Antifreeze causing transmission issues

I have an 01 Jetta with the 1.9 TDI and 01M transmission. The transmission was working just fine (other than sometimes not going into reverse when warm).
The IP was leaking on the lower radiator hose. I replaced the gaskets on the IP and found someone with VAGCOM and set quantity adjuster at 3.0.
After about 30 miles of driving with no issues, I noticed where the fuel was leaking on the radiator hose prior to IP fix, there was what I will call an aneurism and I felt it best to change the hose. I drained the radiator into a new bucket, changed the hose, and poured the same antifreeze back in through the round (overflow?) bottle. (I didn't realize how tough it is to find G12 in local stores.)
Anyway, once all the AF was back in, I drove the car about 1/2 mile and the transmission downshifted as if I had "punched it". However, I was driving 35-40mph on an absolutely flat road. The transmission has never had any issues in forward gears.
I know these transmissions have issues, but it seems this was directly related to changing the radiator hose, specifically, draining and refilling coolant. Can someone please help?

That is about the speed where any load would downshift normally.try a little more speed and see what happens.

find your freind with vagcom again and have him scan for trouble codes. (engine and trans)

Unfortunately, I rebuilt the IP in Alabama, now the car is in Mississippi. No VagCom in my area. I guess I need to break down and get one.
As far as your comment hollowhead, I drove the car about 30 miles prior with no issues. Once I replaced the hose and test drove it, the car downshifted and the tach ran up to about 2.5 to 3 grand after about 1/2 mile. There was no load on the transmission when it downshifted.
I believe I read where the transmission is cooled by coolant, but not through transmission lines to the radiator. I am thinking coolant lines run to the transmission, if I'm right.
Again, it ran and drove fine until I replaced the lower hose. Guess I'll get VagCom and scan it myself.
If anyone else has an idea, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Likely purely coincidental.

Yes, there's the transmission cooler that utilizes coolant that is circulated out of the engine's coolant/cooling system, but no way a simple hose change is going to affect the cooler or its function (unless the hose change somehow dislodged a chunk of hose into the cooling system and possibly lodged in the trans cooler). I have zero experience with any of this.

For ****ts and giggles, disconnect the battery for a few minutes.

UhOh, that would be one heck of a coincidence. There was no piece of the hose, nor any plastic from where the hose connects, that broke off and got in the system. I was wondering if maybe the coolant when drained and re-added, may have somehow drained from the transmission cooler and not re-added there? I'm very new to VWs (although those happen to be my initials as well) but am pretty mechanically inclined. I'll get it figured out somehow. I was just hoping someone here knew of something I missed.

turbo, I'll try that when I get back home... That should be around the first of the month.

And while the battery is fully disconnected (both terminals) touch the +/- cables together. Only tool needed is 10mm socket, wrench or adjustable.

VWinMS said:

UhOh, that would be one heck of a coincidence. There was no piece of the hose, nor any plastic from where the hose connects, that broke off and got in the system. I was wondering if maybe the coolant when drained and re-added, may have somehow drained from the transmission cooler and not re-added there? I'm very new to VWs (although those happen to be my initials as well) but am pretty mechanically inclined. I'll get it figured out somehow. I was just hoping someone here knew of something I missed.

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I've seen some startling coincidences in my lifetime. I never rule out the possibility, otherwise continuing to view the problem as a single issue might have you chasing your tail.

The only thing I can think of is that you've got air trapped in your cooling system and that you have air trapped there at the trans cooler. If you had VCDS you could check to see what kind of trans temps you're getting, this would answer this question. Otherwise just approach as trapped air and bleed.

I'll pull the cables and touch them when I get home. I also believe I need to break down and get VAG-COM. Everything I read points to this being almost a necessity nowadays.
Ok, so, with a 2001 Jetta 1.9 TDI w/ auto trans, what ross-tech device do I need? Do I need the one with CAN? or will the simple ODBII-USB be all I need? Is there an advantage for the extra $100?
Thanks to all!!

The less expensive, USB-KII should suffice. The disadvantage is that it will only work with MKIV's or earlier.

