MOGolf
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2001
- Location
- underneath something
- TDI
- 2001 Golf GLS TDI Reflex silver, rough road suspension and steel skid plate, 2004 Passat Variant, Candy White, rough road suspension and geared balanced shaft module, and much, much more. 2016 LR RR HSE TD6, 2019 Jaguar I-PACE
After over 900 miles of driving, with the ECM EGR setting at factory value (32768), I've tested this. No weeping so far. I can't guaranty that it will last 100,000 miles but in the interest of getting this information to you before that test completes, I'm posting it a wee bit early.
I disassembled my weepy EGR valve that blew oil onto my valve cover.
By carefully prying around the edge of the "cap" I removed it and the spring. Further disassembly is not required. Note that I removed the fragile vacuum actuator so it didn't get broken during this cap r/r procedure (see below for how to do that). Tools required: vise to hold the assembly, sturdy screwdriver, sturdy punch (side used as a fulcrum at times).
Once the cap is off, I used brake parts cleaner to clean out traces of oil and soot from along the shaft of the valve (not pictured). Just spray a little on shaft area and work the valve until clean. Let dry.
Next I propped the diaphram away from the body of the assembly, held in the vise so the shaft was vertical. Then I applied Permatex Flowable Silicone sealant around the shaft/body junction under the diaphram.
Let it set up for a day. Then worked the valve manually to make sure it moved.
Next I inverted the assembly and applied the sealant around the shaft inside the intake passage and let it set up for a day. (Package says fully cured in 24 hours.) After the day I manually worked the valve to make sure it moved.
Clamped the assembly in the vise with spring in and cap on and used a hand vacuum to ensure the valve would move when vacuum is applied. Then using a punch and hammer I cinched the cap back onto the body.
Put the vacuum actuator back on and put the valve back in the car. So far no oil and no EGR fault codes.
In case you're wondering, the temperature range of the sealant is -85F to +450F. That is good enough for this application.
Removal of vacuum actuator
Once you have the assembly out of the car, the best way to remove the actuator without breaking it is...
1) clamp assembly gently in a vise so you have free hand(s) to work with
2) remove the screws holding the actuator to the body
3) gently pry the arm off the anti-shudder valve shaft, applying pressure where the two connect, and in a direction so that the tip of the shaft will pass through the "slot" along the arm.
Do not try to pull the arm straight off the shaft, nor push it straight on during reassembly.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
I disassembled my weepy EGR valve that blew oil onto my valve cover.
By carefully prying around the edge of the "cap" I removed it and the spring. Further disassembly is not required. Note that I removed the fragile vacuum actuator so it didn't get broken during this cap r/r procedure (see below for how to do that). Tools required: vise to hold the assembly, sturdy screwdriver, sturdy punch (side used as a fulcrum at times).
Once the cap is off, I used brake parts cleaner to clean out traces of oil and soot from along the shaft of the valve (not pictured). Just spray a little on shaft area and work the valve until clean. Let dry.
Next I propped the diaphram away from the body of the assembly, held in the vise so the shaft was vertical. Then I applied Permatex Flowable Silicone sealant around the shaft/body junction under the diaphram.
Let it set up for a day. Then worked the valve manually to make sure it moved.
Next I inverted the assembly and applied the sealant around the shaft inside the intake passage and let it set up for a day. (Package says fully cured in 24 hours.) After the day I manually worked the valve to make sure it moved.
Clamped the assembly in the vise with spring in and cap on and used a hand vacuum to ensure the valve would move when vacuum is applied. Then using a punch and hammer I cinched the cap back onto the body.
Put the vacuum actuator back on and put the valve back in the car. So far no oil and no EGR fault codes.
In case you're wondering, the temperature range of the sealant is -85F to +450F. That is good enough for this application.
Removal of vacuum actuator
Once you have the assembly out of the car, the best way to remove the actuator without breaking it is...
1) clamp assembly gently in a vise so you have free hand(s) to work with
2) remove the screws holding the actuator to the body
3) gently pry the arm off the anti-shudder valve shaft, applying pressure where the two connect, and in a direction so that the tip of the shaft will pass through the "slot" along the arm.
Do not try to pull the arm straight off the shaft, nor push it straight on during reassembly.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
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