Anything Special to Change out Fuel Injection pump

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
I have a 2002 VW Jetta GLS TDI. It stopped running on me one day. took it to the VW dealership and they said my Fuel Injection pump went bad and it would cost 2400$ to Replace. i dont have that kinda money. SO i was wondering if i get the fuel injection pump is there anything special i need to do or is it just as easy as replaceing. I would be so greatful for any help.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
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Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
first. Why do you think it's the injeciton pump? I've only replaced one IP, and had mine rebuilt at 160,000 miles for kicks (the ECU failed, and wouldn't start the car).

I've had to reseal quite a few, costs about $40 in parts. The dealer will not reseal the IP for you.

You might want to get it from them, and start troubleshooting it with us.

1: do you have fuel to the injectors (crack the 17mm nut on the top of the injectors)?
2: are there any codes in the ECU?
3: do you get +12v at the fuel cutoff solenoid?


if you are 100% positive it's the injeciton pump, then:

You need the timing belt tools from www.metalnerd.com a vag-com from www.ross-tech.com a good set of hand tools, and I'd probably invest in a bentley manual.

You can find used ones in junkyards from www.car-part.com or check www.tdiparts.com

check the trusted mechanics link for Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Oregon. They rebuilt mine for about $600

If you have an automatic car, it's an 11mm pump

Are you in Midlothian TX?
 

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
Well this is the whole story. I was driving to work one day. It started to run LOUD. i went a little bit farther and it sputtered twice and cut off. it would not start back up. I got a ride to work and back several hours later with a car trailor. it started then and i was able to pull it on to the trailor. It sounded like crap like it wont getting fuel. i played around with it. i talked to my buddy and he said there is a metal tube that comes out the side of the IP turn the key and crack the tube and fuel should come out. i did that numeras times and only got a few drops out. I then got it towed to the VW dealership ad they said the IP needs to be replaced.

I dont know where the fuel cutoff solenoid is.
 

alphaseinor

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try rebleeding the system

whitedog said:
9. You just had something in the fuel system open and now it won't start.

The basics.

<2003

(A) The pump in the injection pump has to suck fuel from the tank and it doesn’t do this very well when it is trying to pull air.

The pump has a hard time getting rid of air inside of it.

Since air compresses, when fuel is trying to be injected, the air acts as a kind of shock absorber and the pressure doesn’t rise high enough to open the injectors and let fuel flow.

(B) If the quantity adjuster was removed, the pin must be in the hole on the collar inside.

>2004

This isn’t much of an issue, but there are a few things to check..

Troubleshooting.

<2003

You have replaced the fuel filter or installed new injectors, or changed the injection pump or you have just fixed a leak on the injection system and now the engine will crank just fine but it won’t start. You need to bleed the fuel system. There are three points you need to bleed:
  1. The fuel filter
  2. The injection pump
  3. The injection lines
1. The easiest way to get the filter primed is to start by filling it with fuel. This can be Diesel fuel or Diesel Purge (a fuel system cleaner) or your favorite additive. Place a clamp on the #2 hose shown below, then remove the Tee on top of the filter and fill the filter as much as possible then reinstall the Tee and remove the clamp (this step is not required, but it makes the rest easier) I mentioned earlier in this thread about the MityVac; this is your best friend at this point. Refer to this picture



and remove hose #4. Install the hose of your Mityvac to the barb on the filter and start pumping until you get good fuel out of the filter. Reinstall the black hose and your filter is bled.

2. The injection pump is a bit trickier. AFTER bleeding the filter, refer to this picture



and remove the hose marked with the purple arrow and install the hose from the Mityvac. Install a clamp on the hose you just removed and pump and pump until you get fuel coming out of that tube. Remove the Mityvac and reinstall the black hose.

3. After (and only after), the first two items are bled, it’s time to bleed the injection lines. You would think that the pump would push the fuel through the injectors. Well, it will eventually but unless you want to prematurely replace your starter, bleed the lines. What happens is that since the injectors don’t have much fuel leaking through them, and since it takes a very high pressure to open the injection valve on the nozzles, AND since the pump is only moving a small amount of fuel with each pumping action, you don’t get much fuel traveling through the lines displacing the air. So you want to get the air out of the lines and allow the pump to fill them with fuel.

