'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

No I am certainly not a woman! I am assuming this clarifies things a bit for you

cumminsfromthecold said:

Did you bother with a glow plug light in the cluster anywhere?

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Great project! I just added a glow plug indicator to my truck and used one of these lights. Just a press fit into a 5/32" hole. I put it in the dash surround to the right of the cluster next to the WTS light. You should be able to just tap into the GP relay output to the plugs for your hot.

Glow Plug Light

Honeydew said:

Great project! I just added a glow plug indicator to my truck and used one of these lights. Just a press fit into a 5/32" hole. I put it in the dash surround to the right of the cluster next to the WTS light. You should be able to just tap into the GP relay output to the plugs for your hot.

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Thanks Honeydew!

TDC on an AHU/1Z and ALH

JayTee013, we're at about the same stage, it sounds like. Good to know my also backordered MC 1600# clutch is en route. I just made this move, so hope this helps.

Buy this timing belt tool kit:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=312

Remove the valve cover without dropping crumbs into the turbo or intake manifold ports, etc...


You're going for the camshaft end notch (on the left in this pic). The cam lock plate slips into the cam slot when the engine's at TDC -- or 180 degrees off TDC.


Sliding the cam lock in

So, how do you know which is TDC and which is 180 degrees off? Well, according to
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4/vw-passat-jetta-tdi-timing-belt-removal-mk3.htm#caution

"Both of the camshaft #1 lobes (closest to passenger side on a North American left hand drive car) should be pointing up. The reason why the camshaft lobes should be pointing up is because this indicates that they are not pushing open the valves. The camshaft lock should fit in the machined slot at the other end of the camshaft." Like so:




Here's my shot of cam lock in place:



And here's the shot from myturbodiesel.com's page:


I found a secondary way to lock it in place, too. The pin that worked for locking the IP on my MKIV Jetta (ALH) works perfectly going through a hole in the harmonic balancer on this AHU/1Z. I did the camlock first, then this.


(Yes, that's clear duct tape holding it in.)

Have fun!

That crank locking technique with the A4 ALH lock pin is pretty neat, woulda tried it when I did my Timing belt. How is that A2 CE2 wiring resource helping you out?

GT15 turbo cleaning, TDC, wiring

GTiTDi, That wiring key is immensely helpful. I haven't dragged the harness into the house to sort through, yet, but will this week. I imagine that then, I'll get my head around how I'll move the needed relays and fuses to the Toyota, and which I can tap into on the truck.

The TDC trick works, but I can see being a tooth off. That, too, though can be resolved. I agree, the exact middle between the two topmost bellhousing bolts is TDC. Anyone else familiar with the pin I'm using to fit into the harmonic balancer hole? I found nothing for locking the IP at TDC...

What's the best way to clean a turbo? The little GT 15 needs it, and cleaning a turbo's new to me.

Clutch plate and flywheel are off (they're still in great shape). Will adapt the Toyota tin plate and trial assemble the engine and transmission for a rough in that should show me if I will need to move the engine and transmission assembly forward or not (please please please not ). And then more cleaning....

Regarding cleaning, here's some good stuff:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-turbo-removal-vanes.htm

Taking the turbine (hot) side apart can be difficult. Soot and corrosion can lock the parts together. Don't pound on it too hard!

OTOH, if you do (pound on it too hard), you may have an "opportunity" for an upgrade...

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/tditurbo.htm

e*clipse said:

Regarding cleaning, here's some good stuff:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-turbo-removal-vanes.htm

Taking the turbine (hot) side apart can be difficult. Soot and corrosion can lock the parts together. Don't pound on it too hard!

OTOH, if you do (pound on it too hard), you may have an "opportunity" for an upgrade...

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/tditurbo.htm

Click to expand...

