Heater/AC fan switch... source for new ones

Sorry if I missed this in the FAQs...... if it was there?

Does anyone know of a vendor (besides dealer) that carries the Heater/AC fan switch?

In recent months, I have had to repair/replace two of these switches(NB and Golf, ALHs)

In both cases, the metal tab that makes the connection on the 4 different speeds had broken loose from the plastic rotating disk. On one of them, there had been significant heat causing the assembly to distort enough that the AC buttom would not function properly (stayed in).

Those switches are obviously problematic. The repairs I have done may or may not last very long. And, junk yard supplies are slim as well as "used" with the same potential issues.

Also, the entire bottom part of the dash has to be removed, including the console, to access the Heat/AC controls....big job! But, in one case, was a good opportunity to repair the broken Glove Box hinge!

Bump for the gurus!

Thanks for posting this Andy. It helped immensely in troubleshooting my "no fan" situation.

Here is what he is talking about folks:

when you get the knob and the switch cover off (all three knobs have to come off). You will see this (shown in the zero fan speed position):


Note the "L" shaped piece that has broken out of the "rotor"

The normal position of the "L" is here (shown in the fan speed 3 position):



Note the broken plastic tab on the rotor that the clip on the "L" engages.

Here is how I fixed mine:



I didn't have a lot of time so I just waited about 15 minutes with my shop light sitting near the JB weld and then put everything back together. I just drove to CO over the weekend and the switch is working perfectly.

My 10 year old switch had 235K miles on it. The repair cost me $0. I am very happy.

Thanks for the help guys!!

Searched "blower" and came across this post, fixed me right up!

Waiting on epoxy to cure right now!

Hey, RunonBeer, back in March, I missed your follow-up post to this Thread.

Those are excellent photos and reflect exactly what I have been discussing here and in other Threads.

In one instance, the JB Weld did not hold....... I had to take everything back out and re-do by scuffing parts with Dremel using a very small bit, then applied the JB Weld!

Also, Warning, that little "L" shaped thingy can fall out and get lost... under console, in the carpet, etc. It can also get cock-eyed and short out things cause the plastic to melt and distort...... screws up the AC in and out button sleeve!

So, the first indication you have an on the dash switch issue would be a good time to investigate and repair!

Thank you for posting these pic's I was able to fix mine thanks to you, Jim.

Yeah, this Thread should be placed in the Stickys!

JB Weld

york77777 said:

Its funny this thread should make a re-appearance just as mine fails again. Some time ago I did the repair as shown, however it appears my superglue has failed/cracked and the metal L has come loose again (hence no fan this morning on the freezing drive into work). Its quite an annoying design and far too difficult to access.

Click to expand...

The little metal strip gets hot...........JB Weld withstands heat pretty darn good. Give it a try!

The break in the original piece is because of the plastic becoming brittle due to the heat.....and bad design, in my opinion!

You're correct in your assessment, Andy, but what is there is cheap to produce and works for a while. That allows for big profit margins, and those $$$ make marketing types, bean counters, and corporate mucky-mucks with big stock option packages really happy.

Guys, I really don't think the big Whigs at VW sit around and scheme about how to make the fan switches fail.

Mine has gotten so warm as to melt the retaining area of the black plastic where it attaches to. Wife had a little smoke cloud as she so gently described coming from the switch before she was able to turn the switch to the 'off ' position. Damage already done.
Does anyone know of a replacement from one of our other vw's that will work?

I think the Beetle switch is beetle specific. Andy knows best. I've only ever done it on a G/J

NB vs the Jetta/Golf

runonbeer said:

I think the Beetle switch is beetle specific. Andy knows best. I've only ever done it on a G/J

Click to expand...

Yeah, that's pretty much right. The outer part of the switch components are curved to match the NB dash. So, the depth of the control base varies fromt the Golf/Jetta.

Thanks AndyBees and runonbeer, I took out the switch in my son's 99.5 and found exactly what runonbeer had in the first pic.

Good to hear it. 30K later and my switch is still working fine.

301K. JB weld is still holding my switch together. 66K on the repair.

