I went with a colt stage 2 cam. I changed mine out at 178k miles (I avoided lifter schrapel thank goodness). The aftermarket was a forged billet, harder than chilled cast. At 1200 dollars for lifters, cam and fasteners, it's cheaper than a bunch of car payments! There's good youtube on how to change the camshaft w/o having to open the fuel lines. It took me 6-8 hours of time to change. If you are comfortable using torque wrenches and tightening stretch-to-yield bolts, its not a bad job. I are a engineer and am dangerous with a wrench, but I also know how to listen to instruction (for the most part). I just might perform a timing belt change when due! I considered frank06's cam, which I'm sure works fine. If you choose to go that route, definately go for the chrome plate option. Metalnerd's tools are also a big help. Another problem is the journal bearings wear. Mine didn't, as there was no tin or copper in the used oil analysis prior to the change. Upon inspection of the old journals, this bore true. There was no smearing of bearing metals.
If concerned, Frank06 offers the cut journal bearing option. I believe these were modified to allow better oil flow around the journals (I think-ask the vendor to be sure).
I did a no-no during the change...I added a lucas product - high zinc "break in additive", about 10 oz during the 15 minute break-in. This crap was like honey going in and is made for the thinning effects of alkie-burners (translation-race engines). I don't think I harmed anything as I drained it out straight away after the break in cycle. I haven't smoked a turbo bearing in 1000 miles since, so I think I'm OK (whew). Like I said, I listen to instructions for the most part. Break in oil would have been the better choice.\Cheers.
-I TDI'd in '09