BRM Turbo Actuator Replacement Experiment?

TDIJetta99 said:

http://www.idparts.com/vane-actuator-replacement-kit-a5-brm-p-3218.html

Click to expand...

That actuator hasn't been available for some time. Has anyone called ID Parts to see if this is back in stock?

We have it in stock. We discourage people who are not VCDS savvy from buying it since the setup can be difficult for someone unfamiliar with VCDS.

Thanks for the update.

Windjammer said:

That actuator hasn't been available for some time. Has anyone called ID Parts to see if this is back in stock?

Click to expand...

It currently says they have 5 in stock on their site.

I agree with the vcds thing as they can be touchy trying to set up the actuator properly

Does anyone know how to get the custom bracket? Is it available separately?

Thanks,
Ron

So I dropped off the IDParts kit to my mechanic. He said that he had to manually extend the rod of the actuator in order to get the lever and bottom nut on. Because the turbo lever is at its end-stop and the actuator rod is not fully retracted, he says it won't work properly. I do see that there is about a half inch of rod below the bottom nut. Don't know if running the nut down towards the bottom of the rod will provide enough slack for the rod to retract back up to its normal position or not. Anyone else run into this situation?

Thanks,
Ron

Just fixed a 2006 Jetta with a bunk oil pressure warning and loss of tach with this exact part. A previous company already swapped the engine once for over $5k when an oil light came on!!! Engine was probably fine. Data showed the actuator was reading 60% no matter the position of the rod. The thing was shorting out internally and causing the computer to toss an oil light and kill the tach. I can't explain why, but the short caused the voltage to go somewhere else and cause the tach/oil light issue. I could consistently reproduce the issue by plugging the VNT actuator back in. 150k mile vehicle.

We just put one in from ID parts. It was an open box and I think they are the ones that source the fabbed bracket and put it on the actuator and then put it back in the box. It was a Borg Warner box.

Anyways...the rod is a little different length, so the counting threads method doesn't work to set it up. I went by an eyeball method of lining up the adjustment bolts relative to the mounting hole, but when I put installed it, the data showed I was at 20% engine off. I readjusted so the data showed 0% engine off. THEN I noticed it was swinging only to 80% max with max vacuum. Applied with my non calibrated mouth! I had to adjust the stop screw to get it to go to 100% on the data.

It fixed the problem of the tach and oil light, but still shaking out a no power issue. Vehicle has a P0408 code and won't boost. Wont rev over 2k at idle either. Starts smoking and knocking. I think it's in limp mode, but with the vacuum to the NEW VNT removed. You can drive it, but just with no boost.

Will a P0408 cause the car to be undriveable/limp mode? Gotta fix the EGR potentiometer still. I really hope the vehicle will finally get its boost back once this final code is gone.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=458709

Oh, and it ended up not being that hard to swap it. Just used a 10mm universal joint socket. Electrical tape on the OUTSIDE to keep the flex down. Electrical tape on the INSIDE of the socket to hold the bolt in place when starting it. It's a good trick! I use it on spark plug sockets that have lost the rubber, or any socket that I wanna hold the bolt in place.

So my mechanic was able to install the kit from IDParts after all. OI have an occasional studder that occurs around 2000 rpm under light load usually in second gear like others have mentioned. So my question is, what kind of adjustment is needed, adjustment of rod, VCDS as IndigoBlueWagon mentions above, or both. I have a VCDS but haven't found any explicit adjustment procedure.

Thanks,
Ron

Is Replacement of BW with Garreth turbo for BRM possible

I have Jetta 2006 TDI (I guess Mk 5/5.5), BRM engine.
It currently has "Borg Warner" turbo, which actuator started leaking vacuum about 5k miles ago, (car now has 185k miles). After (long) search I did find actuator for it (KermaTDI - from another model but with custom made bracket to fit BRM); however when disassembling actuator - its bolts stripped threads so it could not get removed from turbo ...

Seems my option now is to replace whole turbo - however I would rather go for Garreth turbo this time, to avoid same problem in future. Difference between BW and Garreth turbos is that while BW actuator does have electrical sensor in it - Garreth doesn't (i.e. again driven by vacuum but no sensor !), so my question is:
Is it possible to modify ECM of the car and disable software part for
the BW turbo electrical sensor actuator ? (Or any other workaround if s.o. wants to replace BW with Garreth turbo on a BRM engine.)

Malone tuning can turn off the sensor input then you will be able to use a different turbo without getting a code for the turbo.

We have a turbo from the 140 HP PD engine in Europe, its a Garrett: http://www.idparts.com/garrett-pd140-turbo-a5-brm-p-1993.html

It's also available with or without an electronic actuator.