1992 isuzu to diesel TDI swap

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Glad that's going to work for you.
Everguy1, Motohead1 , Matt and all the others, Thanks for all the help..... The clutch I removed did not hold up well. I think I had 20,000 miles on it. I prefer high quality. I don't win when I go cheap. I found a couple that appear to match this kit and appear to be higher quality but just don't have enough knowledge to know what is the best. One thing I learned about doing this swap, many of these parts stores sell cheap parts. Its been a challenge. For the longest time the engine would turn several revolutions before starting. The Vagcom showed it just wasn't turning enough revolutions. When I installed the adapter I accidentally dropped the starter and cracked the solenoid. I took it to the local starter shop. They tested it and said it was fine. Still long starts. Finally after months of testing took it off sent it back to the starter place and said don't send it back unless it is fixed. They replace the solenoid. Now start most of the time on one revolution... After resolving start issue, the housing on the original transmission had very fine crack and leaked oil. I replaced with reman transmission but did not replace the throw out bearing. It was noisy. Everyone said I had a bad input shaft. While getting it inspected, the shop owner asked me how do I depress in the clutch. According to him way too hard. I told him to fix it. Afterwards no noise and clutch was very easy to depress and after 3 weeks it sound like throw out bearing was bad. After receiving the new pilot bushing, either the original pilot bush was worn down or the mechanic left it out. Should of fixed it myself. Anyhow, I love the truck. Great fuel mileage and lots of power!
 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
There is a place called south bend clutches. They took my stock spec valeo 1.8t clutch and gave it an "endurance" treatment to hold the 300 some odd ft lbs of torque my BHW puts out around 2000 rpms on a 228 mm clutch. Ran about 275 for the work on the new clutch and would include the turning of the flywheel if it wasnt new. My flywheel and clutch kit fit nicely in a flat rate box.

Something to keep in mind if you find your clutch slipping after another 20k
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Thanks PickleRick! I wished I had this info before sat. I purchased a LUK which what I had previously. Slipping wasn't the issue just the throw-out bearing. The original transmission was fine but had an oil leak in the housing(crack). I purchased a new one from AutoZone. I installed but didn't replace the throw-out bearing since it didn't have many miles on it. Afterwards abnormal noise and from all the research it appeared to be input shaft bearing. I had it inspected they noticed the noise and how hard it was to depress the clutch. They removed and found Input shaft was fine just bad throw-out bearing and fork. On the original install, I did not replace the fork. I drove it for three weeks and one morning depressed the clutch which made a shrill noise. I removed and notice the new fork they replaced was missing the little nylon bushing lock that keeps it in place. The retainer bearing appeared to have some wear and the throw bearing was shot. I think they installed a the s-10 pilot bearing which is too small that comes with an S10. A PB656 bronze bushing is the required bushing for the adapter. Also there were some cracks in the disc. I should repaired it my self. All the miles on the truck are road miles. No off road driving and I don't abuse it. Again thank!

 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
My 2005 passat doesn't get much off road use either lol.



I hate when a tob or pilot bearing fail shortly after having a tranny out. It's a sick feeling knowing it was just right in reach.
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Finally got the correct clutch kit. I have the GM OEM throw out bearing. I've installed the pressure plate and disc. In the process of installing the fork and throw out bearing. I noticed the throw out bearing appears to be loose. If I hold it downward it will just fall off. This fork is new. It was installed by the mechanic who basically did a crappy job about month ago. Not sure it is high quality. The videos I have watched, the throwout bearing appears to be tight.
Here is a video...Fork
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
I got it all put back together. Re-bled line the to ensure no air in line. Pedal not hard but smooth however I can't get into reverse. Makes grinding noise. The only way to get it into reverse is to shut it off, place in reverse and restart. Nothing has changed other than a new kit. Same master and slave. I can put it in first, start engine and it tries to move just a little - a slight rock. However, to get it to move off, I have to depress the clutch about half way before pulling off. What could be wrong. I almost 100% certain I placed the the flat of the disc to the flywheel. Another thing I noticed, it shakes..... I jacked up rear and had someone try to place in reverse while I place a screw driver behind fork and pressed to rear of transmission as far as it would go and still would not go into reverse.
 
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PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Sounds like the clutch isn't dis engaging. Hopefully still has air in the line.


Sadly it sounds like a throw issue. For years the land crusier guys modified stock chevy clutch kits to prevent this exact issue. Some chevy clutch kits have the pressure plate forks that protrude from the flywheel side out towards the transmission. This style needs a good deal of throw that the Toyota slave/master couldn't provide.

