IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Alignment specs look good. The negative camber is a result of lowering the car, but will help turn-in and grip. Just drive it hard to keep tire wear even.
rocketeer928 - My 2003 VW Jetta TDI
- Thread starter rocketeer928
- Start date
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Installed 11-mm IP and New Thermostat
Last week I installed an 11-mm injection pump and a new thermostat. I'll be writing up a "How-To" called:
How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
The new t-stat brought my running temperature from 168 - 172°F to 188 - 194°F.
Last week I installed an 11-mm injection pump and a new thermostat. I'll be writing up a "How-To" called:
How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
The new t-stat brought my running temperature from 168 - 172°F to 188 - 194°F.
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Helped n8ronJ
While visiting my folks in western NY, on Saturday I helped n8ronJ install my leftover Dieselgeek race pipe and PP520 nozzles. We also installed the DG EGR cooler delete and a clean ALH intake manifold. It was a great day of fellowship and wrenching, and the smile on n8ronJ's face was big and priceless.
During the afternoon, I took n8ronJ on a ride in my car. Let's just say, I warned his wife that the family finances might be in a little trouble.
I was kidding, of course. But, he does need to get his car tuned with RocketChip to take full advantage of his new-to-him PP520s.
Edit on 16 June 2010: Here are pictures of n8ronJ (nickname: n8) with his dog and me with our platinum gray 2003 Jetta TDIs after finishing the work on his car and a fun test drive.
Man - get a RC tune already!!!
While visiting my folks in western NY, on Saturday I helped n8ronJ install my leftover Dieselgeek race pipe and PP520 nozzles. We also installed the DG EGR cooler delete and a clean ALH intake manifold. It was a great day of fellowship and wrenching, and the smile on n8ronJ's face was big and priceless.
During the afternoon, I took n8ronJ on a ride in my car. Let's just say, I warned his wife that the family finances might be in a little trouble.
I was kidding, of course. But, he does need to get his car tuned with RocketChip to take full advantage of his new-to-him PP520s.Edit on 16 June 2010: Here are pictures of n8ronJ (nickname: n8) with his dog and me with our platinum gray 2003 Jetta TDIs after finishing the work on his car and a fun test drive.
Man - get a RC tune already!!!
Last edited:
n8ronJ
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2007
- Location
- Niagara Frontier - Somerset, NY
- TDI
- 2014 BMW 328d XDrive, 2003 Jetta GLS TDI 5speed Platinum Grey (sold), 2010 Jetta 6speed (bought back)
...and oh man, it was fun.... I will be saving up for some more TDI goodies.
Enjoyed the ride in your Jetta. Lot's of power and a beautiful car.
Thanks for the hand in working on my car. Was a good time.
Enjoyed the ride in your Jetta. Lot's of power and a beautiful car.
Thanks for the hand in working on my car. Was a good time.
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
I just finished writing...
Link: How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
This past weekend I got 49.1 mpg going 783 miles using the 11-mm IP with RC4 from Connecticut to Western New York (Niagara Frontier). I could have gone 800+ miles, but I wanted to take advantage of the fuel taxes in MA being HALF of that in CT.
I just finished writing...
Link: How to Replace a MKIV ALH Diesel Injection Pump without Changing the Timing Belt
This past weekend I got 49.1 mpg going 783 miles using the 11-mm IP with RC4 from Connecticut to Western New York (Niagara Frontier). I could have gone 800+ miles, but I wanted to take advantage of the fuel taxes in MA being HALF of that in CT.
Last edited:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Thanks Pierre. I usually drive 65 mph on the highway. IBW tells me that he believes RC5 is more fuel efficient than RC4. I'm hoping. The only time I break 50 mpg is for the first fill-up with the standard 15-inch snow tires just before the fuel gets winterized here in CT, so about once per year.tothemax said:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Aftermarket Engine Cover
My OEM engine cover is scratched, cut-up, and has some dried super glue on it (my fault). Long ago, I pulled the foam insulation off of the engine cover because I got tired of it shredding onto my engine.