Take a look at the picture above and locate the four injector line nuts marked with Red, Yellow, Green and Dark Blue. Those are cylinders #1, #2, #3 and #4 respectively. Notice that #3 is taller than the others. This is because this one is special. It has a sensor in it that tells the computer when it injects fuel. For this reason, you want to take a 17 MM wrench (or 11/16 if that’s all you have) and loosen that nut about ½ turn. Do the same with #4. Drape a rag over the injectors because fuel will be spurting out, hopefully as high as the hood. Now have an assistant crank the engine until you see fuel squirting out. Let it crank for no more than 30 seconds then wait two minutes before trying again. Have the helper stop cranking and you tighten the nuts you loosened.

***NOTE: Be careful with high pressure fuel. If it gets injected into the skin, it can cause death. If fuel does get injected into the skin, drop everything and get to the hospital immediately!!!***

Once the nuts are loosened, try starting the car again. (be sure to observe the 30 second cranking rule)
Still nothing on the second try? OK. Get aggressive and crack open all four of the lines like before and get a good flow of clear fuel out of the injector nuts. Once this flow is established, tighten down the nuts and give it another shot.

(B) If you removed the quantity adjuster to replace the seals, you must reinsert the adjusting pin of the quantity adjuster in the hole in the control collar inside the pump. If you aren't sure, take it back apart and double check.

Also, be sure that you reinstalled the housing in the position that you previously marked.

If you have bled the filter and the pump and now the lines and you still aren’t getting any fuel, you have more homework to do.

As a note, keep an eye on that clear line (or install a temporary one if yours doesn’t have one). Watch for movement of large air bubbles as you go about testing everything. You may stumble on the source if you move something and suddenly the bubble moves, or stops moving, depending on the circumstance.

>2004

The basics.

In #5 above, I described the difference in the fuel system and because of this difference, there isn’t much of a problem here, but it isn’t trouble free.

Troubleshooting.

Pull the #4 hose off of the filter head and see if you are getting fuel out of it when the key is turned on. If you are, then your fuel system is bled.

A bit of patience with turning the key on and off a few times will bleed all of the air out of the fuel system.

I did find one post (though there may be others) about someone having troubles bleeding their filter after a filter change. Here is the link.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
Joined
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Location
Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
also, when was your last timing belt change, and who did it?

have you run biodiesel or WVO in the system?
 

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
Alright i will Try to bleed all of the syestem first and i will see what happins. I havent been putting Biodiesel in i just put in what ever is at the local gas station. I know it isnt Bio diesel
 

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
The line that i was telling u before that i cracked is if u look at the pic Where the purple arrow is u see it goes from a black hose into a metal hose and into the side of the IP that big gold nut is the on a loosened up and cranked and only got a few drops out
 

alphaseinor

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Jul 30, 2006
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Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
That's where you want to bleed the system from with a mityvac. that just says you don't have any fuel in the IP. The IP will not pull fuel from the tank by itself, it needs to be primed.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
Cstowell20 said:
Can i get the mityvac at any local auto store? is it very expensive??
Autozone, $40 in the "help!" section
Harbor Freight $30 in the auto section

It's just a hand vacuum pump
 

McBrew

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Oct 30, 2002
Location
Annapolis, MD
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2003 Golf GLS TDI, 5 speed, Silver/Grey
Even after you get it running, you might want to have a TDI guru look at it to see how many things the VW dealership screwed up. Midlothian... Virginia? If so, shoot a message out to Car54 (Matt). If you can't get in touch with him, there are lots of other people in the VA/DC/MD area who are good with TDIs... and none of them work for dealerships.
 

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
yall say to try to re-prime it. Why would it have lost its prime in the first place. do they do that everyonce and awhile?? It had plenty of fuel it in when it broke down it aint like it ran out of gas.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Denton, TX
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
They lose their prime when they have a seal leak. The usual areas are the o rings on the thermostatic T on the filter (very common) and some of the injection pump seals when people use Bio Diesel (not very common).
 

