2006 tdi no power black smoke under 2000 rpm

Found the problem

The upper hose on the passenger side, going into the intercooler was leaking. It was obvious, really oily. Everything's back to normal.

Am I correct in assuming the tie wrap mod can be used as a temporary fix in place of the stop screw adjustment?
Thanks.

Be sure to check the cam timing with Vag ,low in time will do it,there shoud be a paper looking tag ob the cam belt cover on the passenger side,if still in place it will give the recommended timing,mine was*.5 degrees, Just from my experience.
Block both ends of the egr and forget it forever also.

1340 said:

Am I correct in assuming the tie wrap mod can be used as a temporary fix in place of the stop screw adjustment?
Thanks.

Click to expand...

If you use stainless steel tie wraps (I found mine at Harbor Freight), it is
practically a permanent fix.

tactdi said:

If you use stainless steel tie wraps (I found mine at Harbor Freight), it is
practically a permanent fix.

Click to expand...

Used those exact ties and they just broke after 20k or so. Not a big deal to do it again but was surprised. I thought about trying to adjust the screw but it sounds like it brakes most of the time so will live with the zip tie.

Another one bites the dust!...What next???


OK - First of all - fanstastic write up of the procedure to adjust the set screw. Thanks to all who contributed! (O.C.TDI, sixamskier, jsrmonster, DanG144)
I ran the measurements using vagcom and I was at a difference of 265 between high and low boost. I too am experiencing the unpredictable lack of power and black smoke. Clearly a candidate for the set screw adjustment.
So I read the entire thread as well as most of the ones referenced in this thread. I saw that there was a significant risk of snapping the flange as I try to loosen the lock nut prior to tightening the set crew...so I soaked it the best loosening oil i know of prior to trying - Kroil. It's worked in a zillion scenarios for me, but not this one.
As soon as I tried to loosen the lock nut - with the very lightest of torque - this happened: I BUSTED the set screw mount!

So - pardon the pun - now I'm screwed! As I understand it, I may have three options:

• Install a whole new turbo? (Too expensive for me right now)
• Make some sort of DIY mount for the set screw. (Need more info on how this is done.)
• Zip Tie method. (Can this approach be used now that I have broken this mount?)

I'm really flustered and could use your guidance on next steps. I would like to fix the problem as inexpensively as possible, but I would also like to make it as long term of a fix as possible.

I look forward to any guidance you can provide!

Thanks.
Ed

It has been a while, but I know there are guys that have put threads on here on their busted flange replacement stop screw rigs. It might take hours of searching to find them.

I seem to remember one guy working from the oil drain mount and putting a stop.

The flange was almost certainly heat cracked, and it was doomed - no care on your part would have helped. This is why no professional would suggest this adjustment without really educating the customer first. It really is not the mechanic's fault when this flange breaks off.

I would try the stainless steel tie wrap fix.

DanG144 said:

I would try the stainless steel tie wrap fix.

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Thanks Dan - I appreciate your guidance and experience. The zip tie mod sounds like that is a good approach. Could be a reasonable solution for a decent amount of time. I was not sure if my breaking the flange may have prevented my ability to do the zip tie mod. I'll need to look into it and pick up some steel zip ties from HF.

In the long term, is replacing the turbo "right" thing to do?

Thanks again.

The vane control inside your turbo is wearing out, in all probability, this is what causes the problem. I would run it as long as it controls boost adequately.

Eventually it will start having boost control issues on the highway. That is when I would buy a new turbo- and not until then.

DanG144 said:

The vane control inside your turbo is wearing out, in all probability, this is what causes the problem. I would run it as long as it controls boost adequately.

Eventually it will start having boost control issues on the highway. That is when I would buy a new turbo- and not until then.

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Great practical guidance - very much appreciated Dan!

Now I'm going to search for a decent how-to on the zip tie mod and try to get that done tonight - I've only had this car for around 6 months and it has driven "ok" but I can tell it not living up to it's potential. Looking forward to enjoying some peppiness after the zip tie mod (I hope!)

I'll post back after my mod and let everyone know my results.

Thanks.