I found this shiny, black VW Golf/Jetta IV 1.9L TDI carbon fiber engine cover on eBay. Popped in the PD engine cover attachments that I had installed on my OEM cover, and put it on my engine. The new engine cover did not come with any insulation, which was fine with me. I may need to place a washer underneath the rear attachment post attached to the intake manifold because the new engine cover does not have the exact bend toward the rear of the OEM cover. Not a big deal.
Any thoughts?
Edit on June 13: I took the VW emblem off of my OEM engine cover and super glued it to the FD Tuning carbon fiber engine cover. The top of the VW emblem was not scratched because when I purchased the car, the protective plastic was still adhered to it. I've always liked the blue and white VW emblem.
My OEM engine cover is scratched, cut-up, and has some dried super glue on it (my fault). Long ago, I pulled the foam insulation off of the engine cover because I got tired of it shredding onto my engine.
I found this shiny, black VW Golf/Jetta IV 1.9L TDI carbon fiber engine cover on eBay. Popped in the PD engine cover attachments that I had installed on my OEM cover, and put it on my engine. The new engine cover did not come with any insulation, which was fine with me. I may need to place a washer underneath the rear attachment post attached to the intake manifold because the new engine cover does not have the exact bend toward the rear of the OEM cover. Not a big deal.
Any thoughts?
Edit on June 13: I took the VW emblem off of my OEM engine cover and super glued it to the FD Tuning carbon fiber engine cover. The top of the VW emblem was not scratched because when I purchased the car, the protective plastic was still adhered to it. I've always liked the blue and white VW emblem.
Last edited:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
I prefer having an engine cover, even though I know that it really has little function. The rubber grommet on the engine cover for the oil dipstick tube does help to dampen the vibrations of the engine to prevent unintended breaking.
Last edited:
Growler
Got Soot Vendor
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Location
- Millersport, Ohio
- TDI
- Schmutz, 2015 Golf Sportwagen DSG & Schnurren, 2001 Golf GL 2 door 5M
My thoughts exactly.. you spent all that money & effort to colorize your valve cover and your intake and your injectors, and now you hide them?
I run my engine naked and its only slightly different than stock.. I like to see my engine, not some piece of plastic, or carbon fiber.
I run my engine naked and its only slightly different than stock.. I like to see my engine, not some piece of plastic, or carbon fiber.
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
PD150 TIP, R32 Airbox (Top), and R32 MAF Housing
In anticipation of obtaining RC5 with Euro tuning at a GTG tomorrow, last night I installed a PD150 turbo intake pipe (TIP) wrapped with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap[/COLOR], the R32 airbox top, and an R32 MAF housing with my OEM TDI MAF filament.
The PD150 TIP replaces the 2½-inch "OMI" MAF to Turbo Intake. I had already installed the lower portion of the R32 air intake (Post Nr. 202). To get the PD150 accordion tube around the R32 MAF, I used a heat gun to make the plastic pliable, which worked out good.
With the Dynaflow CCV Filter and PD150 TIP on my car, I was able to jettison the Agricultural polypropylene strainer system, though I'll hold onto it just in case. The OEM plastic tube that goes from the Dynaflow CCV to the fitting on the PD150 TIP is a bit strained to its limits. I tried the OEM CCV filter, but there was no improvement to that piece of plastic tubing. I may have to consider some alternative tubing situation, or see what others have done.
In anticipation of obtaining RC5 with Euro tuning at a GTG tomorrow, last night I installed a PD150 turbo intake pipe (TIP) wrapped with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap[/COLOR], the R32 airbox top, and an R32 MAF housing with my OEM TDI MAF filament.
The PD150 TIP replaces the 2½-inch "OMI" MAF to Turbo Intake. I had already installed the lower portion of the R32 air intake (Post Nr. 202). To get the PD150 accordion tube around the R32 MAF, I used a heat gun to make the plastic pliable, which worked out good.
With the Dynaflow CCV Filter and PD150 TIP on my car, I was able to jettison the Agricultural polypropylene strainer system, though I'll hold onto it just in case. The OEM plastic tube that goes from the Dynaflow CCV to the fitting on the PD150 TIP is a bit strained to its limits. I tried the OEM CCV filter, but there was no improvement to that piece of plastic tubing. I may have to consider some alternative tubing situation, or see what others have done.