McBrew

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Location
Annapolis, MD
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2003 Golf GLS TDI, 5 speed, Silver/Grey
The usual areas are the o rings on the thermostatic T on the filter (very common) and some of the injection pump seals when people use Bio Diesel (not very common).
Mine was losing its prime due to the injection pump head seal. It's not just biodiesel, though... ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) will also make your o-rings shrink.
 

bhen

New member
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Mar 27, 2008
Location
Arlington, TX
TDI
2002 Jetta
@alphaseinor
1: do you have fuel to the injectors (crack the 17mm nut on the top of the injectors)?
2: are there any codes in the ECU?
3: do you get +12v at the fuel cutoff solenoid?
--------

having same problem with sudden no-start. cranks but does not start.
for me:
1) did that--no fuel to injectors
2) guy w/ vac-com came out and read codes, said he's pretty sure its IP, but I don't know what codes he was getting
3) only 9.6v measured at IP upon cranking--does that matter?

also replaced 109 relay, replaced fuel filter, glow plugs are good, battery fully charged, gas in tank. have not bled fuel line however. what next?
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Location
Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
I take it you are not starting?

1) you should have fuel to the injectors (see #3)
2) there shouldn't be any codes in the ECU
3) You should have +12 at the solenoid for about 3 seconds. if you don't then you won't be able to get fuel at #1

Have you fully bled the entire fuel system starting with the fuel filter, then the injection pump, then the injectors?

Worst case, give me a call (see my profile for the number, or just call me at TDI Innovations)
 

Cstowell20

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Location
Midlothian
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI
I have 2 more questions:
The mityvac is that the Proper name for it or is that a short name. nother words if i ask for a mityvac will soneone know what i mean?

2nd" When priming the FIP it sayd disconnect the hose with the purple arrow, if u look at the pic on the other page. do i hook the vac up to the rubber hose or the metal part of the hose??
 

whitedog

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Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
You need to suck the air out of the fuel pump, so hook up to the pump and pump away.

Will the person know what a MityVac is? Maybe. If not, ask for a hand held vacuum pump for sucking fluids.
 

McBrew

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Location
Annapolis, MD
TDI
2003 Golf GLS TDI, 5 speed, Silver/Grey
MityVac is a brand name product. Kind of like asking for a Band-Aid when you mean an adhesive bandage, or a Kleenex when you want a tissue. MityVac sells different kits. Here's the one I have:
http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/07000.jpg
Their cheapest kit doesn't have the vacuum gauge on it. Don't get that one! On HarborFreight's web site, they show the kit without the gauge, but in the HF store near me, they have the kit with the gauge for the same price (the kit as pictured in the link above). You'll want to have one of these in your tool kit for sure.

It should cost about $35, give or take a few bucks.

The brass-bodied vacuum pumps are known to fail early. My father has a few of them, and I think only one actually holds vacuum. They are about half the price, and very tempting... but you probably don't want to go that route.
 
Last edited:

bhen

New member
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Mar 27, 2008
Location
Arlington, TX
TDI
2002 Jetta
@alphaseinor

Correct, I am not starting. I have not bled the fuel system. I do not have fuel to the injectors. I'll have to check voltage again to see if I'm getting 12 for the 3 sec.
 

bhen

New member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Location
Arlington, TX
TDI
2002 Jetta
I tried bleeding the system with the MityVac but I am still having a problem.

I have fuel IN to the fuel filter (fully primed/filled) and I have fuel OUT of the filter. We had a problem pulling fuel out of the injection pump. It would not hold vacuum. So I disconnected the line that goes from the filter in to the IP, sunk it into a container of diesel and pumped through the IP. It would pull fuel, but with a lot of tiny air bubbles. A LOT. And it would quickly lose vacuum making a faint air leaking sound coming from somewhere near the IP.

How would I know if that's what mine needs a reseal? I am very hesitant to take it to the dealership where I have a feeling they're going to tell me I need a whole new IP.

Would it be feasible to install a pump inline between the filter and the IP and simply not worry about the IP having to siphon? Would it matter that the IP wasn't 100% sealed as long as it was getting supplied fuel from that pump? Has anyone done anything like that that on a <2003?
 
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