Golf Mk3 1Z build

Hi Guys!

After some random posts to this forum, I think it´s time to introduce myself better. I am writing from Jyvaskyla, Finland, 136 000 resident city on middle of our small country. I am working with my own online store for car parts. Happily we have quite active, informative, and these days could even say, professional small bunch of people on TDI tuning on our country, so it has helped a lot for this hobby development.

I´ve been into tdi´s for probably 7 years now and mostly specialized for the older VE´s, built and adjusted few tdi engines past the time, and got few important friends from local forums who has shared this hobby with me.


Golf Stage 1 first start after 2 weeks of building. Lets return for it after small introducing.

I´ve build one VW Taro on probably years 2007-2009 ( Same car as Toyota Hilux ) with 2.4 Diesel engine and Holset HX35. It had bit over 200hp and 400Nm on it, but wasn´t really happy for old diesel engine with mechanical pump.



Taro dyno: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE773ii6d7k

Quickly made an new engine for it too after several piston problems.
Sold this car out on 2012 as I remember, and never going back to Toyotas.



On 2009 i bought an Seat Cordoba -99 with AHU engine for daily use where I installed generally recommended bigger aftermarket parts what I heard and red they would be a key for happiness. Well, they kinda were. I Installed 2056V, then GT2260V then new GTB2260VK, 11mm IP, Ultime 2 nozzles, 3" exhaust, 450x300mm IC, NPS head, grinded cam, oil cooler, W/M, longer 5th, and some small other small modifications and dynoed 251hp out from it and drove 241,2km/h on standing mile. Bottom end was stock and bit over 500kkm driven when I sold it out later. I also started get the hang on programming ECU on myself for these older ones, so basically I was able to do every software modifications what is needed by myself or by my friends.



I only have one bad video from Seat from standiong mile, where i had problems with underbody protectors on high speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4bJF-bWr3Y

2012 I bought very mint, red Golf Mk3 TDi with 1Z engine, Holset HE221W, Ultime 2, 11mm, cam, and other basic tune ups, where i found about same numbers (260hp or so) than dynoed from Seat. Kinda feel embrassed that i built (and drove) Seat for a years, and this made slightly better dyno sheet with veery simple modifications. Sold it out on 2013. I liked WG turbo better than VNT and mk3 chassis a lot, so later i was thinking to buy more cheaper and uglier car for testing purposes that i do not need be pity for making chassis changes or using grinding machines and ruin too good car. I was heading for simple and quick but effective modifications, and got some friends interested from the project too.



Video from my old Golf 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkcwynKsp30

After few years and tens of different kind of TDI tunes and experience i was heading for bigger numbers and better speed on standing mile. Sold Seat too, and 2013 winter I bought cheap ( almost free ) 400kkm+ driven stock Golf Mk3 for a new tune, where i was thinking to approac tuning from different directions than usual and I do not do any extra than needed for heading good numbers, handling and use on street. Car had original unopened 1.9 1Z engine on it, working fine. Car itself was enough "ugly", just what i was looking for. Although, it had AC, cruise, Eberspaecher, electric roof window, all el. windows, and later bought Vento leather seats and made light sound insulation, so small bit for a comfort too.



This was my daily on 2013 winter, and I started to make stage 1 tune for this car on spring 2014. After working 1 week on carage with my 4 friends, and another week and few days by myself, here´s what I got out after many nights spent on carage, on early dynoday morning 4AM:



On this point, let´s go few days back where we started. On 2014 spring I bought all parts what is needed to built up an powerful engine with small budget, and also whole car needed to be built in few weeks so we needed to save time too. So basically budget was about 3000USD, and there was work hours from about 2 weeks to make all together so engine removing from it´s place wasn´t really an option. It wasn´t needed that much too since we had another base engine where to make header arrangements and others. Happily, I had few very important friend helping me to build this interesting project for one week, built would not been succeeded without these friends.



