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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > Picture Gallery/Specs of Members' TDIs > Golf TDI Picture Gallery

Golf TDI Picture Gallery Do you have a Golf TDI? If so write a message here describing it and insert a picture if you have one. If you don't have one on the computer, email me and I'll give you my address and I'll scan it for you. If you need web space for it, email me as well. Please make a short yet descriptive title for your vehicle.

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Old February 13th, 2017, 16:52   #16
bbarbulo
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Tried starting the car, no joy. Spent a good bit of the day trying to get fuel to start flowing. After much head banging, followed some of the ideas here forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=281400 and still got nowhere. Fvcking car is like a unicycle, it only works if everything is in perfect harmony. Oh, have a leaky o ring at the thermostatic tee? No problem, just tow it to the dealership. Robustness eludes VW. At this point, I don't know what prevents the car from starting. If I knew I had fuel, perhaps I could move on and check other things like injection timing or asv operation, or whatever else can prevent starting. One odd thing I found is I do not have 12v to the fuel shutoff with the key in the ON position. More troublingly, I fill the overflow tank and the coolant goes nowhere. I would think it would go fill the head which is bone dry right now. But the level hasn't moved a bit. Oh well, try to start it first, then worry about the other oddities.

This car is believed to have run, save for the whole valve smashing event. I purposely didn't upgrade to the 11mm pump so as to have the fewest possible 'variables' when trying to start it. Obv it hasn't paid dividends.
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Old February 13th, 2017, 16:57   #17
bbarbulo
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I should mention I have fuel at the filter. I can pull fuel through the clear line to the IP. I removed the fuel shutoff and tried to pull vacuum there, but to be honest I had concerns about contaminating the pump. I tried it, it wasn't going, I moved on. I figured I might need more volume of suction than my mightyvac can provide, so I hooked up the shop vac to the return line. I got flow after I started trying to pull the tee out of the filter. I quickly tried to crank the car over, but the battery was pretty weak from mucho cranking. So I put the battery on charge for the night and came here to whine about it all
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Old February 13th, 2017, 17:13   #18
bbarbulo
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Still, the lack of 12v to the shutoff is a concern. I don't have a helper to crank while I check voltage there, but if it was conditional, I suspect as soon as you stop cranking, the car would die. So you have to have 12v there constantly. I unplugged the IP connector and tested the Ws/Sw wire (what the hell is ws/sw wire you ask?? - apparently it's black/white. I wonder how people would feel if Kia and Hyundai wiring diagrams were provided in Korean and Honda, Toyota, Subaru, Nissan, and Mazda in Japanese). Anyways, the black white wire on the injection pump harness also didn't have the 12v. I traced it back and was delighted that it went into the cable tray. I thought... Briefly... 'oh here is something they did right, ill just pop off the cable tray cover and be greeted with easily testable wiring.' Nope, three bundles of taped up wiring. So I was going to probe at the ECU to see if I have the 12v there, but remember? The wipers on this car have the nuts broken right off the linkage and the wipers are staying on via extreme powers of being seized on there. Lol... So access to ecu, DENIED.

I figured, ok maybe a fuse is blown somewhere. Remember, this car presumably ran at some point. So the thought that the timing belt jumped and at the same time the fuel shutoff wire was severed somehow... Seems improbable. I checked the fuses, all good. There was one missing... #14 iirc? Big one, has a ridiculous symbol associated with it on the fuse pictogram. But looking inside, I see a line pin, but no load pin so I think maybe not in use anyways.
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Old February 13th, 2017, 19:34   #19
FlexYJeeper
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you know, i almost bought a non running mkiv, after these last updates i'm really glad i didnt! when ever i was having problems i couldnt figure out my dad would tell me to check my grounds. and more times then not he was right. grounds will **** you up.
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Old February 13th, 2017, 20:06   #20
bbarbulo
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hahaha no, buying scrap isn't for the faint of heart. I've bought many cars requiring huge help and each time I try to top myself to keep it interesting. who wants to be doing brakes and endlinks all the time anyways? before this i rebuilt the transmission on a 2000 odyssey. i had never done a transmission before, and i adore hondas so it was a no brainer... it all went well, car is a sweetheart. i've done 4 head-off repairs previously, so i wasn't worried about that. the last head-off repair was a 97 saturn with spun rod bearings; pulled the pan, pulled the head, popped the pistons out, replaced the bearings, polished the crank, threw it back together and drove it for 2 years, then sold it.

