Resistor threw a code!

I installed the Evry fuel mod today. Works great with a 1k resistor (980 ohms actually)soldered in place across wires 2 and 3, with a little disconnect thingy from radio shack in case I want to remove it. The only problems is I get the stupid code BillW mentions- after a sort delay. After the car starts, it is ok for about ten seconds, then the glow plug light starts to flash, followed by steady CEL a few seconds later. The strange thing is that the CEL and GP still act up after I removed the resistor! Everything in the car is stock but the 1k ohm 1 watt resistor and a few fender lining vents. Perhaps the resistor has too low a power rating, so it is ok until it gets hot from a little current.

***?

Hmmm, just thought of something. I disconnected a few things for easier access to the 10 pin plug... Maybe something is still loose. Guess I'll check it over again.

is it neccesary to disconnect the battery before doing this?

Is there any way to reset the ECU by pulling a fuse or something like on a Honda?

There's no way that resistor has an inadequate power rating no matter what. There's maybe 2 or 3 volts across it MAX, that's 2 or 3 milliamps, which is 4 to 9 milliwatts. Even a 1/4 watt resistor has a power rating at least 30 times this!

As noted in the original thread, different vehicles seem to have different reactions to this mod. Mine is at 900 ohms, no problem.

Brian P.
'96 Passat TDI mit UPsolute

Lucky for me Mickey's Garage is a stones throw away! I stopped by to chat a bit and we threw on the vag-com. It was the dreaded warp field collapse! With the resistor in, it would not clear. Resistor removed, the code cleared A-ok.

Maybe this is something to revisit after Upsolution (and Epsilution) at the Fest.

Wonder if the stock auto injectors could not pass enough fuel to stave off the warp field collapse. Perhaps .184 is in order post Upsolute!

I recommend an UPsolute chip and Piper-X panel filter, like we talked about. (He doesn't want a cone filter...wants to make a custom cold air intake for the stock box.)

My next suggestion would be a Big Turbo upgrade. Either a complete VNT-17 conversion on an A3 or European manifold or, if funds don't allow that much tinkering, a copy of my VNT-15/T-27 hybrid turbo. I'm leery of pushing the stock turbo real hard at this altitude. A "hybrid" upgrade would probably cost you around $500, give or take. If you wait until your stock turbo ries, a new turbo would be $1200...plus you'd immediately do the "hybrid" anyway to prevent another meltdown, so you'd be into it $1700 total. Better to spend the $500 sooner than $1700 later!

Once those are done, do something about the intercooling.

FINALLY, when everything else is said and done, get some .184 injectors.

This is a little different order than I'd recommend for a flatlander. But being up here in the hills means you should move the turbo mod way up the priority list, just for safety's sake.

You'll also want to do something about oil cooling ASAP if you plan to mess with performance mods.

-mickey

p.s. We yanked the oil cooler off my old engine this evening. It appears that the oil cooler adapter from PermaCool will bolt directly on there! I really think we can simply replace the stock oil cooler with an adapter and an air-cooled device really easily.

Can't wait to see how the oil cooler works out.

I still need to stop by with my heat gun so we can vent your fender!

Oh, yeah!

Y'all should see his intercooler fender vent! He cut slits in the liner, then pried the ends of the slits open while applying heat with a heat gun. The plastic softened, and now there are perfect, "molded" vents in the liner! Very slick.

-mickey