Turbo Oil Feed Line

Hello:

Oil leak diagnosed on compression fitting side of turbo oil feed line through inspection camera.

Is it this easy or am I missing something?

Replace new line, and use 2 new mounting clamps, 2 new copper crush washers on banjo bolt side, and tighten compression side.

Any advice on torque values, or seals on compression side or inserts on turbo mating area to suspect, or anything to remove to ease installation???

Good suggestions, experience, watch out for's would be appreciated

Thank you

In the photo below, you can see what things look like from the back side!


At the top center of the photo below, you can see that the line has been disconnected and has brown tape on the end of it. Also, notice the "fitting" it screws onto there in the center part of the Turbo. That fitting may be loose causing the oil leak. In fact, most of the time, when trying to remove the oil feed line, the fitting in the Turbo turns out rather than the "line fitting" ...........thus, you will destroy the line in the process of removing (in your case doesn't matter, since you are replacing it).



Unless there is a "water falls" of oil rolling out, this is what "I" would do.......slightly tighten the line to see if the leak stops!

Also, keep in mind, a small leak over a long period of time will look to be more than what it really is.

great pics, thanks.......
tried to tighten, already tight, loosened and retightened, same thing.
good tip about the fitting turning out

I guess I am concerned that I will create a problem, or not catch something to check out seeing it is in a blind area, and I noticed getting on it lately I am producing some smoke for about 2 seconds, but 165k on injectors also

thank you very much andybees

Since that line is very stiff and "snakes" around and thru a maze of coolant pipes, such as oil cooler pipes, heater pipes, a radiator pipe, etc., as well as some wiring, it "aint" going to be as easy as it appears.

I've never replaced one of those pipes. But, I'm thinking the old holding brackets are re-usable and probably don't come with a new line!

I'd put tape on the ends of the new line while putting it in place just to keep out debris. Also, plug the hole on the side of the oil fliter assembly until you are ready to install the banjo fitting........same reason, keep out debris!

Thanks again, I saw that there is a ss braided available after I ordered from idparts
but they've been good to me for a while now, happy to give them business, but sure would have been nice to have the flexibility vs rigidity

Hopefully this stops the leak, then I can plan some overdue maintenance stuff.

I just did this on a New Beetle and the hard line really does snake through there. I tied a rope to the end of the old one before I pulled it out so I could wiggle it back through the original path. It pulled from the front, and fed back from the front. Be patient -- not easy but it will go back into place. Make sure the mounting bracket (upper left in the photo abvove) is in place on the back side. It was missing on our car, which surely contributed to vibration of the hard line and eventual failure at the turbo end. The other thing to watch is the fitting described above. Good luck!

Thanks Tom B:

On mine, that's the support mount that was missing a bolt , as far as the one on thefacing the rear of the car, but actually the side of engine), that one is still in question, no visual, but i ordered two so i will install 2 new, just have to match the bolt to what was there, and the nut on back fastens to a stud which has to be there.

When you pulled the line, did you look at the failure???

Was it in the line??? or worn/deformed wear the compression mates to the threaded brass fitting to the housing of the turbo. Just curious???

No problems since I hope

microsoot said:

Thanks Tom B:

On mine, that's the support mount that was missing a bolt , as far as the one on thefacing the rear of the car, but actually the side of engine), that one is still in question, no visual, but i ordered two so i will install 2 new, just have to match the bolt to what was there, and the nut on back fastens to a stud which has to be there.

When you pulled the line, did you look at the failure???

Was it in the line??? or worn/deformed wear the compression mates to the threaded brass fitting to the housing of the turbo. Just curious???

No problems since I hope

Click to expand...

The previous owner(s) omitted the rear bracket on the driver's side end at some point in the past. If I recall correctly, the line fractured right at the flare of the compression fitting. It was not completely broken through but leaked pretty badly. The line broke when trying to loosen the two fasteners at the turbo housing, just as AndyBees described. If you've done some reading you know that getting a wrench in to hold the lower fitting while turning the upper one is a trick. It was fortunate for me that the turbo fitting backed out with the line fitting. Once everything was out I found the broken flare portion was wedged against the lower fitting. Also, make sure you don't overtighten. I've read the brass fitting (union?) can strip inside the turbo housing if too much force is applied.

Search "oil line" in this forum's thread titles for more info. The link below helped me:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=242349&highlight=punch


Everything is working great so far. Hope you don't have any problems.

Tom_B said:

If you've done some reading you know that getting a wrench in to hold the lower fitting while turning the upper one is a trick.

Click to expand...

One "slick tip" is to place a 7mm Allen wrench between the lower nut and cast exhaust side. The Allen wrench will hold the lower nut while you loosen the upper fitting. Works PERFECTLY!

Thanks:

The only surprise was the union fitting, for the feed-line, has a copper crush-washer between the union and turbo.

It's was available at my local VW dealer with the union, which is made in Switzerland.

It cost me $55.00.

It would have been nice to purchase just the crush-washer, as that union looks like they used nickel for it's properties vs corrosion and heat.

Oh well, the good-news is installed new union oil feed-pipe and crush-washer, (2)new crush-washers on banjo-bolt side, new support clamps and mounting hardware.
At least the job won't have to be done twice, and my oil leak is gone and my turbo is getting oil.