I've got one in the shop right now that seems like it needs the same fix. Just got me thinking about this

I know that this is an old thread, but I have a fan that only runs at high speed and I am wondering what taking the 2-wire plug off of the heater motor tells you: I get various voltages ( 7, 8, 9,) at lower fan speed settings and then finally 12 volts at high speed. This seems to indicate that the switch and the resistor a working correctly? THANKS, ... Dan

Typically a fan that only works on high speed is a bad resistor bank, blown fuse. Not always but usually. Thiis is especially true if the AC light and system only works on lower speeds, and not on high speed. Have you inspected the resistor bank?

Also note that the resistor bank thermal fuse usually does not blow until the fan gets draggy - pulling high current and providing low cooling flow. So usually you need to work on the fan as well as the resistor bank.

I have had to fix some of these switches as well, for the same reasons, and using the same methods as mentioned here.

While they are problematic, they can usually be fixed with just a bit of labor and epoxy. It could be worse.

Before I would buy a new switch, if I could not repair what I had, I would probably go with a set of manual switches. One that turned on the AC and turned on the fan, then individual switches that bypassed the different speed resistors. If all were bypassed you would be in FAST, if none were bypassed you would be in slow.

Kludgy but simple and reliable.

Part number for Beetle "Fresh air heater control" 1C0820045E

Part number for G/J 1J0 820 045F

That's for the whole box with all three control knobs. Posting in case someone has one that has melted from the "L" shorting out and melting everything.

In case anyone is interested, I just installed a nb heater control in to a mk 4 jetta. The only actual difference is the ac and recirc buttons. The jetta buttons are square on the ends, the nb are radiused. Used the knobs from the jetta (different length)with the bezel behind them. On the trim bezel, there is a lip around the opening for the ac and recirc buttons, had to remove the lip as it would push the buttons. Fan works now.

Just wanted to mark this thread with directions on how to fix broken switch/ THANK YOU!!!!

how do you get the switch removed from the car to work on it, I have found forums that mention write-ups on how to do this but have not been able to find them.

You don't actually have to remove the switch to fix it. Just pull the knobs straight off.

330K on my switch fix. No more heat though, blend door foam is all gone. And recently when I first turn on the heat it gets all steamy in the cabin like an Alice Cooper concert. And it smells like pancake syrup. I'm gonna be pulling the dash out in the next few weeks

Just had to do it on my wife's car last year. Too soon!!! I hope none of my customers ever ask me to replace a heater core.

And more on-topic, I've never had a switch failure like this come through the shop. Only this one time on my own car. Weird.

how do you remove the knobs then, I pull on them and they don't seem to even wiggle, I don't want to break them. Is there a trick or just more force, or something else that I have to remove first? Also I should note this is on a 2000 Jetta just to make sure that we aren't talking about a different vehicle.

They just pull straight out.

I just did this fix & it worked very well. Much thanks to the OP for taking the time and patience to figure this out.
On another note, after reassembling, my heater and fan knobs don't illuminate. I'm guessing I may have knocked out the led bulb. Is this little led bulb replaceable? it's in the middle of the fan switch knob hole, right?

Thanks

It's not an led light but the bulb is 2721 & replaceable. You need a piece of tubing to pull the old one out and put a new bulb in.

Wingnut's how to is here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=76513

volmaniac said:

It's not an led light but the bulb is 2721 & replaceable. You need a piece of tubing to pull the old one out and put a new bulb in.

Wingnut's how to is here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=76513

Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks!

So what function does this tab have? After I re-inserted my tab, it still slides against the C-curved copper piece, is this right? The pictures posted don't show that that tab should stretch that far over the copper curved piece. BUt if it doesn't....what does it do.....
I jb-welded it back in place last night, tested it this morning (harnesses plugged back in w/ the tab control attached only) and still got no fans to blow. I tested the wires going into the resistor pack and got no voltage on any wires, i tested the c-curved copper piece and did find 12v on this. I guess i still don't understand what the tab is doing. I dont see where it's completing a circuit or anything. Explanation or more pictures would help immensely.

Sometimes you just have to look at it long enough to know when you're being an idiot. L tab goes UNDERNEATH the copper piece to complete the circuit with the other pieces. DOH
Fixed the problem btw, just have to fix what i've mangled to death from my bear hands.