replacing intake manifold parts requirements.
- Thread starter borntofli
- Start date
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
OK, many things about this job.
FIRST AND FORMOST.
Don’t do anything to it unless you are prepared to either spend 8 hours trying to clean the head while it’s on (very specific way to do this)
OR you pull the head.
Problem is many people that do what your about to do end up with a damaged or blown engine and or turbo. Chunks of that crap bust off and fly into the engine now that you have a clear intake. Do a search here, it’s not good what happens when it does, and it 95% chance, it will to your engine.
Now with that said parts you need.
Intake gasket,
Stripped bolt extractors, they look like sockets, a proper hex tool for the bolts (forget if it’s a t40 or what?)
Get a full set of extra bolts, these strip the heads easily and you can’t have too many y of those bolts as spares, there cheap.
Adapter pipe (if using a PD150 or PD130 intake) If stock intake than your fine on this note.
Before you try this, test the EGR for leaks, hook up a bike tire pump to it and go to like 5PSI and spray it with soapy water, don’t go past 15 PSI or you risk ripping the EGR diaphragm. It does work off the PSI but yours probably is old and not working well. Test it before you start taking things off and what not.
Highly recommend a PD150 intake with an EGR; they are changeable unlike the AHU intakes where it’s built in.
Now on to the head, you can use some make shift tools from plastic picnic cutlery handles melted into a pick or scraper, a tooth brush, an air compressor or shop vac, a few cans of brake clean, soot remover, degreaser, a small hand held mirror, flat head screwdriver, some pipe cleaners etc.
Take the valve cover off and rotate the engine by the crank bolt ONLY or by the starter motor. (DO NOT USE A WRENCH ON THE CAM OR ITS BOLT)
Rotate the cam till all the cam lobes are not on any of the intake valve lifters. Now put the cover back on.
Put a small hose onto the shop vac or use an air compressor to blow out what you’re going to clean up. Use various picks and what not to scrape all that crap loos. Spray some solvent in there and suck it all back out. Or blow it out with compressed air. (Compressed air makes more of a mess)
You’re not going to be able to get the swirl portion of the runner but you can get 85% of it and all the parts that would damage the engine. You can soak the runners in soot remover and other various preferred solvents to help get this area cleaned, if you do let it soak, change your oil before you start the engine. Some can leak part the valve and into the crank case. If you do add any solvents in there without emidiatly suck them up with a shop vac, drain the oil and pull the glow plugs do you don’t risk hydro locking the engine. When you don’t, crank it over a few times with the plugs out. Pull the 109 relay so it won’t start.
Now ass new oil and put it all back together. This is how I did mine. Took 8 hours.
IMHO LEAVE IT ALONE and do nothing. You probably won’t see much of an improvement if any. Unless you have performance stuff going on.
You won’t have to do this ever again; new fuels don’t have this issue anymore.
FIRST AND FORMOST.
Don’t do anything to it unless you are prepared to either spend 8 hours trying to clean the head while it’s on (very specific way to do this)
OR you pull the head.
Problem is many people that do what your about to do end up with a damaged or blown engine and or turbo. Chunks of that crap bust off and fly into the engine now that you have a clear intake. Do a search here, it’s not good what happens when it does, and it 95% chance, it will to your engine.
Now with that said parts you need.
Intake gasket,
Stripped bolt extractors, they look like sockets, a proper hex tool for the bolts (forget if it’s a t40 or what?)
Get a full set of extra bolts, these strip the heads easily and you can’t have too many y of those bolts as spares, there cheap.
Adapter pipe (if using a PD150 or PD130 intake) If stock intake than your fine on this note.
Before you try this, test the EGR for leaks, hook up a bike tire pump to it and go to like 5PSI and spray it with soapy water, don’t go past 15 PSI or you risk ripping the EGR diaphragm. It does work off the PSI but yours probably is old and not working well. Test it before you start taking things off and what not.
Highly recommend a PD150 intake with an EGR; they are changeable unlike the AHU intakes where it’s built in.
Now on to the head, you can use some make shift tools from plastic picnic cutlery handles melted into a pick or scraper, a tooth brush, an air compressor or shop vac, a few cans of brake clean, soot remover, degreaser, a small hand held mirror, flat head screwdriver, some pipe cleaners etc.
Take the valve cover off and rotate the engine by the crank bolt ONLY or by the starter motor. (DO NOT USE A WRENCH ON THE CAM OR ITS BOLT)
Rotate the cam till all the cam lobes are not on any of the intake valve lifters. Now put the cover back on.
Put a small hose onto the shop vac or use an air compressor to blow out what you’re going to clean up. Use various picks and what not to scrape all that crap loos. Spray some solvent in there and suck it all back out. Or blow it out with compressed air. (Compressed air makes more of a mess)
You’re not going to be able to get the swirl portion of the runner but you can get 85% of it and all the parts that would damage the engine. You can soak the runners in soot remover and other various preferred solvents to help get this area cleaned, if you do let it soak, change your oil before you start the engine. Some can leak part the valve and into the crank case. If you do add any solvents in there without emidiatly suck them up with a shop vac, drain the oil and pull the glow plugs do you don’t risk hydro locking the engine. When you don’t, crank it over a few times with the plugs out. Pull the 109 relay so it won’t start.
Now ass new oil and put it all back together. This is how I did mine. Took 8 hours.
IMHO LEAVE IT ALONE and do nothing. You probably won’t see much of an improvement if any. Unless you have performance stuff going on.
You won’t have to do this ever again; new fuels don’t have this issue anymore.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
New gasket, reuse the old bolts. I'm not sure you need a new gasket for the EGR pipe connection or not but you could reuse the old one with a little gasket shellac if necessary.
The biggest problem will be fumbling around blind behind there but if you have an assortment of allen bits, extensions and maybe a swivel you should be ok. Make sure the allen bit is seated in the bolt completely otherwise you might round out the bolt head.
I would spend a little time with a shop vac and brush cleaning at the intake ports in the head before installing the clean manifold, get as much as you can out of there before reinstalling.
Steve
The biggest problem will be fumbling around blind behind there but if you have an assortment of allen bits, extensions and maybe a swivel you should be ok. Make sure the allen bit is seated in the bolt completely otherwise you might round out the bolt head.
I would spend a little time with a shop vac and brush cleaning at the intake ports in the head before installing the clean manifold, get as much as you can out of there before reinstalling.
Steve
Well, buy the sounds of it, I should wait till I inspect my turbo operation..I may need work there too, since its apart. do everything....
I may have to wait a couple paychecks to make sure i can get everything...
car runs good now that I replaced vacuum lines..
I sure appreciate the help on this forum..... thank you guys....
I may have to wait a couple paychecks to make sure i can get everything...
car runs good now that I replaced vacuum lines..
I sure appreciate the help on this forum..... thank you guys....