The checker cab clutch kit fits the chevy inline 6 and was a mechanical clutch if i remember correctly. The pressure plate fingers are parallel with the flywheel and required very little throw. Fit your standard 10 inch chevy flywheel. The clutch disk had the standard chevy(and Toyota) course spline which iirc was a 10 spline. Been years since I counted them but i still have the clutch alignment tools somewhere in the garage.

The checker cab clutches needed no modification to give proper clearance for smooth shifting. I had no slippage issues on a 4.9 isuzu turbo diesel but the VW revs much more quickly. My cruisers weighed some 4500 lbs or more with the 700 plus lbs motor, solid axles and my smallest tire combo was 31x10.5s and i eventually went to 33x12.5s.

I towed up to about a 7000 lbs boat.

Used same set up with a 305 Chevy v8 for a while.
 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
It worked previously as far gear changing. I measured the pivot ball. Look at the pictures and disc appears to be correct (flat against flywheel.


 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
what do the fingers of the pressure plate look like?
They look fine. I'm thinking about removing the pressure plate and disc and replacing with the prior one. The gears changed fine and no issues in reverse. I'm thinking maybe this is a bad pressure plate or disc.

 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Took a while but the Sachs K5473-01 is what I used matched to a 153 tooth chevy flywheel.

If you google the pics you'll see how that part number Sachs requires less throw to disengage. The fingers are much closer to the clutch disk.

My cruisers usually had adjustable slave cylinders. I searched all year cruisers and found which years came stock with the most throw (deepest bore). Same with master cylinders although due to toyota costs my last swap ended up with a willwood master cylinder paired up a mcclode push or pull universal slave cylinder from jegs or summit.

Does your slave actuating arm or master actuating arm have any adjustments to give you more throw?

Also was the last clutch binding between gears or having a hard time putting into 1st or reverse?
 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Took a while but the Sachs K5473-01 is what I used matched to a 153 tooth chevy flywheel.

If you google the pics you'll see how that part number Sachs requires less throw to disengage. The fingers are much closer to the clutch disk.

My cruisers usually had adjustable slave cylinders. I searched all year cruisers and found which years came stock with the most throw (deepest bore). Same with master cylinders although due to toyota costs my last swap ended up with a willwood master cylinder paired up a mcclode push or pull universal slave cylinder from jegs or summit.

Does your slave actuating arm or master actuating arm have any adjustments to give you more throw?

Also was the last clutch binding between gears or having a hard time putting into 1st or reverse?
I no issues what so ever with gears changing with previous clutch. Only TO issues. No adjustment on slave. That is relative new slave.
 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
I jacked up the rear end and had some depress the clutch while running and using long screw screwdriver pressed the clutch fork as far back as possible and it would not release. That is why I don't believe it is air in ine issue. I think the slave is working. The clutch is feels real solid. Same as before. Maybe this clutch kit is just harder to depress. Maybe the disc is warped. I put a lot of pressure on the fork and could only get it to move maybe 1 inch further than the slave had.

 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Yeah the Sachs K5473-01 fingers are defintely closer to the disk. I going to reinstall the previous clutch assembly for testing purposes. If it disengages them I know I have a bad kit. Also, I contacted the other vendor you recommended and waiting on reply. I hoping the something is wrong with the pressure plate disc. At least I will have some answers. Them I will return and either purchase the Sachs or one from south bend.
 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Took a while but the Sachs K5473-01 is what I used matched to a 153 tooth chevy flywheel.

If you google the pics you'll see how that part number Sachs requires less throw to disengage. The fingers are much closer to the clutch disk.

My cruisers usually had adjustable slave cylinders. I searched all year cruisers and found which years came stock with the most throw (deepest bore). Same with master cylinders although due to toyota costs my last swap ended up with a willwood master cylinder paired up a mcclode push or pull universal slave cylinder from jegs or summit.

Does your slave actuating arm or master actuating arm have any adjustments to give you more throw?

Also was the last clutch binding between gears or having a hard time putting into 1st or reverse?
will the Sachs K5473-01 will fit my 10 inch flywheel. The spees say outer diameter 11inch
 
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PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
It will fit a 153 tooth chevy flywheel if that's what you're using.

Are you using a pre 1985 Chevy flywheel?

Just a thought, the s10 came with a 4.3 5 speed option. The small 4cyl used a t 4 or t5 but the later 90s years used an nv3500 matched to the 4.3. I'm betting that factory nv3500/4.3 with 153 tooth flywheel clutch master and slave kit would be a bolt on in your cab thus giving you proper throw. Dorman and other suppliers sell the clutch master/slave kits.