Here´s an list, what parts we used for this engine:

-Unopened 1Z bottom end with dropped CR and deeper valve hollows
-Engine and tranny turned towards a bit with washers
-Holset HX35 super, comp 54/77mm and turb 55/65mm 8cm2 single entry
-Modified flipped AFN header with 1" spacer from head
-38mm Tial copy WG to EGR flange
-0.341mm H-flox ( first version )
-11mm 107J IP
-Head porting by my friend and bigger valves from NPS
-Grinded cam from original ( 9,8mm lift as i remember )
-ARP head bolts
-450x300x76mm Chinese IC
-Devilsown water injection with #10 nozzle ( I am working as DO importer to Finland now )
-2.5" boost pipes
-3.5" side exhaust with one big and one small silencer and V-band connectors
-Carter fuel pump
-Universal bigger fuel filter
-Universal cheap "free flow" air filter
-12/10mm fuel lines and modified fuel sender unit for bigger pipes
-Innovate MTX-L Wideband
-Auber instruments fast EGT probe with very cheap chinese EGT display
-Changed original 02A to 02J for better shift feel, and raised shifter upside of tunnel for making more space for exhaust silencer and have shifter upper too. One of the best modifications on this car for driving feel!
-228mm Sachs SRE pressure plate, SRE release bearing, normal Golf VR6 organic disc, original flywheel.
-MSA15 Ecu from 6K Cordoba replacing original 8bit ECU
-4 bar MAP
-Tuningart coilovers
-H/R 22mm(FR) and 25mm(RE) Anti roll bars
-TT Audi solid rubber bushings on front struts and poly bushes on rear axle.

OEM rod bolts costs as much as working bottom end, so we saved lot of time and money that we didn´t needed to disassemble whole engine for piston modification, that´s why we modified pistons on their place.



I´we experienced stock bottom´s are quite robust since I haven´t got any bigger damages excluding normal worn even after very heavy use on tracks and lots of hard driving. Main thing is to tune properly without too much of pressure or heat at wrong place, and simply _listening_ and _reading_ how engine performs, good tune will give you good numbers and durability. So, i was thinking to go with original slightly modified parts to find out the limits for stock parts. Also stock bottom ends are easy to have and they cost nothing if it will suffer damages some day. I hope, it will be beautiful once this happens.

Do you like it? Stay tuned for next chapter.

Nice build power !
Do you cant tell us more About compound turbo build
Do you also have problems with the oil/vacuüm shaft mine still snaps off That ring
So it have alot of in out travel what damage mine belt
What turbos can be used and how to controle emp on both turbos
Thanks

good post.
nice combination of the VE TDI and a holset turbo.
I'm also a MK3 enthusiast.
will follow this thread.

Nice to read a thread about your cars Anything new for the spring dynoday?

nice post! I have enjoyed your other posts in the past. Your mentality to modifying these cars is a nice fresh change to the typical type of posts that you see on this website.

Your car was part of the reason I decided to do an he211 in my audi 90 quattro with an AHU engine swap.

Been waiting to see more from you, very interesting the direction you have taken, leaving the bottom end alone and the huge single turbo, relative to most on here.

What kind of injection timing are you running? That's a big "dark art" where I'm pretty sure I'm running too much at 25 degrees (when QA (N146) is at 5V above 4500 RPM).

mk1-83 said:

Do you cant tell us more About compound turbo build

Click to expand...

Pretty sure he's just running the single HX35.

Apomiett, mk1-83, GOFAST, vtpsd, [486] thank you for your feedback. Apomiett, This spring i´ve installed bit under 0.5mm nozzles for the engine, and first tests will follow after few days I hope. Nozzle tips were feeling exceedingly smooth quality and made good spray even with low pressure, so I anxiously await how do they perform. Car also needs to renewing for all front bushings and joints again, because hard driving and fwd only does wear them so quickly.

This setup is with single HX35 turbo. If I need more air, i´ll go for compound or S356V (have it on shelf too). I also have NOS bottle if i need more air on those rare situations, so would it be worth to renew whole turbo setup when this is enough good and working fine. I don´t know, We´ll see that on future.

