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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old October 13th, 2017, 09:17   #16
BobnOH
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My understanding was it uses that dimmer only to light up the button. The power comes from a spare in the fuse box. Switched, hot, seems S5 is the one used for cars equipped with butt warmers.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 09:49   #17
KrashDH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonneber View Post
If I understand it correctly it uses the dash light dimmer for power?
If so do you need to dim the lights to shut the heated seats in the summer when you drive at night?
The Kufatec one does not included the correct control switches.
Hopefully not the original bad ones VW had a recall on.
I'm not even sure it could handle the power.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding it.
Dimmer wire that is tapped into is like Bob said, only used to light up the lights in the heat switches.

There is no need to dim the lights to shut the heat on the seats off...just turnn the controls to 0.

None of these harnesses come with the control switches, those you have to purchase somewhere else or get them from a wrecked vehicle.

Main power comes through the fuse box as stated (44) via permanent live (relay 30 under dash). Switched power comes either from fuse slot 5 or there is the relay (75X) under the dash that you can connect directly to.

When the key is off, there is no switched power, therefor the circuit cannot be completed...no heat. You turn the key to run, it fires the 75X switched relay, which powers all of the switched fuse panel slots. Connecting to it or tapping into the wire on slot 5 does the same thing essentially, provides the main power needed to heat the seats. There is another internal circuit to the switch though. If it is on 0, the circuit is open, therefor no voltage is received to the warmers. Turn that dial to any of the numbers, and then you close the circuit. The dial is essentially a resistor Increase the value on the dial, it decreases the resistance value, seat warmer gets hotter.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 12:33   #18
flashmayo
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There are a couple of excellent write-ups both here and on the Vortex site that detail how to make a non heated seat car a heated seat car. I did it on my 03 Jetta a few years ago following one done by Justin (oldpoopie) Thanks Justin! It was pretty simple, if a bit tedious, to use the VW repair wires to utilize the empty #44 position in the fuse panel on the left side of the dash. IIRC, I bought the heated seat harness from someone via Fred's, and the switches on eBay.
One mistake I made, and haven't fixed yet, was to pop the Driver's side switch through the opening on the passenger side, and vice versa. Oops.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 12:55   #19
KrashDH
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Originally Posted by flashmayo View Post
was to pop the Driver's side switch through the opening on the passenger side, and vice versa. Oops.
Could you elaborate on this? Are you talking about the harness or?
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Old October 13th, 2017, 13:01   #20
Norman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrashDH View Post
...

Is the Kufatec harness pictured the actual one? Reason I ask is on the Kufatec I see 4 cables all that have connectors on the ends of it. The one I purchased has 2 connectors (the ring terminal and one that plugs in the fuse box) and the other 2 are just loose wire.

From what I understand, the loose wires get spliced into a) the dimmer light power and b) The wires from fuse location S5 (gets a ring connector)

If that's the case, what's the point of the connectors on the end of the 2 wires for the Kufatec harness?

...

I think the pictured harness for the Model 30000 is just there for representation because it didn't look like the harness I got...which is why I pointed you to post #89 in that second link I posted because that is 100% accurate for the harness I got from Kufatec. Each and every wire connection is covered and there's no guessing what goes where. Basically there's a power wire, Ground, switched power, dimmer light, and I think one connected to the control switches in the dash.

The one that goes to the back of Pin 17 on the headlight switch is there to provide switch backlighting at night when you turn on your lights.