Ed

Ran mine in 1.2ish turns today. I am a professional diesel tech by trade, I've never seen a 1mm adjustment make this BIG of a difference on any diesel in my life, pump rack travel etc included.

Did it on the ground, a little awkward, but zipped the oil drain tube off the turbo (weird that there's no washer or oring against the block at the bottom...), 10mm wrench popped the jam nut right loose (amazing... car was in PA it's whole life, 131k miles), long ball end 3mm allen ran the bolt right in. The worst damn part of the whole job is starting the inside drain tube bolt... Over all about an hour and half, half of that was trying to find a way to do it without removing the drain tube...

Runs like a new car! There was a VERY annoying surge on and off the cruise etc. while driving that is all gone, including the terrible smoke and fuel knock in first gear nearly all the time. I'm happy!

Will

Did the zip tie. much better, but question.

EdVinDiesel said:

I'll post back after my mod and let everyone know my results.
Thanks.
Ed

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OK - I just did the ziptie mod today - kind of. I installed the ziptie, and kind of winged it in terms of how tight. I went for a spin. AWESOME! feels like a totally different car. no hesitation, no black smoke (as far as i could tell - it was dark outside.)

THEN - i ran vagcom to see where the boost differential is. Mine came out to about 40.

Question - since it seems to be running well, should I leave the zip tie as is? Or should I re-do it looser and try to get the boost differential in the mid 100 range? Am I missing out on additional performance? fuel economy?

thanks for your guidance!
Ed

A boost differential of 40 is not of significance . Amazingly close for a zip tie.

I would leave it.

Thanks.

DanG144 said:

A boost differential of 40 is not of significance . Amazingly close for a zip tie.

I would leave it.

Click to expand...

Thanks again Dan. I'll let it ride. I thought I read somewhere that it should be somewhere between 80 and 200ish? I thought maybe it being so low might negatively impact something. Thanks for all your help. I'm hoping this harbor freight stainless steel ziptie lasts a few years!

Ed

Ah, now I see. You are talking about the basic settings test, I guess, that you do at 1400 rpm, right? If so give the readings for full boost and no boost in that test. The normal minimum expected differential is 80 for the basic settings test. I am guessing that you are getting some boost even at minimum because the tie wrap will not let it go to minimum boost.


I thought you were talking about the difference between requested boost and actual boost in MVB 11, when you log it driving around. During steady loaded conditions (cruise on flat highway) there will be a slight offset.

In most of Indiana hills are few and far between, but that is where not getting to low enough boost will hurt you - you will see an overboost at high rpm and high power. About the best you can do (with no hill) is to log MVB 11 during a full pedal acceleration in a lower gear. If you overboost too long, the car will go into limp mode after about 8 seconds.

If you start getting high power high rpm overboost limp mode issues, I would try another tie wrap. Otherwise, just run it.

The Land of Horizontal beauty!

You are right Dan - Hills are few and far between, especially where I live. Indiana is "The Land of Horizontal beauty!"

I'll try another tie wrap based on those settings - the 2nd time around should be much easier, now that I've figured out how to do it. I appreciate all your help!

Ed

EdVinDiesel said:

Thanks again Dan. I'll let it ride. I thought I read somewhere that it should be somewhere between 80 and 200ish? I thought maybe it being so low might negatively impact something. Thanks for all your help. I'm hoping this harbor freight stainless steel ziptie lasts a few years!
Ed

Click to expand...

I'll bump this old thread, I ran the boost control test in grp 11 on our Golf today and it has a difference of 71mbar, should be 80-200? I had 959-1030mbar.
Is there a greater difference if the stop screw is too short, causing the vanes to close too much? Or the other way around?
I'm not sure if I should adjust it or leave it like it is...

Edit: I adjusted the stop screw to get it within spec. What a bugger to get to! I made a thin jawed 10mm crows foot so I could hold the nut whilst turning the screw and vice versa. Maybe would have been better to make the crows foot of the ring end of the spanner to be able to turn in smaller incriments.
Removed the EGR cooler actuator for better access.

sorry, if i missed it or if this thread is old news, but does any of this apply to my 05 Passat BHW?

thanks