Hmm...radiator hose that goes over to the driver side? Across in front of the transmission? Sure there isn't an electrical plug that got bumped when getting the hose out? Just asking.

Jason

SilverGhost said:

Hmm...radiator hose that goes over to the driver side? Across in front of the transmission? Sure there isn't an electrical plug that got bumped when getting the hose out? Just asking.

Jason

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By George I think he's onto something,

Thanks Jason,
I'll check that as well when I get home.... I just love these forums. As so many have said, TONS of information here....

JB05....I'm still a newbie... MKIV??
Only have the 1 Jetta..... a 2001 1.9 TDI w/ auto. Does that qualify as MKIV?

VWinMS said:

JB05....I'm still a newbie... MKIV??
Only have the 1 Jetta..... a 2001 1.9 TDI w/ auto. Does that qualify as MKIV?

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Yes, a 2001 would be an MKIV (diesel OR gasser).

I also think that Jason likely identified the source of the problem.

SilverGhost, I actually forgot that I saw some fluid on the top of the transmission (kinda clear) and I tried to stuff rags in there to soak it up. I'm back in MS now, but haven't had a chance to look at the wiring. I did however, notice now that the CEL is on. My generic ODBII code reader gave a code regarding a speed sensor. I can't remember the exact code, but it related to the sensor you have to remove the airbox and a couple more things to get to. Since I have to do that, I pressure washed the engine compartment the other day after washing the driveway. Hopefully, I'll get some time in the next few days to dive in. Once I cleared the code once, it came back, but now all I have is 3rd gear unless I use the shifter to drop it down further. I think I'm heading in the right direction anyway. Thanks again!

VWinMS said:

SilverGhost, I actually forgot that I saw some fluid on the top of the transmission (kinda clear) and I tried to stuff rags in there to soak it up. I'm back in MS now, but haven't had a chance to look at the wiring. I did however, notice now that the CEL is on. My generic ODBII code reader gave a code regarding a speed sensor. I can't remember the exact code, but it related to the sensor you have to remove the airbox and a couple more things to get to. Since I have to do that, I pressure washed the engine compartment the other day after washing the driveway. Hopefully, I'll get some time in the next few days to dive in. Once I cleared the code once, it came back, but now all I have is 3rd gear unless I use the shifter to drop it down further. I think I'm heading in the right direction anyway. Thanks again!

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Sounds like the speed sensor has been compromised. Maybe it got loosened up, hence the fluid? If that's the case then you should be able to tell that it's gear oil- smell. At any rate, there's an electrical connection to it right there. For more info on it:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=371718

Ok...So update. I FINALLY got a chance to look at this car. It appears the fluid on top of the transmission is coolant. I'm suspecting that plastic piece on the back (driver's side) of the engine just below the valve cover with several hoses on it might be cracked. I'm going to get the timing belt replaced when I can cough up the funds to do that so that might be the better time to tackle that. Anyway, I'm getting P0722 code with the ODBII tester. Using information from another thread on here, I pulled the connector and checked ohms between pins 1 & 2 on g68. Meter is LCD display and shot up to about 750 pretty quickly, but then slowed down. It got REALLY slow and I finally took the leads off at 780. I don't believe it was going to go much higher. If I left the leads on for about an hour, maybe it would have.... LOL
The connector looked clean and dry, but I'll spray it with WD-40 and blow it out before reassembly, clear the code and try again. I also checked all the fuses and all are good. I'm about to break down and order Vag Com from RossTech. It just doesn't seem worth it to work on the car without it.
By the way, for those reading this thread and don't realize it, the G68 connector will slide out toward the front of the car and that makes it quite easy to depress the plug to separate the connector.

According to the shipping email from Ross-Tech, my VagCom should be delivered sometime today
I cleared the code the other day after spraying with WD40 and then compressed air, the check engine light stayed off after I cranked the car and drove it. However, it is still only going in 3rd gear unless I manually put it down in 1st or 2nd. I then tried the transmission reset. Weird thing, after doing the reset, the CEL came back on and it's still showing the P0722 code with the ODBII scanner.
I'll scan again using VagCom this evening or tomorrow. Maybe I can get more useful information after that and will post the results.
Thanks again folks!