Last edited:
Nash_TDI
Veteran Member -TDIClub Enthusiast
I have been following your build and love everything and the detail you post. I have almost all the same mods. My ccv is installed the same as yours with worm gear hose clamps on both ends. My CCV gets pretty nasty and not sure if it is from the fumes having to travel up through the hose to the intake pipe, or if its just the nature of the CCV. I made a bunch of replacement filter elements the other day and intend on changing it our more regularly.
Clint
Clint
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Thanks, Clint. Good idea; I'll use the clamps which I had used for my CCV strainer system to keep that plastic tubing in place.
Last edited:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
I got RocketChip RC5 today. My Jetta responds much better at higher rpm than before, and Jeff seemed happy with the results. Nice!
I did not get the Euro tuning, so my car will be ready for CT emissions testing with no problems (I hope) the next time I'm due in 2012. Apparently, I did not need the Euro tuning even though I have the R32 MAF housing. It was interesting to watch Jeff work on my ECU, and converse with him about tuning. Before today, I did not realize that the ECU had to be physically worked upon to install RC5.
In case anyone is thinking about asking, I am NOT going down the road to RC6. I'm not interested in changing the internals of my engine.
I'm looking forward to the next New England Dyno Day.
I did not get the Euro tuning, so my car will be ready for CT emissions testing with no problems (I hope) the next time I'm due in 2012. Apparently, I did not need the Euro tuning even though I have the R32 MAF housing. It was interesting to watch Jeff work on my ECU, and converse with him about tuning. Before today, I did not realize that the ECU had to be physically worked upon to install RC5.
In case anyone is thinking about asking, I am NOT going down the road to RC6. I'm not interested in changing the internals of my engine.
I'm looking forward to the next New England Dyno Day.
Last edited:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
PV = nRT
I have a fellow TDI friend who got RC5 on his car yesterday too. He is experiencing maximum boost pressures of 23½ psi, while I experience 26-27 psi. Here's what I wrote to him:
I was thinking a little more about your lower boost readings with RC5. I don't remember what you do for work, but I am a scientist. More specifically, an analytical chemist. So, I'm thinking of your issue scientifically.
When it comes to our cars and their turbos and intercoolers, I believe we are dealing with the Ideal Gas Law, which is PV = nRT
P = pressure
V= volume
n = moles of whatever your measuring, in our case air
R is a constant and = 8.314472
T = temperature
From the equation, pressure is proportional to temperature. That is why when our turbos build pressure that the intake temperature goes up. As you know, the intercooler is designed to cool the intake temperatures, which has the side effect of decreasing pressure. But, I don't think that is your issue.
In the equation, pressure is inversely proportional to volume. P = 1/V So, as volume increases, pressure decreases.
Your FMIC and its tubing have more volume than my SMIC. So, I'm wondering if the increased volume of your FMIC is what makes your pressure to be 23.5 psi, rather than 26 psi like mine. And, perhaps you don't really have an issue.
Just a theory... Here's a link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law
I have a fellow TDI friend who got RC5 on his car yesterday too. He is experiencing maximum boost pressures of 23½ psi, while I experience 26-27 psi. Here's what I wrote to him:
I was thinking a little more about your lower boost readings with RC5. I don't remember what you do for work, but I am a scientist. More specifically, an analytical chemist. So, I'm thinking of your issue scientifically.
When it comes to our cars and their turbos and intercoolers, I believe we are dealing with the Ideal Gas Law, which is PV = nRT
P = pressure
V= volume
n = moles of whatever your measuring, in our case air
R is a constant and = 8.314472
T = temperature
From the equation, pressure is proportional to temperature. That is why when our turbos build pressure that the intake temperature goes up. As you know, the intercooler is designed to cool the intake temperatures, which has the side effect of decreasing pressure. But, I don't think that is your issue.
In the equation, pressure is inversely proportional to volume. P = 1/V So, as volume increases, pressure decreases.