Oil/vacuüm shaft ring hasn´t been problem with unmodified 11mm pump and heavy ALH pump sprocket.

Thank you vtpsd for your comments, nice to hear! I´ll tell regards to people helping with this built I do this with own style, based on long testing and experience. That´s certain these stock engines would not last everything, main thing is to try to use them right.

I felt that i need to do my own topic from this build since few people are even aggressive and angry when i´ve tried to give some hints how i´d do it and that, and which part tolerates what and how much. So, this is my built and one example what parts is used and how do they perform. Here is open space for criticize.

[486] with this fueling setup last time i´ve used 20 degrees timing betweel 5000-6000rpm on full injection, which helped a bit for exhaust temperatures compared to 17-18 degrees, which is issue on standing mile. However, When 20 degree timing is used, engine runs cooler but i´ve noticed from cooling system pressure that it causes bigger stress for engine and head gasket. There isn´t really huge matter on power do I use 2.5 or 3 bar of boost, but again on mile, engine runs cooler with 3 bars, but may slightly drop top power. With new injectors, i will start testing from stock 16 degrees.

We must remember this car has not been built to do only quarter mile and highest possible HP, it must take full mile, and another, and another with full throttle, also trackdays and all daily drives without temperature or pressure problems. This is the car what you drive to the track, drive whole day and drive back home.

Still, I am heading to 400hp without NOS with this setup later, and maybe 270km/h standing mile result is also coming.

But let´s go back to 2014 again:


Modified fuel sender




Turbo, header and wastegate ready for install


Definite machining

Working with exhaust pipe:








After stage 1 was ready, friend made quickly rough software tune before we left driving to dyno place 180km from our carage. On dyno we had only 17.5:1 AFR with 2-2.2 bar of boost and original injection timing, but didn´t had any time for make tuning better. We got 351hp and 520Nm with only hint of smoke even with open screamer pipe.

Footage from our Dynoday 2014: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_M-sDfnEz4

I drove 10 000km on the 2014 summer time without abnormal technical problems with same tune because lack of time. Usually Finnish winter is cold and icy and CR dropped FWD will not survive from it reasonably, so i bought an AWD PD Highline Bora for winter time and slightly tuned it quickly with +120% Firads, 2260VK and installed Eberspaecher from Golf which had it installed when bought it. Unfortunately this car is again on carage and about everything renewed. Maybe i´ll show some pic from it too later.

I also have T4 2.5TDI Syncro with GT2559V and 0.26mm, girlfriends Golf 5 4-Motion BKD with GT2260VK and Bosio´s on carage all with plenty much of other modifications, then stock Golf 4 ASZ 4-motion and Passat B5 AFN Syncro´s... Could say this is somekind of sickness

There´s still more to come, and comments are welcome. Thank you for your interest!

Hi power youre hx35s is 8 cm turbine house
What boost you make at 3 gear at 3500 rpm
Would-be a hy35 spool up better in 8cm house
Im maybe try Some holset turbo in futher

p0wer said:

[486] with this fueling setup last time i´ve used 20 degrees timing betweel 5000-6000rpm on full injection, which helped a bit for exhaust temperatures compared to 17-18 degrees, which is issue on standing mile. However, When 20 degree timing is used, engine runs cooler but i´ve noticed from cooling system pressure that it causes bigger stress for engine and head gasket.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, no soot in my coolant yet with the tiny pp764s, I'll be sure and back it off when the new nozzles go in though.
When you routered your pistons did you cut any off the lip of the bowl, or just the valve reliefs?

Nice build! Where did you source poly bushing for the rear axle beam?

what are you using for tuning software? Do you still use the AHU ecu, and write new files to chips every time you need a retune?

I like this approach to tuning, cutting the pistons like that in situ is genius.

Have you adjusted vcds limits to read correctly? Or do you follow mtx-l and pump volts? I'm guessing you're running map based tune.