reality is, the greater the challenge, the greater the feeling when it fires up. And the folks here have been tremendous help, there are some really great people on this forum that have left breadcrumbs of information behind. one just has to be willing to follow their wisdom. I'm not worried about it yet, I'll start at the fuel filter T, look at the orings, get a can of diesel and manually fill my IP, then try again to prime it and bleed my lines. Then I'll jumper out the shutoff valve if necessary. It will run...
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Old February 13th, 2017, 20:12   #21
bbarbulo
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also, never mind buying a non-running car for just the non-running aspect of it. there is so much more that can be wrong. for all i know, this car might have no a/c, no heat, I know it has no ebrake and the rear calipers are seized, the suspension might be shot, the power steering pump might be shot, i noticed the left axle boot is torn.... it could have a hundred other issues besides the reason it doesn't run. so no, buying a non-running car for anything other than parts is just a bad idea overall. like I said, i do it for the challenge. it might just be a parts car anyways after all this, but that would certainly be my failure; and i like to think i'm better than that. i will not be broken by a vw.
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Old February 13th, 2017, 23:15   #22
bbarbulo
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there was one pic worth getting in all this

the car came to me without an airbox, maf, and all that good stuff. so I sourced the right OEM parts. now, i recall there being a line that plugs in under the flex hose, just behind the MAF plug. So I located the nipple, then I was looking around for the associated hose on the car side... I knew it had to be somewhere, it supplies clean filtered air for stuff to vent... I assume things like vacuum operated solenoids so you don't contaminate the diaphragms or the valves that actuate them. I did find it!





it was shoved behind the master cylinder and running down toward the frame rail. take notes folks, really important to keep MOSQUITOES out of your diaphragms!!! yes, that's mosquito netting ziptied on there. Well, better than nothing i suppose. I snipped it off and put it on the airbox where it should go.
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Old February 13th, 2017, 23:20   #23
bbarbulo
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And here is dad's rockin ride for inspiration... my sig is outdated, but it's the car in my sig

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Old February 14th, 2017, 21:08   #24
bbarbulo
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Had the car running today. Shut er down cuz I didn't see coolant being pulled in from the expansion tank. Will investigate tomorrow.
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Old February 14th, 2017, 21:39   #25
FlexYJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbarbulo View Post
Had the car running today. Shut er down cuz I didn't see coolant being pulled in from the expansion tank. Will investigate tomorrow.
thats exciting! glad to hear it started up!
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Old February 14th, 2017, 22:35   #26
bbarbulo
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I was quite happy to hear it fire up too. Will pull vacuum on the overflow return and see if I can draw coolant into the head and egr cooler. I thought maybe the expansion tank was plugged so I removed it, it wasn't plugged. Not sure what's going on there. The fuel shutoff was jumpered out. Didn't get to pull the jumper to see if it stays running. As soon as I saw coolant wasn't being pulled in, I shut it down. Will study the wiring diagrams tonight to see how to go about troubleshooting it.
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Last edited by bbarbulo; February 14th, 2017 at 22:39.
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Old February 15th, 2017, 00:18   #27
bbarbulo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlexYJeeper View Post
when ever i was having problems i couldnt figure out my dad would tell me to check my grounds. and more times then not he was right. grounds will **** you up.
you are absolutely correct, bad grounds can cause all types of mayhem. in my 83 grand prix, the clock was running slow (has like a mechanical quartz clock with needles and everything), had some odd sensor readings for oil pressure and temperature... it had a bad ground which was the main cause of the clock running slow. now it keeps time like big ben

In this case, the solenoid is using the IP body as ground, which in turn uses the block as ground. But I'm checking for voltage against a battery ground, so I eliminate the possibility of a poor ground. yes, the ECU may still have a bad ground and that could cause strange issues too... I dunno. I forgot to grab my VAGCOM laptop, but I should vagcom it and see what the ECU is saying about all this. I'm piss poor at using VAGCOM, but I stumble my way through it.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, the signal comes direct from the ECU pin T121/120. And the ECU is fed power via F10 and F29 to pins T121/88 and T121/37, while the ECU ground is pins T121/4 and T121/5 at earth location E5. But that will have to wait for me to go buy a wiper arm puller tool before I can get access to the ECU.
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Old February 16th, 2017, 00:00   #28
bbarbulo
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Today I got all the charge plumbing buttoned up nice and tight, filled the P/S fluid up, put the serp belt on (lol - note to self, tell the serp belt story...), reinstalled the TB cover. I know, a little premature - I still have to verify and perhaps adjust the IP timing with vag com. But let me tell you, this is the first time the engine bay has looked 'complete' since I first saw the car, and it feels nice (even with the distinct absence of an engine cover).

