.

Some cars had a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft that the transmission input shaft engages.
Did you check the condition of the pilot bearing? They can get blown out and the needle bearings could have fallen out of their carrier.

I will look for the threads, but JETahh is spot on. What you do not want to do is force it with bolts. I know of 2 members who ended up cracking their blocks and the trans housings whilst R&Ring the DMF and forcing the matter with bolts. It should just slip together a little rocking and turning the crank should help.

Well i haven't forced the issue that hard but today while removing the bolts(yet again) the side of the oil pan the bolts go through did crack or possibly break? Once i have it dropped out again hopefully tomorrow time permitting i will know the extent of the damage to the pan. @JETaah I replaced the pilot bearing with the new DMF and from the look of the input shaft it was seated well in the pilot bearing as I used red bearing grease on the pilot bearing and now the shaft is red as well??

TBone - were you able to identify if you had a pan issue? Did you get the trans back in the car?

kbaisley said:

I will look for the threads, but JETahh is spot on. What you do not want to do is force it with bolts. I know of 2 members who ended up cracking their blocks and the trans housings whilst R&Ring the DMF and forcing the matter with bolts. It should just slip together a little rocking and turning the crank should help.

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Some people should never work on anything more complicated than a ham sandwich.

I'm assuming the OP is trying to armstrong the transaxle into place. A real good way to damage/bend something.

Get one of these if you are working from jack stands:

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

They work great, however, you will need to throw the useless strap away and have a helper steady the transaxle from above until you get the first bolt in.

Ol'Rattler said:

Some people should never work on anything more complicated than a ham sandwich.

I'm assuming the OP is trying to armstrong the transaxle into place. A real good way to damage/bend something.

Get one of these if you are working from jack stands:

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

They work great, however, you will need to throw the useless strap away and have a helper steady the transaxle from above until you get the first bolt in.

Click to expand...

Thanks Ol'Rattler.

We used a floor jack and two motorcycle tie downs, from above on the engine support bar, to make a pendulum swing for the trans. Second one, on a different car, is being a PITA. The first one slipped right in and you "felt" that it made the connection. Bolted up and had no issues. This second one, I am using a late model 2.0 DMF in the brm, since it is a bit strong. (That is not causing the mating issue - need to get the right angle and mate them up). I am fortunate as this car is purely a spare and I am in ZERO rush.

Finally got it back in today turns out the tin shield between the motor and trans had fallen into the path of one of the guide dowels?! Good grief this thing has been apart and together multiple times and i missed it! Tied up the lift for two months plus over something so simple!!
Thanks again guys for all your thoughts and help!!!

Well glad you found problem.Sometimes the easiest things are the stuff we overlook

Good grief now another issue with this trans! My buddy took the "geared" or toothed shift tab off the side and now that everything is back in the car will not shift past reverse. This is due to it getting jammed up on the gusset on the back of the trans directly behind it. I assume there is a certain position the shift selector should be in before it is put back on the gear but have no idea where to put it? The cable only reaches so far and then you have to use the slide piece between the cable and the geared tab. Anyone know of any way to figure out where either or both of these parts need to be for the car to shift correctly all the way to the bottom or "S" sport mode?
Any help you guys can give me or point me to in the forums would be appreciated I looked around but haven't found anything relative to this issue?