Well, haven´t got much time to write here. Again, Golf has been worked well whole summer, changed oil once and one pair of front tires again

Thank you ketchup! Some vcds limits has also been adjusted, but only the ones I need. I fine tune with wideband and naturally use MAP based tune.

cal327, poly´s are from local supplier. Will find them from ebay too for sure.

But once again, let´s go back what happened earlier.

On next spring 2015 i was thinking to make Stage 2 tune for the Golf, and invest another week for it. Golf had 256mm discs and drum brakes, which may not were enough good to stop from higher speeds any more, so i installed 280mm discs and Audi S2 calipers to the front and stock 239mm discs and ABS calipers to the rear, all with braided hoses and race fluids. They are responsive and powerful without fading away even on track driving, so they were veeeery good update. This car has ABS brakes so main cylinder is 23,8mm which is biggest one on mk3. Still, i need to adjust brakes more to rear since they are bit too front-oriented. Installed also coilovers and H/R stabilizer kit to the front and rear and choosed new tires with small rolling resistance. This summer it´s time to go standing mile!

Raised boost up to 3 bar and increased fueling between 4000-6000rpm, and got 265,7km/h on stading mile. Since this is daily, naturally it´s driven to the track and back forward to home (500km each side there). I also took maybe 10 runs there and made some small adjustments during the day.

These videos may be familiar from earlier posts i´ve done:

Standing mile in-car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzWA8dayfuI
Standing mile speedo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKofLl3O2s8

After the whole day running on the airfield having bit fun, and as it happens i´ve achieved best burnout price from it. I was only participant though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=241uRn248Z8

I visited Dyno last autumn and got 377hp and 613Nm, which was small disappointment compared earlier sheet, and especially power on 5000-6000rpm. What I don´t know yet, is why torque comes on so high rpm´s since engine has full 3bar of boost on 3300-3500rpm. Either cam starts to work after 3800rpm, or there is still lack of fueling between 3300-4000rpm. Haven´t really done nothing for it, just driving. Main reason for high boost at the moment is EGT, engine runs cooler with bit more boost.

Footage from our another dynoday on 2015. Bit more smoky this time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21HOro2ZUq8

Maybe i try NPS Stage 2 cam as well, will it help for 3300-4000 rpm area. Still, i can say that i really do not need more torq for this "problem" area, but dyno slips would look better though. Clutch will still take 50-100Nm more without problems I think, but maybe 02J tranny may not like much over 650Nm. This far, zero problems with them on last 3 summer and 30 000km driving.

Car drives just perfect and its economically on daily, and brawls hardly when hitted on pedal after 3000rpm. Chassis and tires is just perfect for hard road driving. Not too hard or soft, and grabs road incredibly well. Also it has tow hitch, which has been weekly on use because my house renovation on summer.


Bit over a ton there


There´s an chinese street legal "Monkey" with full race 170cc engine on trailer which i built few years ago. At least once there´s something shiny!

nice power, im building a amr500 comp with a gt32v hybrid turbo 51/76mm comp
the comp with magnet clucht.

big valve head 35 ex 38 in and nps 10mm cam
fuel 12mm de143 and .360 dssr.

goal 350+ hp with good low end

mk1-83 said:

nice power, im building a amr500 comp with a gt32v hybrid turbo 51/76mm comp
the comp with magnet clucht.

big valve head 35 ex 38 in and nps 10mm cam
fuel 12mm de143 and .360 dssr.

goal 350+ hp with good low end

Click to expand...

Good setup, just wrong nozzles for that goal. And maybe you have to write own thread for your setup.

Yucca Im use a oem 12mm head so I think the bad nozzles will dilver the fuel I need,
I know you prefere hflox and maybe try gibona nozzles

Great result from and old engine!
Top work

im jealous, how come in the states we dont get these results????

1986.5supra_kid said:

im jealous, how come in the states we dont get these results????

Click to expand...

Simple: Too small nozzles, too small turbos. Change those and use european software gurus.

