ALH rabbit truck swap

Demon Diesel · Nov 30, 2014

rspring said:
Very nice. I really want to do a CR swap into one of these once my R32 is done.

I've been thinking the same thing. Either a 79 Rabbit CR or a caddy CR syncro!

oldpoopie · Dec 1, 2014

One problem solved leads to another. The new manifold brings the turbo into a good position with no interference with the firewall, but the oil drain line is now at a small uphill angle.... NO GOOD!

I'm looking into using the 1.8T oil pan, or get one of the steel hybrid pans and weld in a bung. Either way I'll be draining into the pan directly.

Demon Diesel · Dec 1, 2014

Stupid question... Why is this a problem? The supply oil pressure is at 60psi or so. I'm sure that oil will easily get pushed up that slight incline. Looks wrong but I think functionally it's fine.

oldpoopie · Dec 1, 2014

From a couple other websites....

The lubricating oil flows into the turbocharger at a pressure of approximately 4 bar. As the oil drains off at low pressure, the oil drain pipe diameter must be much larger than the oil inlet pipe. The oil flow through the bearing should, whenever possible, be vertical from top to bottom. The oil drain pipe should be returned into the crankcase above the engine oil level. Any obstruction in the oil drain pipe will result in back pressure in the bearing system. The oil then passes through the sealing rings into the compressor and the turbine.

and

In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:
• Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
• Draining into oil pan below oil level
• Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
• Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from
crankshaft

When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within 15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

Quoted from another website.

greengeeker · Dec 1, 2014

oldpoopie said:
Avoid:
• Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
• Draining into oil pan below oil level
• Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
• Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from
crankshaft

Doesn't the 1.8t turbo drain enter the pan below the oil line?

Couldn't you just drill and tap the block in a lower location?

oldpoopie · Dec 1, 2014

Yes, 1.8t does drain below oil level. Not sure why VW did that or why it was ok.
I don't think I'd be comfortable drilling and tapping a new hole into the block. Yikes! Easier to put a drain into the pan!

Demon Diesel · Dec 1, 2014

It does seem like a good idea to have a free flowing path out but I'd be surprised if that slight uphill or even draining into the pan itself caused even 1psi of backpressurse. And surely the turbo can't be that sensitive.

Maybe a quick email to Garrett would yield an answer.

MAXRPM · Dec 1, 2014

Justin really nice build and subscribed,, when done hope you bring it to San Pablo GTG so I can check that jewel out,, it"s going to be a freaking fast caddy.

Demon Diesel · Dec 1, 2014

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_water_plumbing

Found this on the Garrett website. Looks like the problem is more related to coking and heatsoak.
Is the 1.8T a water cooler turbo by any chance?

TDIMeister · Dec 2, 2014

Well, there's oil pressure behind feed-in and only crankcase pressure at the drain, so I don't know how big of a problem it really is to have that slight uphill travel... If the photo is exactly level, the oil drain flange at the outlet of the CHRA is still very slightly higher than at the block.

TDIMeister · Dec 2, 2014

Well, there's oil pressure behind feed-in and only crankcase pressure at the drain, so I don't know how big of a problem it really is to have that slight uphill travel... If the photo is exactly level, the oil drain flange at the outlet of the CHRA is still very slightly higher than at the block.

oldpoopie · Dec 2, 2014

I have the engine tilted at exactly 15 degrees. The chra outlet is about 1.5" higher than the hole in the block, its just that the bend in the line causes the line to drop below the block by a very small amount.

whitedog · Dec 2, 2014

Can a different hose be fabricated that would shorten that drop before the 90?

Hey, it's only your money, I can have all the expensive ideas I like.

whitedog · Dec 2, 2014

There is going to be some uphill travel from the metal connector, through the fitting and into the block, I guess the goal is to shorten it as much as possible.

runonbeer · Dec 2, 2014

just run it

greengeeker · Dec 2, 2014

Demon Diesel said:
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_water_plumbing

Found this on the Garrett website. Looks like the problem is more related to coking and heatsoak.
Is the 1.8T a water cooler turbo by any chance?

Yes, water cooled turbo.

Demon Diesel · Dec 3, 2014

So is it safe to say that the 1.8T drain line is allowed to go into the bottom of the oil pan because it is a water cooled turbo?

oldpoopie · Dec 3, 2014

I think it depends more on the drain hose size and relative drop from turbo to pan

JFettig · Dec 3, 2014

stick a bung into the pan towards the top - it'll be above the oil level, especially while the engine is running.

For what its worth - I'm using the stock 1.8T location with a welded AN bung on my passat for my TD06. No issues so far, I haven't run it for many miles but no issues.

Stock B5.5 oil drain lines do a weird uphill jog(99% sure B5.5 lines do that, my B5 does).

oldpoopie · Dec 17, 2014

Ok, i went with a stock 1.8t oil pan.
Upgraded to -10AN drain fittings.
After a few iterations ive landed on the solution.

I bolted the inner cv heat shied in place to see where the driveshaft will land.

This was my first version, too many bends at the turbo and i was still worried the driveshaft would hit.

Then I rotated the center housing a bit and went with a simpler route.

Now I can focus on the oil feed line, bolt the clutch and trans on, and get the damn motor into the truck!

CrAzYDr1veR · Dec 21, 2014

flange

with the same turbo/manifold combo all i used in the return line was a flange with a 45º bend welded, rubber and a fitting like yours to the block.

Very short and easy to do

oldpoopie · Dec 21, 2014

Take a photo of your return line, I want to see.

CrAzYDr1veR · Dec 21, 2014

i made this for a friend mine is the same but shorter and straight fitting on the block

oldpoopie · Jan 30, 2015

Finally big progress

Well finally, the motor is going in!

This the frankenmotor 1.6 that is coming out. My buddy that im getting the truck from built it to go in his race scirocco. Dynoed 30psi and on NOS at over 250hp.

All out, new motor in background!

New motor bolts in tomorrow!

jimbote · Jan 31, 2015

holy crap!... 250hp on an IDI !.... is that an AAZ head?

oldpoopie · Jan 31, 2015

jimbote said:
holy crap!... 250hp on an IDI !.... is that an AAZ head?

Yep. The motor is going into this:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,27959.0.html

Dyno runs:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,28825.msg252051.html#msg252051

GTiTDi · Jan 31, 2015

hows he keep those prechambers in?!

oldpoopie · Jan 31, 2015

Lol, good question!

oldpoopie · Jan 31, 2015

Motor is all bolted in today. Went in super easy! Just had to clearance the frame rail a small amount for the serp tensioner.

Turbo outlet will be rotated down tomorrow.

Plenty of room for the driveshaft.

Biggest hurdle now will be wiring and of course, getting the exhaust thru here....

runonbeer · Feb 1, 2015

Looks purdy, but the Chaxle? Lame.

ALH rabbit truck swap

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