i have a early 99 jetta tdi the temp gauge is not working all the time and the temp light is blinking then the gauge will work for a few minates the temp light go out i have changed the sensor in the house and the one in the inlet at the head is there an other one for the temp gauge or should i be looking for some thing else the antfreeze is up or would i have an air lock some where the gauge has not been reading fight for a while thanks mike
temp gauge not working
- Thread starter mike1937
- Start date
P2B
Top Post Dawg
It would be easier to help if you followed up your other thread rather than starting another with new information about the same problem 
Did replacing the sensor at the head fix the P1255 code? Do you have any other codes?
The flashing temp light is probably a separate problem - it means low coolant level. If the level is above the min line and the light is flashing, check the wiring to the level sensor and/or try cleaning the reservoir.
Simon
Did replacing the sensor at the head fix the P1255 code? Do you have any other codes?
The flashing temp light is probably a separate problem - it means low coolant level. If the level is above the min line and the light is flashing, check the wiring to the level sensor and/or try cleaning the reservoir.
Simon
here,s whats happening the needle on the gauge does not move but it will move and the light go out but it only move,s a little could it be that if the needle does not move the light flashs that the engine is to cold does any one know witch sensor is for the temp gauge
P2B
Top Post Dawg
Sorry, I'm getting a bit confused
The flashing temp light means low coolant level - there is no "engine too cold" indicator on your car, and as far as I know, no other reason for a flashing temperature indicator.
The sensor for the temp gauge is the one at the head you said you replaced.
The next step would be to check whether the sensor is reporting the correct temperature to the cluster using VCDS (aka VAG-COM).
Simon
ok lets see if i changed the right one i did the one in the hose and the one at the plastic inlet i see one more sensor at the end of the block a single wire bass screw in one is that the one for the temp gauge the gauge has been reading less and less for the last year as i drive it the gauge goes up a little and the light goes out should i change the brass one thank for any input mike
2ManyKMfor1Tank
Veteran Member
Sorry to nitpick, but your posts lack the punctuation necessary to make yourself understood.
Have a look at what a few dots and comma's can do to change a paragraph:
What you wrote:
ok lets see if i changed the right one i did the one in the hose and the one at the plastic inlet i see one more sensor at the end of the block a single wire bass screw in one is that the one for the temp gauge the gauge has been reading less and less for the last year as i drive it the gauge goes up a little and the light goes out should i change the brass one thank for any input mike
What it should look like:
Ok. Let's see if I changed the right one. I did the one in the hose, and the one at the plastic inlet. I see one more sensor at the end of the block: a single wire brass* screw in one. Is that the one for the temp gauge? The gauge has been reading less and less for the last year. As I drive it, the gauge goes up a little and the light goes out. Should I change the brass one? Thank you....
Isn't that just a touch easier to understand than what you wrote?? I am no English major, and don't pretend to be smarter than anyone else here but to me, if I can find a way to better describe my problems I figure it'll make for an easier fix.
I have to say, this Ontario forum has some of the most helpful people you will find anywhere.
Last edited:
P2B
Top Post Dawg
The sensor for the temp gauge is the one in the plastic inlet at the head you said you replaced.
The other one in the hose you replaced is the A/C cutoff switch. The screw in at the end of the block is one of the oil pressure switches.
The next step would be to check whether the sensor is reporting the correct temperature to the cluster using VCDS (aka VAG-COM). Assuming the new temp sensor is good, the problem is most likely wiring harness damage or the gauge itself. Cleaning the grounds under the battery might also help.
If you don't have VCDS and want to take a run down to DVP & Sheppard sometime, I can check it for you.
Simon
The other one in the hose you replaced is the A/C cutoff switch. The screw in at the end of the block is one of the oil pressure switches.
The next step would be to check whether the sensor is reporting the correct temperature to the cluster using VCDS (aka VAG-COM). Assuming the new temp sensor is good, the problem is most likely wiring harness damage or the gauge itself. Cleaning the grounds under the battery might also help.
If you don't have VCDS and want to take a run down to DVP & Sheppard sometime, I can check it for you.
Simon
Last edited:
It's worth noting that the A3 clusters were not the most reliable. Many suffered from broken cold solder joints on the cluster circuit board which would make many of the gauges inoperative intermittently. Solution was to remove the cluster and reflow the solder for the rear wiring harness connector where it connects to the cluster board.
As far as the grammar and spelling, you will get more accurate responses if you spend a few more minutes editing your post to better convey your message.
Openoffice from Sun Microsystems is free, and has a very good spelling and grammar check if you want to check your posts before pressing the submit button.
As far as the grammar and spelling, you will get more accurate responses if you spend a few more minutes editing your post to better convey your message.
Openoffice from Sun Microsystems is free, and has a very good spelling and grammar check if you want to check your posts before pressing the submit button.