That is an interesting thread about rebuilding VNT turbos but unfortunately I don't think that will help him since he is using a 1Z which has a waste gate actuated turbo, not variable nozzle geometry

Ooops! My mistake. I saw ***15 and immediately thought "vnt15"

On the other hand, I AM running a VNT on my 1Z. I started w/ a vnt-15 and went to a vnt-20.

Just a little controls issue, which is pretty easy to resolve w/ a tune and the right N75 valve.

Since you have already used this kit and that fancy little tool for aligning the cam, would I be wrong to assume that a piece of aluminum (or steel) sheetmetal of the correct thickness would work just find to set the cam @ TDC?

I think I'm going to try a piece of sheetmetal along with a measurement between the Bolt holes and then just figure out a way of locating the Toyota flywheel (Maybe Luke wilson's dowel pin setup) to the block or trans housing so that in the future I can do a TB. Right now I can care less about the TB, as I'm more concerned with getting the motor in there and running. I don't like adding variables into the equation as the motor ran great when pulled and I have the receipt for a new TB 20k ago by the previous owner.

From looking at that really nice kit in the link, I think if I bought that at the time of a TB change I should be able to find TDC without a flywheel reference anyway, Correct?

Also I think you are few steps ahead. I need some time, been working like crazy. leaving the house @ 5am and not home until 7pm. NO FUN...

e*clipse said:

Ooops! My mistake. I saw ***15 and immediately thought "vnt15"

On the other hand, I AM running a VNT on my 1Z. I started w/ a vnt-15 and went to a vnt-20.

Just a little controls issue, which is pretty easy to resolve w/ a tune and the right N75 valve.

Click to expand...

Cool! I want to run a VNT on my 1Z eventually!

I found a flat file i had kicking around fit the cam perfectly. Any piece of metal will work, but it does need to fit tight. You can shim it with a feeler gauge too if need be.

shimming the cam tool (or flat stock of correct thickness) equally on either side ensures exact cam timing, just have two sets of gauges ready, if you don't , borrow a buddies!

'97 Passat donor remnants and what to keep

So the Passat is sold and en route to Chicago. I've removed the engine harness, ECM, OBD2 port, brake pedal switch, GT15 turbo flange (sawzall) , and the accelerator pedal. The accelerator pedal was the most difficult thing to remove thus far (again, though, probably because I've never done that before...).

I am thinking I should err on the side of removing some of the wires that were spliced in to connect to dash gauges and the OBD2 just in case.

But my question is a redundant one - is there anything else off the Passat beyond what I mentioned that should come off? I'm also keeping the relay/fuse box

Does the switch off the brake pedal need to come off, or just the harness that connects to the brake pedal switch?

Now to reassemble the thing for transport... and shovel more snow. Slow progress in this much snow...

Starter

Just curious if you had any idea what starter you are going to use. I talked to acme adapters and I guess they have a clockable 22re starter. They are supposed to get back to me with the physical dimensions of it as well as the output and most importantly cost. I would like a 2.0kW at least. I think that is what the stock VW starter is. Dunno if you've given any thought to this yet.

Also I was rereading your earlier posts and saw that you shipped the tin plate with your yota motor. I have the same problem (started with a ford v8 between the fenderwells). I read someone else's thread (not sure if it was on here or not, i look at so many) and they said they just asked ACME and they sent them out everything they needed - no charge. I tried it and Jeff said he would send me what I needed for no charge and it is currently en route. You may want to try that...

Well I came up from the garage to print out your post on TDC as I was just down the garage in the process of locating that right now. Back at it, good luck.

Re. tin plate and starter

"

JayTee013 said:

Just curious if you had any idea what starter you are going to use. I talked to acme adapters and I guess they have a clockable 22re starter. They are supposed to get back to me with the physical dimensions of it as well as the output and most importantly cost. I would like a 2.0kW at least. I think that is what the stock VW starter is. Dunno if you've given any thought to this yet."