If you review that uk-mkivs.net thread, it'll be pretty clear what needs to be connected.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 13:10   #21
Norman
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Originally Posted by flashmayo View Post
...
One mistake I made, and haven't fixed yet, was to pop the Driver's side switch through the opening on the passenger side, and vice versa. Oops.
You may have already figured this out, but, the actual control switches themselves are all the same, there is no driver side or passenger side; what makes them DS or PS is the cut on the bezel to make it DS or PS, but you can just pop the bezel off and change out a control switch if one goes bad.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 13:16   #22
KrashDH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman View Post
You may have already figured this out, but, the actual control switches themselves are all the same, there is no driver side or passenger side; what makes them DS or PS is the cut on the bezel to make it DS or PS, but you can just pop the bezel off and change out a control switch if one goes bad.
Wouldn't the numbering and seat heater symbol on the switches be upside down though if you tried to flip them around? Internals may all work the same, but if you flip it 180 to put it in the other side you'd be all backwards.
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Old October 13th, 2017, 13:35   #23
Norman
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I don't have a switch in front of me right now, but I do recall looking at a switch (complete), and then comparing it with its mate on the other side and I do believe you can pop the guts out, so that would be the rheo part with the numbers and stuff and keep the orientation the same, but switch it to the other side and just switch the bezel.

I dunno, I could have been delirious from finally having heated seats after driving cars for over 40 some years...
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Old October 18th, 2017, 16:29   #24
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I've done one car and am about ready to do another. I bought both sets of Kufatec harnesses at the same time and I think it can about $120. I'd waffled all over the place on how to do this, and in the end the Kufatec route made the most sense (and seemed to be about the most cost effective- doing up harnesses would have been a bit of work (figuring lengths etc)).

First car I routed the seat-side wiring down the driver's side and then across. I believe this is the stock routing. This next time, however, I'm going to route down the console: I'm going to be upgrading the rear console section and installing a new stereo so it seems to make more sense.

There's a bit of head-scratching with the Kufatec harness due to it being labeled in German. This gets a bit distracting. If you really just look at how things function it's pretty self-explanatory.
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Old Yesterday, 07:36   #25
KrashDH
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Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
I've done one car and am about ready to do another. I bought both sets of Kufatec harnesses at the same time and I think it can about $120. I'd waffled all over the place on how to do this, and in the end the Kufatec route made the most sense (and seemed to be about the most cost effective- doing up harnesses would have been a bit of work (figuring lengths etc)).

First car I routed the seat-side wiring down the driver's side and then across. I believe this is the stock routing. This next time, however, I'm going to route down the console: I'm going to be upgrading the rear console section and installing a new stereo so it seems to make more sense.

There's a bit of head-scratching with the Kufatec harness due to it being labeled in German. This gets a bit distracting. If you really just look at how things function it's pretty self-explanatory.
Yeah the harness I'm receiving is pretty self explanatory. There are actually colored wires which makes more sense. Got the switches a couple days ago, and now waiting on the harness. I'll be routing down the center console as well, I don't mind having some extra coils/zip tying for ease of install. Sounds like you don't really need to remove the center console, just loosen it.
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Old Yesterday, 13:05   #26
UhOh
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I think that you have to remove the rear console section. Loosening is most of the work, in which case just remove it completely. You have to feed wires under the carpet. I used fish tape to pull wires from the driver's door but I don't think that that was necessary; anyway, some might find a fish tape to be useful.

While running stuff through the console it might not be much more work to run wires for a backup camera. I'm planning on doing this: new stereo will have AV for a camera and I might as well take advantage of it; that's my thought, which, as happens fairly often, is subject to change.

Last edited by UhOh; Yesterday at 13:47.
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Old Yesterday, 17:08   #27
flashmayo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrashDH View Post
Could you elaborate on this? Are you talking about the harness or?
These are the seat heat adjuster switches. They ended up in the opposite side they're supposed to be in. Passenger seat switch is on the driver's side etc.

John
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Old Yesterday, 17:11   #28
flashmayo
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Originally Posted by Norman View Post
You may have already figured this out, but, the actual control switches themselves are all the same, there is no driver side or passenger side; what makes them DS or PS is the cut on the bezel to make it DS or PS, but you can just pop the bezel off and change out a control switch if one goes bad.
The switches are the same, but if you run the driver's side harness so that it sits on the passenger side of the center console, you can get the customization I have.

JT
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