Used TDI purchase - is worth it anymore?

I love my 2001 New Beetle TDI. I average 45 mpg during my commute to work. I've seen as high as 50 mpg averages, but I'm not that patient. This makes me want another, of course, but my family needs to fit inside somewhat comfortably.

So, a 2006 Jetta TDI will cost me a ridiculous $17K. A Jetta 2.5 with similar mileage and equipment will cost me $11K.

Yes, the TDI is the MPG king, but what about total cost including fuel and payments? That figure is a surprisingly similar $500 for the TDI and the 2.5. The 2.5 I-5 engine does not require timing belt changes, which helps to make up for its torque deficit. ;-)

Just a few days ago I was at the dealership looking at a 2009 TDI wagon. Asking price was a firm $26K and the car had 21K miles. It featured the DSG gearbox, the nice panoramic sunroof, and some very, very poorly repaired bodywork, along with a mild dent on the tailgate. Inside was a similarly equipped 2009 2.5 Sportwagen with fewer miles, spotless exterior and interior, with a $22.3K asking price. YIKES!

Yes, the assumption is that the TDI will be worth more at the end of the ownership cycle, but then you sell and... buy another.

I'll take a brand new one next year, and pocket the tax incentive if still available.

That dealer will LHFAO when the buyer for that car leaves the lot.

Not me - I buy it then drive them until the wheels fall off - I call it my ultimate recycling

Cheaper to maintain / repair a paid for car than to keep buying new every 3-7 years....

Keep the Beetle for your commute, but get something larger to haul the family around.

LOL, wait and see how much that 2.5L's chain will set you back.

oilhammer said:

LOL, wait and see how much that 2.5L's chain will set you back.

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Last t-belt job cost me over $1000. The first one was done at 80K, the second at 140K due to a failed water pump. I'm keeping my fingers crossed with 20K to go, as this water pump is weeping a bit.

With regular oil changes the timing chain should last until I'd trade or sell the car at around 180K. I checked timing chain cost for a VR6 and it came in at $100 for the set. I'd think the 2.5 is similar.


Anyway, I'm not running off to buy a 2.5 Jetta. Just bringing up the double-edged sword that is the high TDI resale value.

LOL... no way you can replace a chain system on a VR6 (or the 2.5L) for $100. LMAO...that is too funny. Add a zero. Then double that.

However, it is too soon to see how the 2.5L holds up, but if past experiences are anything (that VAG cannot make chain drives durable) it won't be pretty.

But yes, most people who buy them new will dump them before it becomes an issue, which seems sad to me to buy a car like that as a disposable item.

FWIW:

Timing chain job on an AFP engine:

Labor (we are $99/hr)

13.5 hrs (manual)
13.1 hrs (automatic)

021-109-503-D upper chain $122.98
021-109-465-B lower chain $122.98
021-109-509-E upper tensioner $16.45
021-109-467 lower tensioner $48.62
071-109-513 guide rail $37.05
021-109-469 guide rail $15.68

Add oil, coolant, sealant, etc.

I do these all the time, that's why all the part numbers and info are handy. Usually by 160k the VR6 is pretty badly worn, and are often throwing CMP/CKP sync error DTCs and rattling around.

that is the reason i just traded my vr6 on a tdi

old rattle chains

I wouldn't by a VW with a 2.5. It doesn't get all that great acceleration and there is no great MPG compensation. I might chance a 2.0T powered GLI. If you want a domestic compact family car I would go with Focus or Fusion, otherwise go for some kind of Toyonda

scooperhsd said:

Not me - I buy it then drive them until the wheels fall off - I call it my ultimate recycling ...

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Slacker! New wheel bearings, new CV joints, new hubs (without compromised threads this time) and away you go for another 250k miles...

My props to Oilhammer. I've read the ENTIRE Passat engine balance shaft chain fiasco. I've also done research on VR6 chain guide issues.

Interestingly I know of VR6 engines with some high miles that are still happily going along. The Passat balance shaft chain is just scary.

Oh yeah, there are certainly some that last longer...highway driving, etc. But a large chunk that do not. And keep in mind, "running but rattling with the MIL on" is a common VR6 condition. We have OBD tests here for licensing, we have to tell VR6 owners all the time that they will need ~$2000 worth of engine repairs to pass the test. Of course, you always get the "Just to turn that stupid light out?!?!?!" but in fact the engine is not running as well as it should be because it is suffering from 15 degrees of cam retard that it should not have .

oilhammer said:

because it is suffering from 15 degrees of cam retard

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"You never go full retard."