I am looking at the clockable 2.0 kW starter from late '90s Tacomas. This list here
http://www.statracing.com/replacement/toyota/starter.asp
shows a couple to choose from. Wary of the starter/turbo conflict, I am wanting the smallest one available. What did ACME say? Maybe that's the way to go - ACME's been very helpful. jimbote's 2.0 kW starter works fine, though he is building a '96 Tacoma with an ALH, so it's a little different.


"Also I was rereading your earlier posts and saw that you shipped the tin plate with your yota motor. I have the same problem (started with a ford v8 between the fenderwells). I read someone else's thread (not sure if it was on here or not, i look at so many) and they said they just asked ACME and they sent them out everything they needed - no charge. I tried it and Jeff said he would send me what I needed for no charge and it is currently en route. You may want to try that..."

Wow, there you go. I do want to try that. ACME's again very helpful. I traded Dr. Smash Designs in Carson City my old drum brakes, some unused brake lines, an LSPV, and a master cylinder for a 22RE tin plate. Very cool. Ready to cut it out, but waiting (still, going on 8 weeks) for Marlin Crawler's 1600lb clutch to arrive before I dry fit, cut, and assemble it all. I have sorta lost it with MC...

e*clipse fabbed a nice starter tab piece out of what looked like 1/4" steel. Not sure if there are pics in his build thread or not.

Rock on

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Here's the reponse I got from ACME:

"Toyota used both a 1.0 and a 1.4kw starter. We have on the shelf custom starters we like best for the toyota/vw diesel application and are clockable to get away from the turbo outlet some, 2.0kw, $285 plus shipping. let me know if you have any other questions."
Sounds like a good starter, but kind of pricey... I think I might try to make a starter from the Autoparts store work so it won't be so hard to locate/replace when it fries. I think I might just buy/borrow a few different models from the Autoparts store when it is time for that phase of the project before dropping $300 on one.

Hey forgot to mention. I already got my plates from ACME. The guy must have literally got my email and put them in the mail. That was a fast response. Apparently ACME is a little different than Marlin Crawler.

My advise: ask Acme for the plates. They are gorgeous!! Water jetted out to what looks like a perfect fit and zinc plated the same as the adapter. Definitely worth dropping the email.

i must have missed something, what are the tin plates for?

They are like a shim for the starter to get the proper spacing for when it engages into the flywheel and an inspection cover for the bottom of the bell housing.

Since the Passat went to Chicago, not much news. Full day to get everything back together and then ready the thing for shipping (plugging fuel and other lines, taping electrical connections, etc... etc...). Lots of cleaning, both of a 27 yr old truck and a 14 year old 1Z. I've gotten great wiring diagrams for the Passat/1Z motor and begun labeling and tracing. G60ING's pics on tdiclub include the German style diagrams for the 1Z. I found Mitchell Repair diagrams (w/ American style diagramming) from a friend at a shop here in town who I just asked, and the two together work pretty well


The '84 Toyota appears to have some unique wiring going on, as the '85s wiring is different - '85s had EFI, among other differences. My '84 has an emissions computer, too, and I've not been able to find a pin-out for that. Admittedly, I am hardly fluent in wiringdiagramese. With the motor in and essential engine components connected, I know it will come together. I piece together another wiring detail every other evening or so. I'm drawing from a Mitchell Repair guide (most useful so far), a rather worthless '70-'88 Toyota Chilton manual, an '85 FSM and even a '93 FSM. Looking for '84 FSMs. The Yotatech forum linked me to Autozone, which supplies these online wiring diagrams for '84 Toyotas and surrounding years:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004d7c3

I've researched a lot of parts suppliers, specifically avoiding Chinese crap. Boraparts' $300 Oldpoopie timing belt + kit is pretty complete for my motor right now, plus Aaron said he'd change out the kit's serpentine and v-belt for a 1Z engine without AC, which mine will happily lack. ACME Adapters is sending a custom 2.0kW starter that clocks 30 degrees (and more if you really need it) that will clear the GT15 turbo.