As promised....
Does this mean I have a loose wire somewhere since there are 2 codes? Or, is this just a bad sensor?
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 KA
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4836
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 79F7FE076338718AE7-0962
2 Faults Found:
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

you'll have to ignore the 00652 till the 00281 is fixed, as the computer uses the g68 sensor to determine whether or not to trigger 00652. Most likely you just need the G68 sensor replaced. For further confirmation you can drive it while monitoring g68 with vagcom in measuring blocks and see if you have a signal. Then ohm check the sensor or maybe ohm check the wires between the computer and the sensor.

But probably it would just be easier to slap a sensor in there. Its under the trans mount. Its best to change the bolts when you remove them. See link for position of sensor under the section titled 01m sensor locations.

http://kansascitytdi.com/o1m-faq/

Thanks Richard...
I've checked ohms on the sensor. On pins 1 and 2, LCD meter hit 750 pretty fast then creeped up slowly after that. It "might" have hit 800 at some point, but I wasn't going to wait that long.

I'm really close to loading this thing on a trailer and making a trip to Missouri. I need to have the timing belt replaced and I really want to try a new valve body with the upgraded valves. Up until this issue, the only issue the transmission gave was sometimes it would be hesitant to go into reverse. Putting it slowly to neutral, then drive, then back to reverse almost always fixed it.

As far as reading measuring blocks for the G68, I do now have VagCom. Which block should I look at and what should I be looking for while driving?

Thanks for all your input and help!!!

VWinMS said:

Up until this issue, the only issue the transmission gave was sometimes it would be hesitant to go into reverse. Putting it slowly to neutral, then drive, then back to reverse almost always fixed it.!!

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VB work wont fix that.

sensor can fail intermittently and ohm check fine while its "working". Just scroll through to find sensor reading in measuring blocks. There are two, one is sensor voltage which should be about 2.5 and the other shows kph. Dont pay too much attention to actual kph, just make sure it gets faster as you drive faster.

Clear trans codes then drive, while monitoring measuring block for kph. If your driving along and it works, and then quits and your code reoccurs then change the sensor. Take a good visual inspection for wiring problems.

Found 2 measuring blocks for speed. One was group 6 on Engine module. I'm guessing that's related to the speedometer because it worked just fine. The other was in the transmission module group 3. That one stayed on 0.0 and didn't budge regardless of vehicle speed. I've triple and quadruple checked the wiring and can't find any issue. One of the earlier replies stated wires on the bottom front of the transmission. I can't find any in that location. One wire goes to the oil filter housing and then there is a connector by the radiator drain, but those are all fine from what I can tell. I disconnected the plug for G62 on the top of the transmission and it appeared clean and dry, but I shot it with WD40 and then compressed air just to be sure. I'm still showing 0.0, I cleared the codes, and it hasn't come back yet, but I've only driven it about a mile. Previously, it would come back almost immediately. Looks like transmission bolts and a G62 are in my future. Doesn't look too hard, but I'm a bit concerned about torqueing the bolts correctly. I understand there are 2 or 3 different viewpoints, but I think it's tighten to a certain torque then another partial turn after that (1/4 or 1/2 I think).

Just do 74 ft lbs with no additional turns.

Most of the "green" grey bolts are torque to yield - which means they will stretch like taffy if you reuse them. To be fair I usually get a couple uses out of engine mount bolts but always give them a good once over. More than a few engine mount threads have been stripped or pulled.

Jason

thanks guys...
I went to the local VW stealer this afternoon. They want over $100 for the G68. I did get the 2 "self locking" bolts. They were almost $10 each! I guess I'm supposed to pay for all the buy backs they are having to deal with! Anyway, I'll go to ebay to find a G68 there. I'm certain they are WAY less expensive than that. If anyone has a reputable source, let me know. If I don't see a reply in a couple of days, I'll go ahead and order what I find and hope for the best. I also found that going to the Transmission module and Group 4, I could see that the car actually started in 2nd gear and would shift to 3rd once the engine got up to about 4k rpm.

$100 for a part that might fix a significant problem is too much?

Here's your best bet (stay away from ebay for critical parts unless you can be certain of the parts' quality):

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/