SMF vs DMF a good SMF??

Looks like we are going to be replacing my DMF on our 03 Jetta. Was considering replacing the DMF with a SMF. From what I have read the SMF's are a little noisier but more durable. Are there any out there that are better than others? My Jetta is totally stock and I don't plan to do any power upgrades or changes.

Use the 21-22lbs smf and you will suffer from no noise whatsoever.

I just replaced the clutch in my 2000 Jetta.

I used a Valeo VR6 / G60 clutch and flywheel. I don't hear any additional noise at all.

It's a good clutch if you don't plan on doing any mods, or very little mods.

I would suggest doing the slave cylinder at the same time if your car has a decent amount of miles on it. I didn't do my slave cylinder and then after I replaced my clutch It was slipping really bad. I was frustrated because I thought I did the installation wrong. Turns out my slave clyinder had bit the dust too.

If you re-use your old flywheel make sure you get it re-surfaced.

Here are some additional things you should definitely do while the transmission is out and installing the new clutch:

1. Get a new throw out bearing
2. Transmission fluild change
3. Rear main seal
4. Oil pan gasket

If you have any questions PM me, I just did this job and am way too familiar with it for now!

topfrog007 said:

4. Oil pan gasket

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To my knowledge there is no oil pan gasket on an ALH..just silicone/RTV. I've done two rear main seals in the past 2 months and followed bently instructions to reinstall oilpan both times.

I did the SBC Daily / 22# SMF on my car. I get no noise at all and a VERY light pedal that engages almost all the way at the top.

I chose SBC for the additional holding power and for a quiet SMF clutch. It delivered.

My only regret is I blew the stock turbo which waiting for my 5-sp swap parts. If I 'd have known I was upgrading my turbo I would have got the Endurance over the Daily for the piece of mind..

A Sachs quiet clutch (PN K 70038-01) won't make any noise at idle in neutral. Neither will the current SBC clutches as they share the quiet disc with the Sachs unit. A G60/VR6 clutch will rattle (or transmit gearbox rattle) at idle in neutral. It may not do it right after install, but after 5K or so it will rattle. The rattle isn't that objectionable to most people however.

slyk said:

To my knowledge there is no oil pan gasket on an ALH..just silicone/RTV. I've done two rear main seals in the past 2 months and followed bently instructions to reinstall oilpan both times.

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Yeah you are right. I have a bad habit of always calling the RTV a "gasket" .

My Valeo VR6 clutch was slightly used, but I still haven't heard any noise while idling. Maybe because there's no engine in my car at the moment...

Ok, after looking into my options and planning to do few, if any mods, I decided to go with a Sachs quiet clutch (PN K 70038-01). Hopefully will be up and going after the weekend. Thanks for the input.

What is the thinking on replacing the main seal? I have had people tell me, "don't mess with it if it's not leaking" others suggest replacing it????

ENG said:

Ok, after looking into my options and planning to do few, if any mods, I decided to go with a Sachs quiet clutch (PN K 70038-01). Hopefully will be up and going after the weekend. Thanks for the input.

What is the thinking on replacing the main seal? I have had people tell me, "don't mess with it if it's not leaking" others suggest replacing it????

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my thinking would be to have one on hand, if the old one is not drooling, leave it in there

I was always under the impression that if your car had 150,000 Miles or more you might as well replace the rear main seal if you have everything else off. It's a pretty cheap part and takes like 5 minutes to replace with transmission already out.

Is there some reason why people have been saying not to replace it?

You run the risk of taking a good non leaking seal and turn it into a leaker.

ENG said:

Ok, after looking into my options and planning to do few, if any mods, I decided to go with a Sachs quiet clutch (PN K 70038-01). Hopefully will be up and going after the weekend. Thanks for the input.

What is the thinking on replacing the main seal? I have had people tell me, "don't mess with it if it's not leaking" others suggest replacing it????

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The sachs "quiet" clutch kit is actually just the sachs tdi clutch kit, came on some of our cars over here including my last tdi. No noise at all to speak of but then I can't really say the VR6 one is that noisy either tbh.

As for that seal, I'd leave it alone, my engine's past that miles and the seal is still fine. I suspect if you try and change it we'll see yet another thread on here about the clutch not working and losing oil lol.

How many miles did you get out of the dmf? And why are you changing it slipping or pending dmf failure? info will help enlighten others with same question. I have the smf clutch sound but harldy react to it just part of the cars normal healthy heartbeat after replacing that vital part.

mittzlepick said:

How many miles did you get out of the dmf? And why are you changing it slipping or pending dmf failure? info will help enlighten others with same question. I have the smf clutch sound but harldy react to it just part of the cars normal healthy heartbeat after replacing that vital part.

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We have around 156K on it now. I decided to go ahead and change it since the noise coming from the bell housing area seems to be consistent with a DMF starting to fail. I didn't have any clutch slippage or anything like that. It seemed to me that I felt a little more vibration in the clutch than usual when I pushed it in all the way. I just didn't want to take a chance on it flying apart and damaging other components. And even if the DMF is OK and something else needs to be fixed I thought I might as well go with a SMF since we have the thing apart.