Your FMIC and its tubing have more volume than my SMIC. So, I'm wondering if the increased volume of your FMIC is what makes your pressure to be 23.5 psi, rather than 26 psi like mine. And, perhaps you don't really have an issue.
Just a theory... Here's a link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
You might be right, but I think it should still reach 26 PSI eventually. I'd look for a boost leak.
shizzler
Veteran Member
Yeah... no matter what size the piping system is, a long sustained run in 3rd of 4th gear should reach the requested pressure easily. The ECU is looking for a certain pressure and will keep adjusting the VNT vanes until it gets there. This is not a static system, nor is the turbo maxed out in this application. It could probably run 35 psi even with a full FMIC...
Wait, is the same situation being discussed in the power section thread that came up today? Is the 23.5 psi a gauge reading or vag-com log?
Congrats on RC5! Must be fun. Don't worry, you can justify the RC6 once something gives out on you unexpectedly and a full rebuild suddenly doesn't seem so ridiculous.
Wait, is the same situation being discussed in the power section thread that came up today? Is the 23.5 psi a gauge reading or vag-com log?
Congrats on RC5! Must be fun. Don't worry, you can justify the RC6 once something gives out on you unexpectedly and a full rebuild suddenly doesn't seem so ridiculous.
79TA7.6
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2006
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta, 2002 TDI Golf, 2005 TDI Golf
Too funny. I have been studying this all this last quarter in my Physics class. Truthfully, I am getting burned out on that equation. It does answer a multitude of problems though. I like how you think.rocketeer928 said:
squire89
Veteran Member
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
No, they are not exactly the same as found on ECS Tuning. I got them off of eBay, searching "Jetta Headlights". I got the wiring kit for fog lamps off of ECS Tuning.
jsrmonster
Veteran Member - TDIClub Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Location
- Red Lion, PA
- TDI
- 15 Golf SW DSG, RC3 piped, 99.5 Jetta Rocket PD150 6spd 4motion, 2000 ASV110 RC6 "Silverbullet" 5spd Race Car, 2003.5 Cummins QCLB 4x4 "Blue Monster" Jeep CRD juiced, MB Sprinter van juiced up
If you are referring to Carlos's black Jetta, it got RC4 (not 5) and boost was right on for his vnt1749VB!rocketeer928 said:
Jeff
Last edited:
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
I was not referring to Carlos. Sending you a private e-mail in response.jsrmonster said:
Joe TDI
Veteran Member
haha... good luck with all that.... I said the same $hit when I had RC5 and then, I got used to it.... Rods, pistons, race bearings, ported head, colt cam & RC6 are just a few thousand $$$ away.... why stop now? LoLrocketeer928 said:
I can't wait to see what that thing runs at the next dyno day... I don't see much less than 175hp at the wheels....
rocketeer928
Veteran Member
Nope. I'm done pouring big $$$ into my Jetta. Just maintenance stuff from now on, and enjoying the ride. I've got other priorities to make my wife happy, like re-doing the kitchen counter tops and our main bathroom. I'm also supposed to have a dining room table done by Thanksgiving (other hobby is woodworking), and I've had the hard maple for almost two years.Joe TDI said:
I'm looking forward to NE Dyno Day too. I'm hoping for at least 160 hp.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
You should get at least 160. I got 173 with RC5 and a similar setup, same dyno.
btcost
Veteran Member
You will make 160 for sure.
Thats why we pick October. . .cool and (hopefully) DRY day. . .
I'll see you once or twice before hand.
Brian
Thats why we pick October. . .cool and (hopefully) DRY day. . .
I'll see you once or twice before hand.
Brian
Joe TDI
Veteran Member
Not if he wants to keep his stock internals in tact.... neck breaking and rod bending.1tdi said:
I am personally concerned with HP because if you wanna go faster, you need higher HP...simple as that.... If you have 160 hp and 280 ft/lbs, you still aint gonna beat a Civic SI...but you sure as hell can tow more than it.... Now with 200hp and that same 280 ft/lbs, then you can beat one.