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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 25th, 2013, 08:47   #1
jjcsnlynn
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Default How to fix drip from drain plug?

I am at my wits end. I cannot stop my oil from dripping at the drain plug.
I've changed the oil pan
Changed plug
changed copper crush washer
changed to a fiber washer and it stopped for a while.

What else can I do except NOT put oil in it?
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Old February 25th, 2013, 08:52   #2
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I have good luck with my Metalnerd drain plug. Fit is perfect. Not sure if you went with a cheap parts store drain plug, somtimes they are a little too universal to actually work sometimes.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 11:46   #3
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Are you torquing it to the correct value?

I don't have the number, off hand.

Tony
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Old February 25th, 2013, 11:47   #4
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The guys at Jiffy Lube use a blue colored sealant to seal up the stripped threads.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 12:47   #5
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Oil drain plug torque is 22 ft/lbs per Bentley A30
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Old February 25th, 2013, 13:15   #6
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I installed a "Fumoto" oil drain valves years ago & love it. Get it with the nipple option so you can hook a piece of tygon up when draining. If you need to, use RTV to seal up threads when you install it.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 14:33   #7
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Fumoto valve scares me. All I can see in my sleep is running over a branch I can't drive around and it grabs the valve and opens it. Just me though, a lot of people like the 10 seconds it saves them when changing oil.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 14:37   #8
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Are you sure the leak is coming from the plug and not something higher up?
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Old February 25th, 2013, 14:44   #9
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Are you sure the leak is coming from the plug and not something higher up?
I second this....sealing a drain plug on a steel pan is pretty far from a challenging endeavor....
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Old February 25th, 2013, 16:41   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Are you sure the leak is coming from the plug and not something higher up?
Thanks for all the responses. I got the replacement pan, spare plugs and copper crush gaskets from ID Parts. I assume they aren't the "Cheap" ones.

I know the drip is from the plug. Last time I changed the oil I actually got a whole cycle out of it by using the green fiber gasket I got from Advance auto. I didn't have a spare one, so I went back to the copper gasket and it's leaking again.

I do not torque it, as I have a calibrated wrist! LOL. I wonder what the blue gasket sealer is that I could put on without messing up the threads?
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Old February 25th, 2013, 17:48   #11
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could the sealant be RTV silicone? i am guessing that someone else would have known if this was what you are looking for. i have used it once with a plumbing leak caused by pipes that did not quite line up, not a leak after 5 yrs. stays flexible and is easy enough to clean off at a later date. only problem is they say to let it dry for 24hrs, iirc. i will probably get laughed at for guessing this but it is the only .02 worth of input i have for you.

good luck,
ciao,
waltz
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Old February 25th, 2013, 18:10   #12
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I do not torque it, as I have a calibrated wrist!
Have your wrist professionally calibrated.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 19:42   #13
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Have your wrist professionally calibrated.
I second that motion and move to finalize it
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Old February 26th, 2013, 17:22   #14
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My buddy in was in the navy and told me his arm was calibrated. There would be bolts/nuts that had to be torqued without being able to see the gauge. They would use a machine say 5 times to get a memory of how much to pull then torque the bolt/nut.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 18:07   #15
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there is a loose nut and its at the end of the calibrated arm good luck on getting drip free, the quest a number of us are on. I try to remember I have a 20 year old VW and it makes me realize I should be happy its still on the road.
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