Yucca said:

Simple: Too small nozzles, too small turbos. Change those and use european software gurus.

Click to expand...

I can not add anything to that.

Nice numbers, any dyno graph? I want to see the area of the curve, get an idea of when torque and max hp hit.

This is how mine responds, last dyno which was ages ago. 16PSI@2000 32PSI@2700 380ft-lbs@2700 226whp@3500.

Haven't touched it since, it had more to go, just no time to tinker.

What pump are you running in the tank?

I don't see a pressure regulator in the pictures or the videos, so I assume some sort of low pressure aftermarket pump, but with how the rest of your build is refreshingly different, maybe you're running a real high inlet pressure at the injection pump...

kooyajerms said:

Nice numbers, any dyno graph?

Click to expand...

they're in the videos

Actually it was only in the second video. Which I missed. I guess the late Max HP/Torque doesn't matter much when you've got 150hp to putt around town with in the "lower" RPMS.

I think that p0wer is using Carter P4600HP 100GPH lift pump. It is carburetor model so it does not make high pressure.

Yucca said:

I think that p0wer is using Carter P4600HP 100GPH lift pump. It is carburetor model so it does not make high pressure.

Click to expand...

The pictures of that do look somewhat similar to the fuel filter and filter base in the engine bay, but that's definitely a fuel filter. There's a pic of an in-tank pump a few posts back.
ETA: that would explain why there's only a two wire connector to the sending unit though, if there isn't a pump in the tank...

[486] said:

The pictures of that do look somewhat similar to the fuel filter and filter base in the engine bay, but that's definitely a fuel filter. There's a pic of an in-tank pump a few posts back.
ETA: that would explain why there's only a two wire connector to the sending unit though, if there isn't a pump in the tank...

Click to expand...

That is NOT an in tank pump...merely a mk3 sending unit that he modified to allow for more fuel volume to pass through as the stock fittings are near to 5/16 feed and 1/4 return respectively. Not a bad idea and has me thinking...

Oh! I see it now, it's right in front of the rear axle beam in the pic showing off the rear discs and the sway bar.

Hi power any news about you project still running fine
What you're thinking about a hy35 as single turbo
How would that spool up

I imagine it would spool very similar to p0wer's setup. hy has 9cm housing and this hx35 has a 8cm housing.

Hi! Just few weeks ago let Golf to winter rest, this summer was just normal driving without problems, and without remarkable upgrades -or, in fact had some downgrades from 0.341mm Hfloxes to 0.360mm Gibonta, and I borrowed H-Floxes to buddy for this summer who made 386hp/638Nm with them and modified S200V "Small Deere". With unmodified 11mm pump and nozzle bodies good old 0.341mm H-Floxes seem to work more better, lost ~20hp with 0.360 G´s compared to 0.341mm with same AFR. I think 0.360 G´s needs some tricks to work better, what i was thinking to try for next year.

I will modify nozzle bodies flow more better and hopefully bit bigger injection pipes, i think these could allow 12mm head using with DE143 head without breaking. This could lead for better performance with 0.360+ nozzles. Oh yeah, and ofc i need to find some good 12mm rotor somewhere first.

HY35 looks like very similar turbo, i think it would work quite same. I´d recommend for external WG though.

Thank you Lucian 189.

Kooyajerms, i´ll get an slip somewhere. Full boost is 500-700rpm before max torque, I have paid attention mainly for maximum power only this far.

Yes, I do use Carter P4600HP 100GPH lift pump, modified mk3 sending unit and universal bigger fuel filter on this setup. Cannot be more happier for them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2uD6NCF_HY

There you can find dyno pulls of my Golf with 0.360mm and friends Golf with my nozzles and small Deere made this spring. Like earlier, we did quickly measure only for maximum power from my car, didn´t pay attention for big torque readings. Also dyno ratio wasn´t correct on my run so slip is bit amiss, it revs up to 6100rpm and full injection until 6000.

Thank you Diffas for video again!