In Reno, I found an intake manifold off an 80something Jetta 1.8 gas engine for $40. Right, more cleaning. Hope I can close the Toyota hood with it on... An AAZ manifold would have been nice, but I can't find one with an elbow (nor can I fabricate said elbow).


Looking at the BMW E30 motor mounts ($30 pair) vs. the 300D hydraulic motor mounts (I can get a "good deal at $130/pair).


On the way is a new crankshaft rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and water flange o-ring (for the flange I found at Hansdieselparts.com that replaces my stock one with coolant glow plugs in it - off the back of the head). And there's my 1600# clutch, ordered 9 weeks ago, that I'm tired of *****ing about and have learned to work around.


Off to pull the bed off the Toyota to remove the in-tank fuel pump and measure line sizes. Ordering all Viton hoses from Greaseworks up in Oregon.

I tried looking for the aaz elbow also. Hard to find. Went and bid on ebay.de. Used google translator where needed etc. Got the whole intake shipped using paypal. Got it today. Happy

AAZ intake manifold and elbow

jetfiremuck said:

I tried looking for the aaz elbow also. Hard to find. Went and bid on ebay.de. Used google translator where needed etc. Got the whole intake shipped using paypal. Got it today. Happy

Click to expand...

Nice work - I may end up doing that myself, as I really want to put the dieselgeek racepipe on this. I may just fab my own to work with this big ol' 1.8l gas engine intake manifold I got.

For those who read this thread later: the AAZ intake manifold has a flange that allows for an elbow that points either way. The AAZ manifold perfectly matches the 1Z/AHU engine - it just has that detachable neck and elbow that requires a little gasket of some sort and bolts on with two bolts.



E*clipse quoted a whole list of compatible intake manifolds here.

Light Duty Transmission Swap Bible

From High Desert Offroad
http://highdesertoff-road.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=65

Great resource link showing bellhousing details, dimensions, large and small pattern transmissions, and much more. Helpful for Toyota/TDI swaps and others.

As i understand it, the gas manifold requires a fair bit of porting to go from the oval style to the D-shape the diesels have. I'm probably going to the u-pull it early in the week, i'll have a look for an AAZ manifold.

couldn't you guys just use an ALH mani?....if so I'll let go some of my overburden for cheap....

ACME Adapter to 1Z dry fit details

jimbote said:

couldn't you guys just use an ALH mani?....if so I'll let go some of my overburden for cheap....

Click to expand...

(Edit - yes, yes you can, and I did. Thanks Jimbote!)

jimbote, once the motor's rotated to a longitudinal direction like it finally is in my case...



... the ALH manifold would point toward the firewall. So, no worky for me. There's the chop-in-half-and-rotate-the-top trick, but I'm trying to minimize welding time, even though I happily have a local 30 year master working on it all for a great rate.

Luke, I don't have the most discerning mechanic's eye, but I thought the match of the 1.8 gas manifold with the 1Z's intake ports was so close as not to really matter. I honestly don't know if a 1/8" lip inside the manifold to head connection will be a big deal or not. Thoughts?

So the clutch arrived Thursday evening, a mere couple months after I ordered it. It even came with the wrong sized (32mm) pilot bearing:


The Oilite bushing (21mm OD, 12mm ID - perfect) is on the left, the wrong sized 32mm OD by 12 mm ID pilot bearing from company whose name I'll not be speaking is on the right. Thinking of newbies like myself, here's a point of interest. Why the Oilite bushing and not a bearing? Jeff at ACME told me that the Oilite, which is not inexpensive, is brass infused with graphite, so there's your lubricant - plus, no moving parts/bearing rollers to fail, as in the 32mm bearing. Sweet.

I pulled the bed off the truck to access fuel lines and get rid of 27 year old fuel system stuff that I know bioDiesel will simply dissolve (pump, lines). SO, dc'd lights, license plate, bumper, and 8 bed bolts. Here's another handy tip. Don't have your wife help you. That bed is real steel, baby, and it's heavy. Also, don't pull the bed off to the side of the truck - pull it back and off so that you aren't doing Twister in the truck frame to move the bed off to the side.



