Hello I have a 2002 beetle TDI ALHWith 265,000 miles my injection pump Was ticking For a while and recently started leaking I had bought a new injection pump a few months prior I have followed the step by step thread on here on how to do it followed it to a T And only have crank but no start so I need some help figuring out what’s the next step thank you
IP change no start! Help!!
- Thread starter Vwcapp
- Start date
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
Can you confirm you have fuel spraying from the injector lines when you primed it? Have you tried moving the IP ever so slightly both directions and tried to start? Obviously not both directions at the same time, advance the pump and try it and then retard the pump and try it
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
I've had to move the pump on the first few belt jobs I did...I'd try that
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
Sounds good
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Assuming you did follow the instructions to a T....... If you set the IP Sprocket in the center of the slotted bolt holes, it will start! If not, you need to go back and check your work.
Set the Cranshaft on TDC at the flywheel (confirm that #1 Cylinder is at TDC) and Pin in the IP, correct hole. And, to better confirm things, you should remove the valve cover to install the Cam holding plate. The plate will only go in place if the Exhaust and Intake lobes are basically pointing toward 10 and 2.
Set the Cranshaft on TDC at the flywheel (confirm that #1 Cylinder is at TDC) and Pin in the IP, correct hole. And, to better confirm things, you should remove the valve cover to install the Cam holding plate. The plate will only go in place if the Exhaust and Intake lobes are basically pointing toward 10 and 2.
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
I suspect that's why I had to move the IP, I was just a hair off. The last belt job I did, it fired right up and the timing was right on the middle line, one day I want to advance it closer to the top line but it runs good so I hate to mess with it.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
What is the ideal position between the blue and green lines? Mine seems to idle right on the blue line when it's at operating temp, but I read somewhere else where someone was shooting for the '64' mark, but I don't know why. Sorry for thread jacking...please forgive.
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
The middle line is said to give you a little better fuel efficiency and the top line is supposed to put more power down.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
To potentially save a little time, what vendor did your new pump come from?
WildChild80
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2016
- Location
- Nashville, AR
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
Did you replace the timing belt or just change the IP? If you only changed the IP, did you take the cam sprocket off?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
No did not take the cam sprocket off, and did further investigation and it was not in tdc put it back in tdc and still same symptoms. I did put a vacuum pump on the return line I’m getting air bubbles but no air bubbles from the feedline from the filter.
Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
Tdijarhead
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2013
- Location
- Lawrenceville PA
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Do you have an auto or a manual transmission? I ask because one has a 10mm pump (manual) the other an 11 mm pump (auto) the 11 is an upgrade to the manual transmission the 10 I’m told won’t run well on an auto.
Buying off eBay was probably not a good idea. Was the seller “prothe” by chance?
Buying off eBay was probably not a good idea. Was the seller “prothe” by chance?
Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
There are known vendors with a very bad track record.
If your new pump came from one of them you are likely wasting your time (and everyone else's, actually
) troubleshooting it.
*That's* why we are asking to know the specific vendor.
If your new pump came from one of them you are likely wasting your time (and everyone else's, actually
) troubleshooting it. *That's* why we are asking to know the specific vendor.
Tdijarhead
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2013
- Location
- Lawrenceville PA
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Hopefully you didn’t get it from this guy.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=320500&highlight=Hansauto
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=320500&highlight=Hansauto
jokila
Vendor
If all it was doing was leaking fuel or allowing air to leak in, then it's not too hard to redo the seals on it. Kit is less than $20.
WHat was wrong with the pump that made you swap it?
jokila
Vendor
That is not how you time the cam, crank, and IP. If you don't allow the cam sprocket to turn while you are tensioning the belt it will most likely make the IP sprocket move (i am going to guess you had the three bolts tightened too). That will not only mess up the timing relationship, but it puts a strain on the belt.
I would verify the situation by putting the crank at tdc, verify the cam is at TDC, and the IP is at its TDC spot. It will start up if you have those correct assuming the pump is full of fuel and injectors primed.