That is assuming its a diffent part number than what the 4 cyl t4/t5 s10s used. Making sure your clutch fork matches the transmission is equally important.


Usually the orileys web look up will give you bore size of the master and slave cylinders so you can also compare part numbers.

This again is assuming you are using a sbc adapter on the back of your tdi engine. I cannot remember what adapter kit you used.

I'm watching the presidential debate and am required to take a shot each they interrupt each other....im now passing out. I feel like im watching an oil debate thread on a vw forum on live TV.
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
It will fit a 153 tooth chevy flywheel if that's what you're using.

Are you using a pre 1985 Chevy flywheel?

Just a thought, the s10 came with a 4.3 5 speed option. The small 4cyl used a t 4 or t5 but the later 90s years used an nv3500 matched to the 4.3. I'm betting that factory nv3500/4.3 with 153 tooth flywheel clutch master and slave kit would be a bolt on in your cab thus giving you proper throw. Dorman and other suppliers sell the clutch master/slave kits.

That is assuming its a diffent part number than what the 4 cyl t4/t5 s10s used. Making sure your clutch fork matches the transmission is equally important.


Usually the orileys web look up will give you bore size of the master and slave cylinders so you can also compare part numbers.

This again is assuming you are using a sbc adapter on the back of your tdi engine. I cannot remember what adapter kit you used.

I'm watching the presidential debate and am required to take a shot each they interrupt each other....im now passing out. I feel like im watching an oil debate thread on a vw forum on live TV.
 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
And is your clutch master/slave original or direct replacments for your isuzu truck or did you replace them with the master/slave out of the same 4.3/nv3500 s10? If they have not been this would be my first move. I'm thinking the clutch master will bolt into your fire wall with no issues.
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
They are the same as the 1995 S10 4.3 v6. Not sure about the fork. It is new but the shop who completed the work a month ago purchased the new fork. However, other than TO issue, the gears changed fine. No reverse issues. When I originally installed the transmission I did have issue with it grinding but it was the slave. I added an additional 1/4 inch to the slave and it solved the issue. A couple months ago, I installed a new slave and it did not require me to extend the rod. After clutch kit install this time, I thought it was the slave but performed the same process I did on the original install by placing a screw driver in the view port where the fork connects to the slave rod and forced it to the rear as far as it would go. It still would not release. Previously it did and that is how I determined it was a slave issue.
 
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PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Just to be sure, the 95 s10 did come paired with the 3500 and not the t5?
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Finally located the issue with my transmission. Adapter plate was loose. In fact, the holes had wallowed out and I had to order another plate. It appears Randy no longer owns the business and was sold to a fab business. I ordered the new plate 1, 2 and no hub. I had a machinist repair the hub, it had wallowed also. My original plate had two starter holes but the new plate has one. As I was installing the tranny I noticed the dowel pin was missing from the plate. I tried installing the dowel from the older plate but the dowel that fits the plate was to small. I contacted the company he said I needed part Pioneer Dowel Pin part number PG653. Anywhere local I can purchase this? Shouldn't the dowel come with the plate?
 
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superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
The original adapter plate came from Randy -TD Conversion which is now owned by Northwest Fabworks. Motohead says NAPA has the dowel.... The hole for the dowel is located in the upper right corner of the bell housing.
 

evguy1

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Location
Erington, BC, Canada
TDI
2000 Jeep Cherokee TDI, 2008 Jeep JKU TDI
The original adapter plate came from Randy -TD Conversion which is now owned by Northwest Fabworks. Motohead says NAPA has the dowel.... The hole for the dowel is located in the upper right corner of the bell housing.
North West Fab was who did my machining for the last few years and when I wanted to retire they were the best choice to just carry on doing the work and take over sales. They also build off road gear boxes and other cool stuff. The Chevy adapter should have dowels located just up from crank center line on both sides. The new style adapter that you received uses stock Chevy dowels so most auto parts stores should have them.
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
I don't install transmission for a living so this may be a stupid question. On the original adapter plate, only one dowel located in the upper left side at the top. You would think there would be two if the goal is to keep the tranny in the center? Like one on the left and one on the right?.... I like the new plate designed with holes tapped at the top. Much easier to install and uninstall. Not started yet. I want to make sure I'm 100 percent correct before I drive it.
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
After researching, the NV3500 transmission should have two dowel pins for alignment
 

superhl

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Location
27534
TDI
2002 new beetle
Installing exhaust pipe but not enough clearance to get the bottom bolt installed. Starter is very close to turbo. Any suggestions?


 
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