TDI ALH to 2002 Eurovan

Hey Ryan! I'd love any notes you have on wiring. BHW should be similar to the ALH, so it'd be a huge help!

Were you able to get ABS/ESP coded and working properly?

What year is your van and your motor/ECU? I've got a 2002 van and 2004.5 BHW. I think the biggest thing was getting the actual wiring diagrams from VW. I downloaded them online and then printed them out and taped them together like a big poster. This let me follow the connections/lines of the most important things rather than flipping through pages constantly. If you PM me your email address I'll try and send you some of the files I have.

I'm not getting power to the ABS/ECU pump so I haven't gotten it figured out just yet. I'm sure one of the wires that I've culled was connected somehow with the ABS pump. Or I've pulled a fuse that was needed. One of the things on the short list to figure out. I also kept the ABS pump/ABS ECU from the passat and have it and the inertia sensor from the passat wired into the van. As far as I know the ABS pumps will only work for the car/ECU that they came from VW with. The chip tuners haven't been able to figure out a good way to use a different one than Bosch/VW wanted. I've read quite a few threads on here and on the RossTech site about it, which is why I kept the passat ABS stuff with the ECU to try and make it work. We'll see.

We've had quite a few house projects that have kept me from playing with the van, though I think we're done for a while. Hopefully. I've got quite a few plans for the BlueVanube that I want to get to. Should be this fall/winter for sure. I'll keep you updated.

ocelotpotpie said:

ALH steel oil pan installed.

Click to expand...

do you have a Number or Detail to buy them ?

Kurtl said:

do you have a Number or Detail to buy them ?

Click to expand...

I got a full steel one, but I don't like that it doesn't have the flange against the transmission housing. Here is a link for a hybrid one with a steel bottom. I actually like this one better and might get this instead.

https://www.europaparts.com/engine-oil-pan-06a103601t.html

iwannajettatdi said:

I got a full steel one, but I don't like that it doesn't have the flange against the transmission housing

Click to expand...

the oem t4 (eurovan) 4 cylinder steel sump does not fit up against the bellhousing, theres a steel 'baffle' as used in the earlier cars.

easily made from a piece of tin if you think it's needed?



the 1X & ABL sump sorta looks like that

Rich.

Sorry for the lack of updates. I'll try to catch the thread up to where I'm at now.

I ordered a flange for the ALH turbo online and a stainless steel exhaust tube kit from Amazon. It's basically a bunch of straight and various bend pieces so you can put together a rough exhaust yourself.

Didn't get any photos of this because it was inside the car, but first I test fit the flange.

The flange didn't fit perfectly, so the holes needed to be drilled out a little bit to help. Once the flange fit I stood above the engine with my arms stuck behind it while Russell crawled underneath and oriented the first part of the downpipe.

From above I was able to keep the tube seated properly against the flange and Russell was able to check fitment and angles from below. This was a lot of trial and error. We'd tweak for a while, mark the flange and the tube, pull both off, temporarily fasten them together, insert, see that we needed a different angle, and then repeat the whole process.

It was time consuming, but we wanted to get a good angle to mate up with the rest of the stock exhaust and it's snug down there. The ALH turbo is very close to the firewall already and the Eurovan has the crossmember and steering rack that the downpipe needs to clear.

After a lot of marking and fussing about, we found a setup which made us happy and we tack welded the two pieces together and checked the fitment.






Our welding skills aren't great and this is stainless steel which we didn't have the right wire for anyway. We wanted to get it roughed out so we could check it off the list and work on the rest of the exhaust.


Next up - wiring. I was dreading this step. I spent a lot of time online reading diagrams, other swaps, and combing through a bunch of stuff to familiarize myself with the systems. I figured the first step was to yank the TCU wiring and existing engine bay harness. My idea was to take the body side / fuse panel side of the harness and repin as necessary but otherwise adapt the TDI harness into it. The ideal goal is to make is as OEM as possible.


First I pull down the fuse panel so I can get access to everything and see what I'm working with.



You have to reach behind the fuse panel mostly blindly and disconnect stuff. It's a real mess back there and I can't say it was fun at all. Here's the first few plugs disconnected and routed back up and out of the firewall.



I believe those are TCU connectors.




Here’s the passenger side engine mount we fabricated. I have photos somewhere of building this but I can’t seem to find them right now. Basically the upper part of the mount was from the stock one. The lower piece we built to bolt up to the ALH engine. Took a bunch of trial and error and tweaking but we ended up happy with it. Was a good day when the engine was finally resting off the chains and on its own mounts.

At this point we were sort of jumping around trying to wrap up a bunch of various things to get the van started. My friend needed his garage back so I was on a clock to finish or move it.

The 24v VR6 has quick disconnect fuel lines that have screw on ends for the fuel rail. I didn’t want to re-run new fuel lines so we cleaned out the existing lines to the tank and then modified the ends.



Here’s the stock lines leading to the tank. I wrote down which one was supply and which one was return about 50 times but I don’t have that in front of me right now. If I can find it I’ll edit this later to add.



The quick disconnect lines have metal crimped ends.



Some pliers to remove the clamp.



The stock lines sliced off the quick disconnects. They’re barbed ends so we can reuse these.



We get some new 5/16” fuel line and some new clamps and put the quick disconnect adapters on the new fuel line.




The lines run to the diesel fuel filter sitting in the stock spot. There’s a plate covering this but it’s easy to remove. We had to loosen one of the mounting bolts on the ABS bracket to get the filter in properly but it fits great.




Filter installed and testing line routing. I’ll probably reroute these eventually but it worked for now.



Lines run to the injection pump. I grabbed a bunch of fuel line clamps off an ALH in a junkyard nearby so I had plenty for all the connection ends.

Next up is clutch line routing.

The stock brake reservoir has a junction on the side for the master cylinder line. You clip off the end and put a line one.

I was lucky enough to find a junkyard manual Eurovan that had the lines still installed so I grabbed them along with the OEM firewall grommets.




This is the supply line to the master cylinder bolted to the clutch pedal. Clip the end off the plastic piece and install your line here. It routes into the firewall through the hole. The OEM grommet was nice to have.



This is the supply line to the clutch slave. There’s a brake line-style screw and hard line on the master that comes up here. Routing this in and getting it all connected was a pain. I was glad to have the OEM grommet and line for this, but if you had a line bender you could definitely make this work with off the shelf parts.



The hard line comes down to a disconnect and a flexible rubber line before making the final path down to the slave cylinder. The van that I grabbed parts from had a bracket on the disconnect portion here that was bolted to a firewall bolt. However, when I tried to install it I couldn’t get the angles to work properly. I’m not sure if this is my fault or the model year differences with the donor van being a 1993 and this a 2002. Either way I left it off for now.



The line then runs down and screws into the slave cylinder mounted on top of the 02B.

I’ve had bad luck in the past with plastic slave cylinders so I made sure to get a metal one. I have no idea if it’ll be better or not but it’s very easy to access from above if I ever need to replace it.


Once all the lines were installed we bled the clutch until we got decent pedal feel and no more bubbles out of the slave. This took a while and required three people. One to press the clutch, one to hold the line, and one to loosen the bleeder. Probably could have done it with one if I had a power bleeder or two if we had a little more space to move. It’s tough getting access to the slave cylinder even with the wheel missing and the van on jack stands.

How did this turn out? Where is the rest of the build? Did you move to another forum?

Wrong thread, whoops!