Back to the mating of trans/engine - 1st, a nice easy setting of the Oilite bushing into crankshaft flange.


The Oilite bushing could probably be hammered with a smooth faced regular hammer, but I opted for wood just to be safe. Keep it level.

Seated Oilite bushing and new rear main crankshaft seal:


I applied a little white lithium grease around the rear main seal's main gasket.

Next, ACME's flywheel:

The orange wood bar clamp is to alleviate and hopefully eliminate the stress on the cam lock and the pin in the pulley up front, maintaining TDC.

Time to make TDC marks:

Bad pic, but it worked. e*clipse is right that, upon the flywheel being centered, it's one tooth to the right. I had to finesse it back and forth a little, noting the strain on the cam lock and trying to split the difference. I also measured the distance from center bolt hole to center bolt hole on the adapter plate - 132.55mm in my case, so 66.275mm is my particular midpoint.

Clutch plate goes on... somehow:

Dang, the clutch plate bolts went with the 22R. Eventually, I figured out that I needed clutch plate bolts M8x1.25x16, grade 10.9, Toyota clutch plate bolt upgrade. Woo hoo! Ace in town had them. Note: same unmentioned co. sells a grade 8.8 bolt upgrade pkg. as being 25% stronger than stock grade 5 bolts. I was told this isn't true... Whatever: thankfully, I got the better bolts.

Be sure to carefully center the clutch disc as you tighten the clutch plate. The clutch alignment tool I got worked well, and I just kept ensuring all was centered as I torqued down the clutch plate bolts (torqued to 14 lb ft).



Holy crap, here it goes!

Fitment continued

And the fit - I was reminded to keep everything loose as I slowly tightened transmission to adapter plate bolts, and did so, and everything shimmied its way together smoothly.



Pretty happy at this point, though there's a lot to do still.

The starter - I need to cut the tab out. Clearance at turbo is tight. I can't see the starter teeth at all.


Here's the clearance the little 1.4kW starter has:



Here's what I have to fill in with the leftover 22R tinplate:


Thinking - starter plate I cut out is straightforward enough. But here's what I'm not sure about. The plate I make to cover the bottom of the transmission - do I use the rest of the entire plate, positioning it between the adapter plate and the engine block? Or, do I just cut out a piece to cover the lower part of the flywheel and bolt it to the clutch bellhousing??

Finally (windy post, sorry) - seeing what the starter is doing and identifying TDC in the future:


See the little starter bell housing? Can I cut a 1" or so sized hole there to check starter alignment? Cap it with a tight rubber fitting (not unlike that in the Passat's transmission) to create a nice starter teeth inspection window? Why not do the same thing at my second TDC mark on about the opposite side of the clutch bellhousing so that I can see TDC?

Enjoying some momentum and grateful for all the help.

uhhh...no...the ALH intake manifold will point to the front of the truck...that's what I'm using.....I'm looking at your turbo drainback line....maybe you could use and ALH line from a 2001...it uses a fitting in the block and the line drops staight down to the fitting no crazy u turns to interfere with your starter....I may have an extra if you're interested

ALH manifold on 1Z

jimbote,
Yeah, you're right: an ALH manifold works fine. Glad someone's paying attention... Too focused on other stuff, plus I was thinking along e*clipse's line of thought with a larger 1.8 gas IM. It occurs to me that the ALH manifold with the cursed EGR in it will work well for the very last time I ever have to take the truck to the CA DMV D)... Maybe I'll just pull it off my Jetta for that glorious day. Maybe I should look under the hood of my Jetta every once in awhile to juxtapose things I should be familiar with... Got an extra oil return line? It's on the list to replace with a new one, and shorter, cleaner run that doesn't go near the starter would be nice.
Quantumrallysport is distracting me with their videos... stop it!