I spent most of the day running around trying to find correct fluid (not as easy as if I felt like going to Detroit), but I found some stuff called OEM brand fluid at PartSource. It is made by recochem, the same company that makes many 'name brand' products including Prestone and Rain-X (and yes... ArmorAll too, but hey, they can't all be winners ).

My local NAPA wanted $57 per liter for CHF11S and $44 per liter for CHF202. And that's a *wink wink* price too!!! I mean 'discounted'.... I nearly fell out of my chair (I wasn't sitting at the time). The dealer wanted $40 flat per liter (or more likely 943 mL).

PartSource was $24 per liter (still not cheap), but better alternative than $19USD at Oreilly's plus 30% exchange and $12 in bridge tolls. The stuff is made for CHF11S/CHF202 and CHF7.1 compatibility, conforms to VW/Audi/Porsche/Volvo/Saab/M-B/ and any other model that takes any of the CHF(s) above. It looks like Simple Green concentrate basically.

Then I went to Princess Auto and picked up a windshield arm puller. Yes, in 36 years, I've never needed a wiper arm puller. But apparently now I do. Well, it hasn't budged. I tried the replacement set... a week of PB Blaster, wiper arm puller... then a little torch action (not oxy-acetylene yet, just tried a little propane), more puller action... no luck. I worry, cuz if the torch is the way to go, how am I gonna do it on the car with the cowl plastic in the way?? not looking forward to it.

any tips (if anyone is even reading my drivel?)?

oh, the serp belt story.

first time I did an ALH timing belt... so what, like 2002~ish? by that point, the sticky foil sticker had flown off the plastic header panel. I was mad as a hen, but the dealer didn't seem to give a rats ass about replacing the sticker under warranty. I had forgotten even what that sticker was. that is until I was finishing up the TB job for the first time. I went to go see the serp belt routing... on THAT sticker!!! effing hell. so at this point, I'm 21ish... have some years of wrenching under my belt, how hard can it be for a clever boy to figure out the serp belt routing?? Only so many ways to hit all the smooth and grooved pulleys. Yeah apparently like 2 hours worth of routing. I actually don't remember how I ended up figuring it out. But let me tell you, even some 15 years later, I can route that belt with eyes closed - it is burned in my memory. Good thing, since this car is also missing the same serp belt routing sticker (and the belt was already off when the car came to me).
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Old February 16th, 2017, 00:06   #29
bbarbulo
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i've been slacking on pics, but there isn't much to see. filthy engine bay.

but here is an action shot from yesterday - engine running.



I forgot to say, I think I was wrong about the coolant situation. Today I used a little mighty-vac to pressurize the tank and force coolant into the head, and pretty much immediately coolant was coming out of the overflow return, which is part of that whole system. And I kinda reviewed what I started with... a full 4L distilled water and a 1.5L Pentosin SF, the Pentosin is gone and so is half the 4L bottle of water. So I'm 3.5L deep in coolant, so that would be about the volume from having the head and EGR cooler drained I suppose. I may have overthought the whole coolant thing. Next time I'll let the car run and warm up, set my injection timing graph, etc...
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Old February 16th, 2017, 23:56   #30
bbarbulo
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like a-so, make the adjustment. I was pretty bang on without adjustment, it was around 86ish... just north of the green line. but i wanted it just a shade over the blue line.



that'll work. try it there and see how it starts cold, drives, fuel economy, etc...



.... ummm great... ya real sweet .... where is the middle finger smiley when you need it haha

at least my work was on point. car is smooth, warmed up nicely, settled into a real nice purr - sounded good. can't wait to drive it a bit, see how it feels. no leaks or anything so i'm pleased with that.


and the airbag light is on apparently, so now I have to dig out the airbag control module to see what the part number is so I don't cook it by scanning it with VAGCOM. I think next time I want a challenge, maybe I'll check eBay and see if the nuclear reactor from Chernobyl is up for grabs.
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